I never cleared any codes ever so if that is necessary in order for the car to not do what it was doing even if you fix the issue LOL then I guess I will do that. There has been no small pump on this car since 2002 and it has been tuned at two different tuners over the years
Bad ECT sensor causing this problem or what???
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i'm about to pull codes and see what I get and then if the ones I fixed are still present i will clear them. I have never cleared them before so I will read up on how to do so.
few questions-
Do the codes not clear themselves if the problem was fixed and why not, well i guess you answered that as to the Obd 1 being the first in and first out so i guess they didn't get that process right.
511 no power to pcm pin 1 or bad pcm processor-
Does that mean the pcm could function in all other areas but in that one instance it is a problem with that pin only or the entire pcm is bad if the processor is bad lol?
you have those listed as O, R, and M. Like I said not sure or never seen it listed as that/those so you can further enlighten me on that aspect of it too.
after clearing the codes and drive the car around how many miles approx. is sufficient for it to relearn?
To reset the ECU just remove the ground off the battery, turn on the headlight switch (will use up any residual power), let it sit for 10 min, and then reconnect the ground on the battery.
Not really sure what you want me to enlighten you on but if you get the code with the Key On Engine Off then its the (O), if you get the code with the Key On Engine Running then its the (R). A Memory code (M) or as some call it a Continuous Memory code (CM) is just that, a code that is stored in continuous memory. The only way to clear the code is to reset the ECU.
The 511 code is generated when you are performing the Key On Engine Off testing. Quick Google search says that is from the chip being installed so no worries there.
Typically driving it around long enough for the motor to get up to operating temperature will do it. Get back to the garage and perform the KOEO tests and then the KOER tests and see what you get.
Not really sure what you want me to enlighten you on but if you get the code with the Key On Engine Off then its the (O), if you get the code with the Key On Engine Running then its the (R). A Memory code (M) or as some call it a Continuous Memory code (CM) is just that, a code that is stored in continuous memory. The only way to clear the code is to reset the ECU.
The 511 code is generated when you are performing the Key On Engine Off testing. Quick Google search says that is from the chip being installed so no worries there.
Typically driving it around long enough for the motor to get up to operating temperature will do it. Get back to the garage and perform the KOEO tests and then the KOER tests and see what you get.
Okay cool yeah just cleared the codes using a different method but I'm going to go back home I'll be home in a few minutes and I will perform the test again. I do know though I did not get a it would not do the cylinder balance test but I did get a cold 111 system pass during the k e o r.
Also trying to do the k e o r's it would only flash for and not eight and after it flashed at 4:00 for a few seconds after it will just go ahead and idle not a few seconds, but after the four it idled up around 2000 and it just stayed idle up so I don't know what that was about after a minute and a half or so I hit the gas and it started to drop back down at around 1,000 and then show the 511..
The first time I did the test with the engine cold and I got code 538 which seemed to be I did not perform the test right k e o r. With the k o e o test I got the same codes as I got with the cold engine and warm engine.
Also going to try one of my other IAC as this one here definitely seems to be malfunctioning
ok just got back and few questions.....
Do you have to perform the tests with a warm engine? Just curious as I read earlier where you want to and I did it before the fact cold. I then did it again after warming it up and the only differences I got was during the koer the cold got a 116 which is ECT sensor something but all related to the codes 113,117 in the manual out of range or below a certain temp or something. When the car was warm I got a 111 system pass so I figured that was no biggie but that might seem that indeed the car needs to be warmed up.
I read somewhere where both fans are supposed to come on cycle at the start of the koeo test, is that so? I only heard one with mine and sounds like the high speed. IIRC though in the past and over the years I think I just heard one fan; can't totally remember.
at the start of the koer test I am only getting 4 flashes and not 8
still not getting a cylinder balance test to be performed and I even made sure to tap the throttle right after the 111 test. Maybe because the idle hung for that period of time before giving the code that's outside of the range to do the cylinder balance but I didn't get code 538 that's for something along the lines of invalid cylinder balance test due to throttle movement.
I'm going to reset the idle and put it back to where it was prior to the other day and that should be where it was when the tune was done. I will see if that solves the IAC situation during the test of rasing to 1500-2k and staying there until I hit the throttle.
other than that I got a code 111 during the koer test. The throttle raised for a while then came back down and presented 111.
Also 111 during the koeo test after the 511 and 564 which are nothing. That 111 system pass was during the CM process so good on that front?
On another forum this guy mentioned this about the CM or KAM process and getting code 15, then code 15 disappearing, unless that's fox related?
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I know this is a lot for you to read man lol but whenever you get time I always appreicate those who take the time. So all seems to be ok with all of the tests and I did move the idle back where it was.
I'm guessing now I should be good to just go back to the tuner and see what he can try and change and especially since the Ect situation that was present in January when i primarily took the car to him to see if he could get more low end torque/hp since I made the changes to LT's and the catback vs the flowmasters and cleaned a few other things up from the previous tune in 2014. Someone mentioned in another thread I read up on just googling the same situations, similiar ones and they mentioned the hot start fuel tables might need changing. Maybe getting too much fuel in that situation?
