Bad Luck

"fan controller" info please. after market computer?

if its running alright after adding coolant it should be fine, I would be expecting no less than a popped head gasket if you really did anything by boiling over. if there's no coolant/oil milkshake in the oil pan and it's not missing at idle I'd say you're good

I have boiled over a few times on different vehicles including my 88gt. So far never hurt a thing. I would be a little worried if you have aluminum heads. But if it is running good now I would say it's fine.

Fact of life: If you own a high performance old car, you better have some good mechanic skills.
If you don't, someone else will own your wallet.

The DCC controllers are pretty solid devices, and most of the problems are from wiring & installation.
Has the warranty run out on yours? If not contact Brian about repairs or exchange on your controller.

Here's some simple diagnostic tests that only require a paper clip to do.

Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a
jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start
the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then
quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed
2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about
1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each
injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors,
it will flash 9 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder
such as 2 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to
2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures.
Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is
weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop
manual for the complete test procedure

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire
or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter.
I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

[



If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



Do a compression test on all the cylinders.
Take special note of any cylinder that shows up as weak in the cylinder
balance test. Low compression on one of these cylinders rules out the
injectors as being the most likely cause of the problem. Look at cylinders
that fail the cylinder balance test but have good compression. These
cylinders either have a bad injector, bad spark plug or spark plug wire.
Move the wire and then the spark plug to another cylinder and run the
cylinder balance test again. If it follows the moved wire or spark plug,
you have found the problem. If the same cylinder fails the test again,
the injector is bad. If different cylinders fail the cylinder balance test,
you have ignition problems or wiring problems in the 10 pin black &
white electrical connectors located by the EGR.

How to do a compression test:
Only use a compression tester with a screw in adapter for the spark
plug hole. The other type leaks too much to get an accurate reading.
Your local auto parts store may have a compression tester to rent.
If you do mechanic work on your own car on a regular basis, it would
be a good tool to add to your collection.

With the engine warmed up, remove all spark plugs and prop the
throttle wide open, crank the engine until it the gage reading stops
increasing. On a cold engine, it will be hard to tell what's good &
what's not. Some of the recent posts have numbers ranging from
140-170 psi. If the compression is low, squirt some oil in the cylinder
and do it again – if it comes up, the rings are worn. There should be
no more than 10% difference between cylinders. Use a blow down
leak test (puts compressed air inside cylinders) on cylinders that
have more than 10% difference.

See the link to my site for details on how to build your own blow
down type compression tester.

The relay size limit is pretty much a function of the socket size and connector layout. The wiring inside the unit may not carry 75 amps. The running current is 30 amps or less for most electric fans.

The Delta units are designed to be submersible - they're big with the offroad 4X4 crowd.

I'd contact Brian just to get his input and for my own peace of mind (even if you don't reuse the controller again).

The 94-95 fans had issues with the fan motor seizing and catching the wiring on fire. The stock fuse on one is a 60 amp but it almost never blows (even when the wiring harness catches on fire). I hypothesize that this size was chosen to accomodate the start-up draw. A circuit breaker was retrofitted to some of the fan connectors.

The 55 amp relay should be adequate, as I'd guess that the CCRM has 40 amp relays at best. If you want experienced input, talk to Urban96, as he runs a Spal controller on his 94-95 Mustang IIRC. He can tell you about any issues he might have encountered.

Good luck.

First thing i would do is change the oil before you drive it at all. $25 insurance that there is no water in the oil.
This is also part of the reason i like mechanical fans.

Did you order the Spal PWM controller? I've heard that you have to recalibrate that Spal controller (which takes a long time, because you have to bring your engine up to the temps at which you calibrate), every time you disconnect the battery, because it's all electronic (no dial).

Someone please correct me, if I'm wrong.

That's why I got the Flex-A-Lite controller (33054) instead.

I just got the controllers and tested them. All three of them, including the one with the 16 pin connector blown off of it fired right up. I ran them all from -40F to 250F, all good.

No idea how they blew the pins off, I think you’d have to go nation wide though to resolve the problem. I’m pretty sure I told you about the one mechanic that used the bench grinder in order to get a better ground.

Actually, other than the pins, this wasn’t really their fault. The instruction sheet that you got with the first controller implied that you could just leave the ignition input disconnected, and that works fine until the 16 pin connector gets enough contamination in it. Then, particularly when it gets wet, the controller will shut off. The connectors are pretty dirty, so you’ll have to connect the ignition input on these. In fact, all three of these shut off at one point when I was testing them, and connecting the ignition input let them run throughout the test, I ran all of them for at least a couple of hours after that.

Out of the three, the second one is the best, it’s in about perfect condition, the one without the pins is also in good shape with the exception of the pins. The oldest one could use new hardware, since it’s got a fair amount of corrosion, but it tested fine also. I’d install the other two and keep that one for a spare. I just need a label or 10.00 if you want me to send them priority mail.