Automatics with gears?

hey youre in sonora correct (Im on ca-mustangs), where did you get yours installed? i need to take my GT and get the rear end rebuilt, the moan on takeoffs are coming back after they went away for about a month since i replaced the rear rotors, so im gonna get the entire rear rebuilt with gears, the install+rebuild kit, and new axle bearings.

Kaiser's Kustoms in Sonora. They're known for 4WD work but the guy installed my gears and master bearing set for 325 out the door. He also replaced a leaky axle seal for the cost of the seal while he was in there... Been lovin' every minute of it since...
 
Ok I'm about to place an order for Motive Performance Plus 4.10 Gears; I could always drive 75 on the highway instead of 80 to keep it below 3,000RPM. Actual would running the car at 3,000RPM hurt it over a period of time? Should I also get the Master Bearing Kit?
 
Usually with the bearing kits, seals, etc on the rear installs its best just to leave it to the installer to determine how much needs replacing and source the parts himself. He makes money off those parts in addition to his labor fees and still gets the parts for less than you can even after he marks them up.
 
i would recommend 3.73's if you are getting a blower in the future. traction in 1st gear will be non-existant with 4.10's and a blower unless you have an extremely stout rear suspension and some wide sticky tires. 3.73's plus a higher stall convertor will give you good launches with a modest rear setup, get rid of the big 2nd gear drop in rpm, yet still allow decent cruising.
 
My 96 TBird with a 4R70W auto and it had 3.27's from the factory, I have tried 3.55s, 3.73's and 4.30's in it. I currently have 4.30's and I get 20 MPG in the city and 26 MPG on the highway. If it is a N/A car, get 4.10's or more gear( Don't fear the gear ), if you plan on a SC it is a little different. It you run a Roots or Twin Screw, you won't want anything more than 3.73's, if it is Centrifugal, you can run 4.10's and perhaps 4.30's.