I wasn't even thinking at the time about the situation that I have in summer months with it or I would have let him try and address it then.hav
Thinking also maybe a new distributor and might actually take the one I bought from autozone with me when I go, ( I was planning on returning everything I bought since my things checked out. Not sure if the dizzy under the situations I am having and at th etime present rather it will throw a code if it's the Pip or the tfi module also rather it will throw a code if I do one right when it acts up and cuts off upon restart?
It's crazy how it will start up fine and idle for 20 secs or better, actually idled a few minutes earlier after I returned from the drive and I drove it hard and strong and temp got up to about 207. Pulled in the garage, shut her off, re started and it idled fine for 2 minutes or better, then cut off. While it was running it idled maybe not as high as it should/would normally at 1k but still was about 850-900 and I could hear the difference in the tone of it. Almost like a kind of restriction or maybe too much fuel, something being slightly disturbed that will eventually make it cut off. Crazy also how this is a non issue in any other season......
Do you think the engine off and engine running test in the moment when it does its thing will reveal a potential code?
For me you have cleared the codes. You should always run the codes with the motor up to temp and when you have done this the only one present is the chip being installed.
Take it to the tuner and get it on a dyno.
Take it to the tuner and get it on a dyno.
ok I guess when you can get a car to act up and do what it's doing that you are trying to remedy it will not show a code at that moment and then disappear lol.
I've heard over the years of folks in general and not necessarily mustang guys but taking their car to the dealer or service center and they can't find anything wrong with it. Then they say we need you to get the car to act up so we can diagnose it lol.
I'm also thinking of all the other possibilities that it potentially could be since I'll be driving 2 hrs there. I want to have some parts on hand in case he wants to try another if he thinks it might be something that's worth a shot to try after he's made his changes or what have you. As for the injectors that I bought used in around 2004-5 they were used when I bought them and at the time don't remember how used but I can't recall them looking crazy. I'm not even sure it would be a case of the injectors would only present this issue during the summer months, I wouldn't think so and would think if they were faulty to the point of doing what it's doing then in other months it should do something crazy sometimes as well. Sure they might could use cleaning and checking and tbh I if I were going to mess with them I'd just buy new but I know at some point I'll do a stroker 331 more than likely, and especially if I build local. I know 42's should suffice for that and I'd need the meter to be calibrated if I go the same route of tuning. If I go with a company a few hours away I might take the car to them and do a turn key job with a Holley I believe they use or similiar and not have to worry about any issues arising and if so I think they offer remote tuning.
But anyway just thinks I'm pondering but I am in the next month or so going to get it back to the tuner. I just want to be prepared with a few parts in case.
The only other thing I can think of is remote mounting the TFI. I did this and several others here have as well with great results.
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Now my car is not like the fox is where the TFI is mounted on the distributor or a part of the distributor period it is however on the inside fender well right where the cold air intake is.
Where have y'all moved it if that's what you mean moved it from that spot?
Man, I keep forgetting this is a 1994/1995 car that Ford remote mounted the TFI due to the overheating issues with the Foxbody cars.
TFI modules are finicky. For the most part they either work or do not. I have personally had an issue with an intermittent one on my old ‘85 Turbo Coupe. Thought it was fuel related and finally just swapped the distributor with a known good one and problem went away. Replaced the TFI on the original and stuck that back in and zero problems. Sold it that way.
There is a tester and you will need a 9V battery.
TFI modules are finicky. For the most part they either work or do not. I have personally had an issue with an intermittent one on my old ‘85 Turbo Coupe. Thought it was fuel related and finally just swapped the distributor with a known good one and problem went away. Replaced the TFI on the original and stuck that back in and zero problems. Sold it that way.
There is a tester and you will need a 9V battery.
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Okay cool what do you think about the distributors from AutoZone? Even if I do at 3:31 I will be able to use that distributor I bought one but it was going to take it back. Didn't necessarily want to try it but I feel good since I'm going to do another motor eventually that if I use it and it doesn't solve the problem I will have one to go in the other car, or 331 for this one?Man, I keep forgetting this is a 1994/1995 car that Ford remote mounted the TFI due to the overheating issues with the Foxbody cars.
TFI modules are finicky. For the most part they either work or do not. I have personally had an issue with an intermittent one on my old ‘85 Turbo Coupe. Thought it was fuel related and finally just swapped the distributor with a known good one and problem went away. Replaced the TFI on the original and stuck that back in and zero problems. Sold it that way.
There is a tester and you will need a 9V battery.
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Garbage like most other aftermarket stock replacements. Try to find a Motorcraft PIP module and rebuild your stock dizzy. They are not common but can be found.
Yeah I'm going to look around and see who rebuilds them I've had people do it in the past but they are no longer here. I wonder if there's a service to actually send to your distributor off to get it done or I need to check with some service places to see about doing that if I'm going to go that route of getting a motorcraf, if I can find any.
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