Bad news, but great at the same time!!!

[69Rcode_Mach1]

Well guys I have got some ****ty news. When I started my engine and my previous oil pump died, it wore down my cam bearings resulting in low oil pressure. So I am going to have to pull the engine in between semesters, which shouldn't be bad. My goal is to get it out and back in in a week or so.Plus the tranny seems like it has a problem so I need to take it apart and see what is up. But if she is coming out it is time to upgrade!!!!! I will put in a new cam and intake manifold to up the power of the car quite a bit. Check my sig below for the combo, I will replace the intake manifold with a Victor Jr. and also here is a link to the cam I will be putting in : http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=LUN-55118LUN&FROM=MG . With the 1.7 rockers it should make for a fun ride. It will be nice to run a Hydraulic Roller cam even though it will be retrofit. The bottom end has been built up and balanced so it can handle the revs. Rods were shotpeened and magnafluxed so they should hold up fine, Ron has spun the things to 7500rpms with no problems. Plus ARP bolts will help keep her safe also. I think these parts would match up with my heads a lot better and awaken a lot more horsies. Just curious what kind of power I could expect to get with this stuff? You can give me what to expect at sealevel or what to expect at 4200 feet where I live. I appreciate it, the thought of building the engine more excites me even though I had a huge letdown. Just would like to know what I could see out of it in the end. Thanks guys.

 

[HistoricMustang]

Yep, I am going to pull the motor in Ms. Historic Mustang's coupe over the Thanksgiving Holidays. Will be able to get it out in about 90 minutes.

Going to drop in a long block from Advanced Auto Parts. (See other thread).

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

Yep I know what you mean. Getting it out is easy could be done in an hour if you really tried to fly, it's putting it back in that is a huge PITA.. Any rough estimates on power and times with slicks? I don't really plan to race the car that much but I really would like to break 11's, I think the ET attests to the ability of the car a great deal. Overall she will just be the coolest cruiser car ever!!!!!!!

 

[gsxrken]

Good luck with your build. Make sure to check your valve to piston clearance with the new cam. I know from personal experience that the VIC JR intake under a holley will not allow you to close your hood. You also have to ditch that highway rear with the ViC JR heads and intake or you may actually go slower. Last thing is if you get this combo sorted out and start hooking up low to mid 12s it could probably run on slicks, that T5 is on borrowed time.

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

HAHAHA yeah I have looked into all that. I will be gearing the rearend down the road. I had a quarter inch clearance with the previous cam but I will be doing it again to be safe and make sure it isn't affected by the duration, cause the lift is okay for sure. The tranny I don't plan on it lasting longer than a year or two. The thing will not make many trips to the track, maybe the occasional launch on slicks but very rare.

 

[hungrymonkey]

have you made sure that the cam bearings are the only problem?

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

Yeah everything else is in place, anyway the tranny is having some issues so I need to get it out to look at it.

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

Whoops I just realized that the link to the cam is bad. What do you guys think with this: http://store.summitracing.com/defau...4294840125+4294887637+4294887636&autoview=sku

Update: I got the headers, radiator, and intake manifold off. This is going to be easier than I thought. Just gotta get the Retrofit kit for the cam so I can take her out and fix it right away.

 

[302 coupe]

what retrofit kit are you talking about? I hope its just the link bars lifters, and not the spider and dogbone stuff. Also, you'll want to make sure your valve springs are up to the task of controlling the new cam.

 

[steel1212]

Yeah, I'm curious about the retro kit myself as I've contemplated doing this. Also since you have a 69 why not go with a tko 600 if you want to bang gears. I'd would like to see a dyno of when your power comes in on that thing once your done. I bet the power band is up high but man I bet its a wild ride!

 

[Edbert]

Was the 280H too mild for you?

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

Lunati sells a retrofit kit, and yes it is the dogbones, and spider assembly. I wish I would have known that I could fit a TKO in my car. I made a post last year and nobody commented some people told me I wouldn't get pinion angles so I left it alone. Edbert I got to drive the car like 2 miles with the 280H but it wasn't anything too extreme. I figured since it is coming out I may as well upgrade, it will match my heads and the new intake better. The fact that this is roller will tame it a bit too.

