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Bad Hub? (video)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Griswald
  • Start date Start date May 28, 2011

Griswald

Member
Mar 15, 2010
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May 28, 2011
#1
  • May 28, 2011
  • #1
I wasn't sure where to post this, being an 89, but with sn95 spindles. Anyways, I just put these on, supposedly they were rebuilt/refurbished, but I discovered this noise when checking the caliper bracket clearance. I bolted everything up, drove for about 2 miles, and it's very audible in the car, even over the exhaust. This is only on passenger side. Driver side makes no noise when spun.

In the videos, the lug nuts are tight, and you have to turn the volume up a lot.

YouTube - ‪SN95 hub noise 1‬‏

YouTube - ‪SN95 hub noise 2‬‏
 

stang&2Birds

Founding Member
May 4, 2000
2,091
5
58
New England. :-) CT/MA
May 28, 2011
#2
  • May 28, 2011
  • #2
Griswald said:
supposedly they were rebuilt/refurbished
Click to expand...
No such thing for sn95 hubs. That alone makes me say be safe/smart and throw those POS hubs in the trash - where they belong.

Otherwise, it's hard to tell from the video. But, the hubs/noises do sound suspicious.

BTW, for hubs, do the right thing, buy FORD OEM parts - ONLY! Otherwise, unless you're planning on selling/junking the car in a short time, you're likely wasting your money. Especially the front hubs take a lot of heat and abuse on a Fox/sn95.


BTW, even for the rear hubs on cars, cheap hubs are often not worth the money for even the box they are in. My FWD Olds needed a new rear hub. I got some cheapos, and I replaced both at the same time. Within a year, the ABS sensor went on one, and the other didn't turn as easily as it should have. Yup, those cheap hubs where a total waste of money and my time. I knew that front cheap hubs where a gamble. But I was surprised when I found out that even the cheap rear hubs aren't worth a damn.
 

Griswald

Member
Mar 15, 2010
33
0
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May 28, 2011
#3
  • May 28, 2011
  • #3
Thanks for the reply! I've been reading around (searching "sn95 hub noise" etc...) and have found similar descriptions. I also found the nuts are 36mm, one time use, and torqued to 250 ft/lb!!
 

MFE92

10 Year Member
Aug 25, 2010
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Phoenix
May 29, 2011
#4
  • May 29, 2011
  • #4
You CAN rebuild the SN95 hubs, I've done several of them, but that one sounds FUBAR'd. Slap a new one on it, re-use the purportedly one-use nut, and torque the ever loving hell out of it. If you'll be using it in hard canyon carving or road course work, take the new hub apart, clean it out, and re-pack it wiht some really good high-temp grease like Red Line.
 

stang&2Birds

Founding Member
May 4, 2000
2,091
5
58
New England. :-) CT/MA
May 29, 2011
#5
  • May 29, 2011
  • #5
MFE92 said:
You CAN rebuild the SN95 hubs, I've done several of them, but that one sounds FUBAR'd. Slap a new one on it, re-use the purportedly one-use nut, and torque the ever loving hell out of it. If you'll be using it in hard canyon carving or road course work, take the new hub apart, clean it out, and re-pack it wiht some really good high-temp grease like Red Line.
Click to expand...

Are you talking about repacking an sn95 hub?
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/581925-how-repack-sn-95-spindle-hub-bearings.html

Yea, that's possible. However, that's very different than a rebuild of a hub. A proper rebuild requires new matched bearings and races, and a check for tolerances after assembly

Also, again, IMHO, replacing the bearings and races with anything other than FORD (or maybe real Timken)) bearings is a waste of time and money. If anyone is doing rebuilds with anything else, then I'll nicely suggest that if they used good bearings, then they may not be doing so many rebuilds.

And, also a failure could mean loss of life (the driver or innocent others). On my '77 Olds Cutlass I had a front bearing go and explode while driving. No fun at all!
 

stang&2Birds

Founding Member
May 4, 2000
2,091
5
58
New England. :-) CT/MA
May 29, 2011
#6
  • May 29, 2011
  • #6
Griswald said:
and torqued to 250 ft/lb!!
Click to expand...
Yea. My torque wrench goes to 200ft lbs. So I used that until it clicked. Then, I used a pipe on my 1/2" wrench and tightened the nut "a little more". If I remember correctly, I think I did ~1/4->1/3 of an additional turn. NOTE: I do NOT know if that gets it close to the right torque amount.
 

Griswald

Member
Mar 15, 2010
33
0
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CA
May 29, 2011
#7
  • May 29, 2011
  • #7
Yesterday, I ordered Timken hubs, and Dorman nuts. I've used Timken bearings in the past (on another vehicle), and was very happy with the quality. As for being "real" Timken, would that be US made? I won't know until they arrive at my door.
 

Griswald

Member
Mar 15, 2010
33
0
6
CA
May 29, 2011
#8
  • May 29, 2011
  • #8
Well, I took the hub off. No way was this nut torqued to 250. I broke it loose with a 18" breaker bar, and a couple pushes. I'm no weight lifter.
After reading the above link, I'm going to pop these apart for the hell of it.
Bearings read: KOYO, DACF111OD?, SH



 

Griswald

Member
Mar 15, 2010
33
0
6
CA
May 29, 2011
#9
  • May 29, 2011
  • #9
It's tricky to get a good photo of this. I took the hub apart and felt these grooves right away. I marked the outer edge with a pen, of where the 3 grooves were. I think (hope) this is my problem.

 
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