Popps then Shuts Off again.

[robw13]

My mechanic just got the Ign Module replaced and the car pulled the same crap again.
Going down the road, heard/felt a pop, lost power and engine light. Would crank but no start. After sitting for 10min, fired back up but feels like it's got a miss/fluctuating idle.
Any ideas?

90 mustang gt vert. 5sp 5.0l

 

[General karthief]

Fuel pressure?

 

[robw13]

Not sure, should have enough. I think it's a something ign related still.

 

[General karthief]

It should but does it?
I hesitate, you have a mechanic working on this?

 

[robw13]

Yeah, didn't do anything when he had it last.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Have you checked to see if there are any codes? CEL only illuminates for emissions related codes so other codes can be present and you will not get a CEL.

 

[General karthief]

Are you going to work on this issue yourself?
I ask this because when I hung around the 'shop' that my friend had, people came in with 'I googled this and it said to replace this part' or 'my friend told me to have you do this....' keyboard mechanics can be useful to the DYIer, not so much at a repair shop, they should know what to do but sadly not many mechanics know how to diagnose our older cars.
I would check out this thread :

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected 5.0 Mustangs model years 1986-1995 A word about this checklist before you start: it is arranged in a specific order to put the most likely failure items first. That will save you time, energy and money. Start at the top of the list and work...

www.stangnet.com

This checklist is useful when the car dies and won't restart so you have to run the checklist when it dies,
There are some quickie things to do when it dies (may be cover in the checklist) a shot of starter fluid will tell you if it's running out of fuel or a no spark condition.
The ignition switches, the electronic switch under the dash on the lower part of the steering column, is known to fail so get out the flashlight to see if it's loose or burnt connections.
Let us know what the plan is.

 

[robw13]

Cool beans, I didn't get a chance to cut I was on the hwy when it died. Had it towed. My mechanic is old school thankfully, hates the newer stuff

 

[robw13]

Update:
Replaced Distributor - Pickup was failing. Gonna replace Coolant Sensors too. Runs fine with Temp Sensor unplugged.

 

[gkomo]

What distributor did you replace it with?

 

[robw13]

Only one close to here was a Duralst Gold, Steel Gear. I'm sure it may not last though

 

[General karthief]

Only one close to here was a Duralst Gold, Steel Gear. I'm sure it may not last though

Why will it not last?

 

[robw13]

Idk lol, just overthinking i guess. He said its running better now, but have to replace the Temp Sensors. Says it runs/idles great when the temp sensor is unplugged.

 

[robw13]

Changed Distributor, no change, alot of jerk/popping when driving slow and dies. Will not staying idleing/dies. Scanner also showed both temp sensors faulty. I've changed the ect so far, no change. Waiting on the gauge one though.
What else too check? Possible wires or bad dizzy/Icm? Its running rich too, can smell it alot.

 

[Noobz347]

Have you checked to see if there are any codes? CEL only illuminates for emissions related codes so other codes can be present and you will not get a CEL.

If you have temp sensor issues, you should have codes to go with them.

 

[robw13]

Mechanic checked em, I didn't ask of course lol.

 

[Noobz347]

Buy yourself an OBD1 code reader and a multi-meter and get back to us...


or have your mechanic join Stangnet.


In seriousness, there is no way for us to help you over the internet if we don't have information. At this point, I would leave it in the hands of your mechanic to solve.


View: https://youtube.com/shorts/byg8jtZ4vOU?feature=shared

 

[robw13]

Agreed, I got one coming, will update after learning codes and what not.

 

[General karthief]

The temp sender will have no effect on how the engine runs, it only works the gauge, the engine temp sensor (notice the word change?) that mounts in the heater tube talks to the computer. They rarely go bad but it does happen. Wiring would be suspect if you get a code for a ECT fault.
Your mechanic knows this. Now you do too.

 

[robw13]

Changed both sensors & dizzy, idles little better but the rpms will drop now and then. Haven't driven it yet. Only codes on 1st test is 10,11,18.

The main issue that started this mess is it suddenly lose power/stall going down the road and would have to wait 5-10min to fire back up. Would just crank over.