 

[302 coupe]

why are you considering using the retrofit kit? Its been practically obsoleted by the all the linkbar lifters on the market. I might sound like a broken record, but reduced base circle cams are bad. There is not a good variety of off the shelf grinds to choose from, and they all have fairly weak lobe profiles. I'd rather run a solid flat tappet, or even a hot hyd flat tappet than used the weak reduced base cirlce cams. Use a full base circle cam, they have the strength to support some really aggressive lobes due to their larger core size. To facilitate the use of this cam, use one of the many link bar roller lifters on the market. They are a drop in swap for early non-roller blocks. The dogbone/spider stuff is not something you want to 'upgrade' to, it has no advantage with a non-roller block. In steel1212's post about cams, I list some part numbers for link bar lifters that can be bought just about anywhere.

 

[krash kendall]

Nice upgrade to your avatar coupe!

 

[302 coupe]

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

Hey 302 coupe could you elaborate more? I checked out that crower part number and it looks like I won't have to drill the block and I can just drop them in. Is it okay to use a crower lifter with a lunati cam? (I know stupid question, but better safe than sorry) Also can you explain the benefits of this to me a little more and what it will yeild on the cam I am putting in.

 

[Edbert]

Converting like that will require the entire block to be disassembled, machined, and reassembled. Not saying don't do it, it is a superior design. But it is not a weekend event like the one you have in mind.

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

Converting like that will require the entire block to be disassembled, machined, and reassembled. Not saying don't do it, it is a superior design. But it is not a weekend event like the one you have in mind.

Do you mean converting by means of the lifters or the dogbones method? The block will have to go to the machine shop for new bearings anyway. I just want to understand the full extent of the benefits so I can do this properly. It sounds like the best way to go, now I just want to understand why. And my other question above about compatibility with the cam.

 

[302 coupe]

you can use a crower lifter on a lunati cam with no problems. Basically, the link bar eliminates the need for the dogbones and spider. The purpose of these pieces is to keep the lifters from spinning in the bore. Flat tappet lifters are supposed to spin in the bore, roller lifters are not supposed to spin in the bore due to the orientation of the roller wheel. Production roller blocks have taller lifter bores that are machined flat for the dogbones. The taller bores are needed to fit the tall hydraulic roller lifters, the dogbone is used to keep the lifters from spinning, and the spider is used to hold the dogbones in place. With a non-roller block, you're stuck with shorter lifter bores and no tapped holes to bolt down the spider. You can tap the holes and bolt down the spider, but then the lifters stick to far out of their bores to work properly. To correct this, they machine the cam with a smaller base circle, thereby allowing the lifter to sit further down in the bore. This is why the retrofit kits have the nut-serts for the spider, and the reduced base circle cam, just to allow you to use a stock type hydraulic roller lifter and the stock dogbones. Kind of a compromise don't you think? The link bar lifters I listed in the other thread are purpose made to eliminate the compromises in the retrofit kit. The lifter body is made to ride properly in the shorter bore, on a full base circle cam, while the link bars keep them from spinning. No nut-sert, no dinky camshaft, no compromises, and the best part-no additional cost. The only thing that mght be an issue, is that the heads have to be removed to install them, but thats likely the case with the retrofit stuff too. There really is no downside to the link bar stuff, it drops right in place. If you switch to a roller cam, be sure to change to the proper valvesprings. Roller cams require stiffer springs because the lifter itself is heavier than a flat tappet and the lobes have steeper ramps, the extra pressure is needed to keep everything under control.

Note that if that lunati cam has a reduced base circle, and you use the crower lifters, you will need a significantly longer than usual pushrod, not really a problem though.

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

Awesome thank you for your wisdom 302 coupe. I will definitely do that then. Also how can I tell if the cam is a reduced base circle cam? Can you check the link and help me out with that. Also the Victor Jr.'s have really stiff springs they can handle up to .650 lift. Let me check my part number and get a link to see what you guys think. I think the valve springs should be okay.