I never cleared any codes ever so if that is necessary in order for the car to not do what it was doing even if you fix the issue LOL then I guess I will do that. There has been no small pump on this car since 2002 and it has been tuned at two different tuners over the yearsSo have you cleared the ECU and driven the car around? That will allow any old issues to be removed and any new ones to populate.
The OBD-I’s are first in first out so you have to fix what they show, clear the ECU, drive the car and then pull codes. Rinse and repeat until all codes are cleared that can be cleared i.e. any deleted smog equipment codes.
i'm about to pull codes and see what I get and then if the ones I fixed are still present i will clear them. I have never cleared them before so I will read up on how to do so.(O) = Key On Engine Off test
(R) = Key On Engine Running test
(M) = Memory code
117 - (O,M) ECT sensor is/was low or grounded – ECT
511 - (O) No power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (processor)
564 - (O) Fan Control (FC) circuit failure – A/C and Fan Circuits
So have you checked fuel pressure and checked for fuel in the FPR vacuum line?
Okay cool yeah just cleared the codes using a different method but I'm going to go back home I'll be home in a few minutes and I will perform the test again. I do know though I did not get a it would not do the cylinder balance test but I did get a cold 111 system pass during the k e o r.To reset the ECU just remove the ground off the battery, turn on the headlight switch (will use up any residual power), let it sit for 10 min, and then reconnect the ground on the battery.
Not really sure what you want me to enlighten you on but if you get the code with the Key On Engine Off then its the (O), if you get the code with the Key On Engine Running then its the (R). A Memory code (M) or as some call it a Continuous Memory code (CM) is just that, a code that is stored in continuous memory. The only way to clear the code is to reset the ECU.
The 511 code is generated when you are performing the Key On Engine Off testing. Quick Google search says that is from the chip being installed so no worries there.
Typically driving it around long enough for the motor to get up to operating temperature will do it. Get back to the garage and perform the KOEO tests and then the KOER tests and see what you get.
Also going to try one of my other IAC as this one here definitely seems to be malfunctioningTo reset the ECU just remove the ground off the battery, turn on the headlight switch (will use up any residual power), let it sit for 10 min, and then reconnect the ground on the battery.
Not really sure what you want me to enlighten you on but if you get the code with the Key On Engine Off then its the (O), if you get the code with the Key On Engine Running then its the (R). A Memory code (M) or as some call it a Continuous Memory code (CM) is just that, a code that is stored in continuous memory. The only way to clear the code is to reset the ECU.
The 511 code is generated when you are performing the Key On Engine Off testing. Quick Google search says that is from the chip being installed so no worries there.
Typically driving it around long enough for the motor to get up to operating temperature will do it. Get back to the garage and perform the KOEO tests and then the KOER tests and see what you get.
ok just got back and few questions.....To reset the ECU just remove the ground off the battery, turn on the headlight switch (will use up any residual power), let it sit for 10 min, and then reconnect the ground on the battery.
Not really sure what you want me to enlighten you on but if you get the code with the Key On Engine Off then its the (O), if you get the code with the Key On Engine Running then its the (R). A Memory code (M) or as some call it a Continuous Memory code (CM) is just that, a code that is stored in continuous memory. The only way to clear the code is to reset the ECU.
The 511 code is generated when you are performing the Key On Engine Off testing. Quick Google search says that is from the chip being installed so no worries there.
Typically driving it around long enough for the motor to get up to operating temperature will do it. Get back to the garage and perform the KOEO tests and then the KOER tests and see what you get.
I know this is a lot for you to read man lol but whenever you get time I always appreicate those who take the time. So all seems to be ok with all of the tests and I did move the idle back where it was.To reset the ECU just remove the ground off the battery, turn on the headlight switch (will use up any residual power), let it sit for 10 min, and then reconnect the ground on the battery.
Not really sure what you want me to enlighten you on but if you get the code with the Key On Engine Off then its the (O), if you get the code with the Key On Engine Running then its the (R). A Memory code (M) or as some call it a Continuous Memory code (CM) is just that, a code that is stored in continuous memory. The only way to clear the code is to reset the ECU.
The 511 code is generated when you are performing the Key On Engine Off testing. Quick Google search says that is from the chip being installed so no worries there.
Typically driving it around long enough for the motor to get up to operating temperature will do it. Get back to the garage and perform the KOEO tests and then the KOER tests and see what you get.
whenever you get time, re read lolTake it back to the tuner.
Do you think the engine off and engine running test in the moment when it does its thing will reveal a potential code?Take it back to the tuner.
ok I guess when you can get a car to act up and do what it's doing that you are trying to remedy it will not show a code at that moment and then disappear lol.For me you have cleared the codes. You should always run the codes with the motor up to temp and when you have done this the only one present is the chip being installed.
Take it to the tuner and get it on a dyno.
Now my car is not like the fox is where the TFI is mounted on the distributor or a part of the distributor period it is however on the inside fender well right where the cold air intake is.The only other thing I can think of is remote mounting the TFI. I did this and several others here have as well with great results.
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Also with that TFI module aren't they supposed to either work or don't work?Now my car is not like the fox is where the TFI is mounted on the distributor or a part of the distributor period it is however on the inside fender well right where the cold air intake is.
Where have y'all moved it if that's what you mean moved it from that spot?
Okay cool what do you think about the distributors from AutoZone? Even if I do at 3:31 I will be able to use that distributor I bought one but it was going to take it back. Didn't necessarily want to try it but I feel good since I'm going to do another motor eventually that if I use it and it doesn't solve the problem I will have one to go in the other car, or 331 for this one?Man, I keep forgetting this is a 1994/1995 car that Ford remote mounted the TFI due to the overheating issues with the Foxbody cars.
TFI modules are finicky. For the most part they either work or do not. I have personally had an issue with an intermittent one on my old ‘85 Turbo Coupe. Thought it was fuel related and finally just swapped the distributor with a known good one and problem went away. Replaced the TFI on the original and stuck that back in and zero problems. Sold it that way.
There is a tester and you will need a 9V battery.
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Yeah I'm going to look around and see who rebuilds them I've had people do it in the past but they are no longer here. I wonder if there's a service to actually send to your distributor off to get it done or I need to check with some service places to see about doing that if I'm going to go that route of getting a motorcraf, if I can find any.Garbage like most other aftermarket stock replacements. Try to find a Motorcraft PIP module and rebuild your stock dizzy. They are not common but can be found.
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