Bad ECT sensor causing this problem or what???

 
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Preciate it. Now I got to see if either they or I can find a motorcraft pip.

I've been reading on a lot of guys do actually go with parts stores distributors I guess and I guess a lot of guys also who don't really drive their cars a whole lot and stuff so but I guess there's a mix-up consensus where others may prefer to stick with the stock OEM stuff only and others just get what they can with a good warranty
 
also have in my notes for some time the performance distributors hot forest aluminum LMR $239 and Jegs SSR pro series 228 or 206.

When did you build your 347? Was it before they got better with the oil burning issues and such? If I go with a company like Prestige whom I like their builds start at a 347. I will email Doug to ask if they can do a 331 though.
 
just read this in parenthesis:

(Sorry, no Ford, John Deere, or non-British late model electronics).
 
reading a post now where someone speaks of Cardone being an oem reman'd piece. I'm seeing new ones at Rock auto and summit on a quick google search for 66 bucks. Still reading the post to see what other said when they chimed in.

one guy also said he has had a lot of success with Autoline dizzy's as well but they aren't cheap. I don't mind spending for piece of mind and especially when and if there's not a lot of good things to feel safe about.....
 
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It would literally take you an hour to swap the PIP once you remove the dizzy.
i need a video to see how to as I've had 2 diff guys do it and I saw what they were doing, did somewhat but still would need a video to reference and also to know how and checking the bearings, ect for play, ect. Plus being able to find a motorcraft pip lol....
 

Thanks I'll check out
Here is a nice distributor original oem Ford Motorcraft
Mine's a 94
 
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forgot to mention that during one of the koer tests the other day the car backfired once and it might've been while the rpm's were raised. Not sure what that was about......

thoughts?
 
It would literally take you an hour to swap the PIP once you remove the dizzy.
If the fuel pressure regulator is bad or could it be bad without there being a smell of fuel when you fill the vacuum line off? Or even if it's not bad could it be faulty and be causing in the issue I'm experiencing when heart and go to start the car and the idling? I'm thinking for everything that I've read on the fuel pressure regulator it would seem to present other problems as well and idling crazy or whatever maybe more times than what I'm having.

Read another thread where are guys car would only have an issue if it's sat for about 20 minutes after he came out of the store. If he stopped for a few minutes and went to crank it it would crank fine but if it's that for about 20 minutes or so it would not want to start. Mine is starting and idling for about 20 seconds sometimes longer but then at some point if I have not taken off it will cut off.

His ended up being the TPS sensor I'm going to check my sensor again but I swear when I checked it last week it was fine when I checked the voltage from one all the way to five
 
When the car dies does everything go out i.e. it looses 12V? If that is the case then you need to check the following wires::
12V+
Battery to starter solenoid
Starter solenoid to starter

12V-
Battery to chassis ground
Battery to block ground

There is also a ground for the ECU behind the stock battery location that can cause issues as well (courtesy of jrichker):

1719348448709.png


Basically you could be having a power wire problem that is causing the car to loose 12V and then when things cool off the continuity comes back just enough to start and/or run. This will also make the car hard to start when hot. A very good way to determine the health of the wires is to do a voltage drop test. Good video on this here:


View: https://youtu.be/qPpHRuddhh4?si=kMHdtKB_DRzXKMVg
 
When the car dies does everything go out i.e. it looses 12V? If that is the case then you need to check the following wires::
12V+
Battery to starter solenoid
Starter solenoid to starter

12V-
Battery to chassis ground
Battery to block ground

There is also a ground for the ECU behind the stock battery location that can cause issues as well (courtesy of jrichker):

1719348448709.png


Basically you could be having a power wire problem that is causing the car to loose 12V and then when things cool off the continuity comes back just enough to start and/or run. This will also make the car hard to start when hot. A very good way to determine the health of the wires is to do a voltage drop test. Good video on this here:


View: https://youtu.be/qPpHRuddhh4?si=kMHdtKB_DRzXKMVg

I do not think everything is going out when it does that as I can recall but next time I drive it I will check; I'm pretty sure things are still on when it dies matter of fact the lights on the instrument cluster , ect.

and the thing is it's not a hard to start issue it will start right up though sounds a little flooded and idle from 20 secs sometimes a few minutes if I sit right there before it cuts off. When I take off and get going it's fine and will not cut off unless I have only drove like 35 mph and only for some feet to the next light.
 
Can you monitor your fuel pressure the whole time or just a gauge under the hood? Sorry if I missed that.
Just a gauge under the hood. I do know it holds good fuel pressure when the car when I turn it off. And yeah I'm not sure if it would be an issue where only in hot weather summertime the fuel pressure regulator would do something funky as to the heat or startup idling at a standstill.

I mean I have it on the list to get it back to the tuner as well for a startup fuel tables reading up some stuff earlier in relation to startup fuel tables, hot starts and ECT temperature related. So start up fuel tables may need to be trimmed when the outside temperature is a certain temperature or something like that I mean that could be an issue as well.

But yeah just trying to think about the possibilities of some other things it could be as well that's why I mentioned the fuel pressure regulator when reading someone's post earlier maybe on another form or something. Even in the injectors even if it was a leaky injector which I when I had the problem when the engine was in the other car, my erect 95 gt, I inspected the injectors and everything for leaking and I concluded that they were not leaking even though they are over 20 years old. So yeah with the things that it might be a possibility of I don't know why if it's something like a fuel pressure regulator, or injectors, or the fuel pump, even the TPS sensor that I read someone change theirs I think it was on a fox but that's stopped there issues but it wasn't necessarily like mine per se but it was an issue where if he went in the store after 20 minutes it would want to not crank at all. So yeah I don't know why those things would if it was one of those, why would they only act up in summertime
 
Can you monitor your fuel pressure the whole time or just a gauge under the hood? Sorry if I missed that.
I also sent you a PM with my number in case you wanted to talk at some point maybe verbalize things it might be a little easier to ask some questions and kind of get a better understanding and process of elimination we might be able to figure this thing out LOL
 
Can you monitor your fuel pressure the whole time or just a gauge under the hood? Sorry if I missed that.
I also when the engine was in the other car and during the same thing tried on the stock fuel pressure regulator and I'm trying to remember if I did it in the summertime trying to diagnose this issue or maybe it was something else the car was doing. But that did not make a difference..
Also want to reiterate I don't smell any fuel when I take the vacuum line off the regulator