bad lifter chatter, need some help, sorta long....

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.
Sep 13, 2004
2,487
4
0
Miami, Ok
ok as most of you know i have had my engine apart replacing a headgasket. and i had a friend of mine from work work on my thumper heads a bit while i had them out.

he put 1.94/1.6 valves in and put some good springs and seal etc. he does alot of his own work and etc anyways he did my work for me. they looked like he did a good job. i bolted down one of my frpp 1.7 rockers and the roller tip of the rocker IS NOT on the center of the valve tip, not close at all really. from just looking at it, it looked like .100" off toward the exhaust side, like the valve tip isnt coming up where it was before. i asked him about it. he tells me that its like that because i have a 1.7 rocker and that they increase the ratio by extending the arm that touched the valve. which makes NO sense to me. i told him i am pretty sure they change the ratio by moving the pushrod cup father/close to the fulcrum of the rocker arm. so moving the cup closer to the fulcrum would increase the ratio. this makes more sense and i'm sure this is how its done.

there is a SBC head at work we use to fit up valve covers, there are both 1.6s and 1.5s on this head, and they are right next to one another and you can see PLAIN as day the 1.6 rocker arm has the pushrod closer to the fulcrum point of the rocker arm.

he told me this was all normal so i am thinking "whatever" i didnt agree at all.
so i went on my way. i started putting the engine together, went to check PTV clearance and my stock pushrods WERE NOT long enough, they were around .100" to short or around there.

this in with the rocker arm tip coming close to the edge, i started thinking the valve height was wrong and was down father causing the rocker arm to come down, having the roller tip come to the edge and making the pushrods useless.

if the heads were done right with the valve height the same, the rocker arm would have been right and the stock pushrods would have worked just fine.

keep in mind i am still using pedestal mount rockers.

i tell him about this and he says the valve height is the same as they were before and that using a different cam and lifters will require different pushrods. i disagreed with him again.

i told him the lifters i bought were replacement lifters and were IDENTICAL to the stock ones i pulled out. i also said the cam chang (b cam to f cam) would have nothing to do with it, when the valve is shut its not going to go down so far that it will cause there to be slack in the valve train.

he then proceeds to tell me how changing things from factory stuff will change things, i told him that it shouldnt. its all the same stuff, the lifters wont change and the cam would only be changing the lift duration etc, not making the lifted come down in its bore father than factory, that makes no sense at all and is a load of crap.

if you havent guessed this guy is ALWAYS RIGHT:nice: and i cant tell him a damn thing, i am pretty confident he is wrong and did my heads wrong.

he keeps assuring me everything is normal, so i continue... playing dumb about the whole thing, i want to see how it runs and if his head work causes problems then he cant tell me its normal. i wouldnt have been able to get him to do anything with them because he thinks hes right.

so i get the engine back together, and installed the rockers and NEW LONGER pushrods i had to buy ( about .150" longer)

when cycling the engine the rocker tips come SO CLOSE to the edge of the valve tip its not even funny, they dont go off but its close. i think wtf.

i get the engine running and sounds like a damn sewing machine. HORRBILE CHATTER, thought it was an exhaust leak at first, but i have dealt with plenty of exhaust leaks and this wasnt no exhaust leak at all. its not really a tick at all, more of a chattering sound, coming from below the manifold. no really up in the valve covers.

i was thinking i maybe got too long of a pushrod ( which i shouldnt have to have gotten at all) and its bottoming out the lifter and causing slack.

at idle and etc it wasnt too bad. once i started driving it was horrible. you can hear it all the time and its annoying.

other than the horrid sewing machine noise the car runs good, it runs decent.


now i am stuck on what to do. this chatter problem all leads back to what the guy did to my heads, i think he did them wrong and he assured me they are fine and etc.

i am pissed now that i have this noise. i dont think he will admit to anything, because he honestly thinks what he did was right.
i partially feel stupid for installing the heads, but trying to convince him about the work was like talking to a brick wall i couldnt get anywhere.

i am going to take the car over to his house tommorow and let him hear it, i mentioned it to him earlier this week and he ASSURES:rolleyes: its probably and exhaust leak. its no damn leak i tell you. i wont accuse him of anything at first i want to see what he thinks it is. i'll see where it goes and may confront him...

i will let him hear it for himself tommorow. i am pretty sure he wont say he did anything wrong at all. so pretty much i am SOL i think on this whole deal. i only paid 400 bucks so its not a HUGE amount of money but it makes me mad.

i do want to tear the heads off again. i just worked hard and spend time getting it back together clean and with no leaks etc etc.

is there a way i can switch over to a stud mount rocker system and somehow get the rocker to sit lower or something to get the roller tip over the center of the valve tip?? pretty much i mean is can i correct this at all without having to pull them off and get them fixed.

any other suggestions on what i should do?
 
From everything I read the pushrods were to long start with and are way to long now, and this is why your valve train is making so much noise.

If the pattern was on the exaust side (this indicates too long) you should have installed shorter pushrods (after checking for length with an adjustable pushrod). You need to recheck for pushrod legnth with an adjustable pushrod and get the right size pushrods.

You friend is correct, changing the cam can and usually will change pushrod legnth.
 
I agree. Pushrods were too long to begin with and now they're even longer. .150 is a massive increase in length.

If the valve stem tips are "further down" that would require a shorter length pushrod to get the geometry correct.
 
Did you use the Ford 1.7 rockers made by Crane? They are super loud anyway, but still your pushrods are too long. The reason you prolly thought you needed longer ones to start was your new lifters weren't pumped up. I would say install your old pushrods and do a sweep on the valve stem using Sharpie marker, keep them on the intake side of center.
 
the pushrods were not too long they were way too short to start with. i soaked the lifters in oil, they were pumped up and the pushrod didnt ever touch the rocker arm cup. i'm running pedestal rockers, there isnt a way i can change the pattern on the valve tip without changing the valve height.

i am pretty sure the valve height is wrong on them. its causing the rocker arm to swing down farther before it even hits the valve tip.

if they were too long to start with and i put a .150" longer pushrod in it.... (IIRC the lifter plunger is has only .100 travel) then i would be holding the valves open and be expierencing backfiring etc, but i am not, it runs decent. if i were to try and use the stock pushrods it wouldnt work. with the lifter pumped up and up at the top of its plunger the pushrod comes .100" short of touching the rocker arm.

it sounds like a bunch of slack like the cam is a solid roller and there is lash in it.

there is NO way i can get the tip of the roller on my rockers to come to the center of the valve tip with what i have now. thats why i am needing to know if i can get an adjustable stud rocker setup and move the rocker arm down to put the roller tip in the correct place.

the roller tip is so far out to the side i am honestly afraid to run it hard, fearing under high rpm it could come off and push on the retainer, releasing the lock and dropping the valve.

i ran these rockers before and they werent really noisy at all.

as for the cam, the base circle of the cam should remain the same. the only way this could cause my problem is if it was smaller causing the lifter to go down farther than factory causing slack in the valve train.

here is a small drawing i made trying explaining my problem
View attachment 332731
 
shimming the rockers up will only make it worse, the rocker needs to come down. i am fixing to tear the engine down a bit to get a better look and check it out better. i will let you know what i find.

but do you think with a stud rocker i will be able to adjust this to where it puts the rocker tip in the center. it seems like i can. then i can do away with the pedestal setup.
 
IMHO, the rocker is not the problem here. You need to verify what the proper pushrod legnth is with an adjustable pushrod and a solid lifter.

According to your posts, I can not see anywhere you have done this.
 
i know the rocker isnt the problem, the valve height is shorter, or the seat wasnt cut deep enough or something. from what i can tell the valve tip isnt in the right spot. the rockers and stock pushrods worked fine before.

sure i can get a correct pushrod, and it may quiet things down but the roller tip on the rocker is still going to be on the outer edge of the valve tip where i dont want it, the wear pattern on the top of the valve tip isnt anywhere near the center its out on the edge. this runs the risk of falling off and pressing on the retainer taking a big change of undoing the locks and dropping a valve, plus it also puts side thrust on the valve wearing out the guides faster.

if i go to an adjustable setup i can get a pushrod checker and find what length pushrod i will need that will put the wear pattern in the center of the valve tip.

IMO messing with the pedestal setup i have now is pointless, i cant change the relation of the rocker arm to the valve tip so i am SOL on that, shimming would only help if i the valve was taller and the rocker need to move up, but its the exact opposite.
 
IMHO, the rocker is not the problem here. You need to verify what the proper pushrod legnth is with an adjustable pushrod and a solid lifter.

According to your posts, I can not see anywhere you have done this.

Good advice here. I had problems doing this properly until I took an older lifter, pulled it apart, and flipped the little cam upside down inside of it, and reassembled it essentially creating a solid lifter to check my rocker arm tip orientation on the valve tips.

"Soaking your lifters in oil" is not an accurate way to accomplish any of this.
 
its my dumb mistake that i really didnt check all that but there isnt much i can do with the pedestal setup from what i can see.

i'm not trying to come across as an ass over all this i'm just a little pissed about the whole situation. the guy kept telling me how it was all going to work like i had it before. ive never had any valve train issues because its always been so simple... so i am sorta a newbie at the valve stuff. ive been trying to get this car going for a while and i had some fits with it and this just tops the cake, like i said earlier i only paid 400 bucks and it seems i got my moneys worth. i guess i am just going to have to eat this and go on, i dont really feel like pulling the heads back off. and i am certainly willing to swap over to a stud setup if it will fix my problems which i think it will. i will check it all and do it right this time. i'll soak this in as a learning expierence.

thanks u guys for the suggestions and help i appreciate it.
 
i just thought of something.

is there a way that my lifters arent pumping up at all? its making 50 pounds of oil pressure at idle so that certainly seems like enough. when i soaked them in oil for days like i said before. they seemed to pump up, when you tried to squish them by hand they wouldnt do it.

but once you put the pushrods and rockers on and bolted it all down and cycled the engine it would just smash the lifter down and the plunger would move freely, you could push it in by hand and there would be slack but if the plunger was close to the top of its travel it would take up the slack and there would be preload on it assume there was oil in the lifter. i assumed with the engine running making oil pressure it would pump them back up, am i missing something here?
 
Did he verify stem height? If he used chevy valves they will be shorter.Using a longer pushrod will get the preload right but put the tip of the rocker off the end of the valve.You need shorter valve stems,shorter trunions or maybe a set of comp cams adjustable pedastel rockers.He screwed up stem height.......
 
Did he verify stem height? If he used chevy valves they will be shorter.Using a longer pushrod will get the preload right but put the tip of the rocker off the end of the valve.You need shorter valve stems,shorter trunions or maybe a set of comp cams adjustable pedastel rockers.He screwed up stem height.......
yeah thats what i am meaning.

he said something about being able to use chevy valves in ford heads etc etc. but he said he used ford valves and he TOLD me they were installed at the same height after i asked, but from what i can tell from what i have thats not the case.

my biggest concern now isnt the pushrod problem, i can always get the perfect pushrod i am more concerned about the wear pattern on the top of the stem.

wouldnt a set of stud rockers give me the adjustment i am needing, it seems like it can unless there is something i am not seeing.
 
a couple things are possible
1. a crane stud/guide plate kit and a set of new roller rockers
2. shorten the roller rocker trunions you have
both these fixes need a shorter pushrod to get geometry to work,if they even will.
 
I'm on board with stem length, which makes me think of another issue. Spring install height and coil bind. If the spring was designed to run on said longer valve with an I/H of "#", installing a shorter valve is going to cause some real issues and you could be in jeopardy if breaking a spring.

You might want to send them back to Thumper or atleast contact him and let him know whats going on. Do you know the part numbers for the new parts installed?
 
well i think he did good quality work but just did that stem height different. i dont think he messed up the spring height, he told me he checked the clearances and set up the springs right, so i duno if he did really or not lol. i will ask him for some part numbers this week. it all looks normal and doesnt look like it would bind when i cycled the engine. but i duno if that would be something you could see with your eyes or not.
 
If the stem height is shorter the spring height will be also unless he used different locks or retainers to raise it.How about a few pics when you get the covers off? You should have a min of .050 from retainer to guide clearance at full lift but most say .125 in the book.I the stems poke stick up over the retainers more then .250 and the stems are too short you may run into binding problems.
 
well like on a stock ford setup the stems poke up above the retainer bit. mine dont poke up at all they are pretty much flush with the retainer. its like the lock groove is higher up on an offset (towards top) lock was used. so i think thats good according to what you said.

i will snap pics today hopefully. i plan to tear it down.