• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Bad Thermostat?

  • Thread starter Thread starter maximos
  • Start date Start date Feb 10, 2009

maximos

Member
Sep 15, 2005
188
0
16
Columbus, OH
Feb 10, 2009
#1
  • Feb 10, 2009
  • #1
I thought I had put my cooling system issues behind me but there appears to be something wrong still. Just to give you guys a timeline:

August: Replaced radiator, cooling fan, and thermostat
December: No heat coming from vents, fan stopped working causing overheating - had a complete coolant flush and discovered a bad ground wire from fan
February: Heats works for the most part, occasional periods where only cold air comes through the vents despite the car being above normal operating temp. Sometimes when I turn the heat on it will cause the temp to rise from the "O" in NORMAL to the "L" then all of a sudden it will go back down to the "O" after about a minute. This appears to be completely random so I don't know what the cause is. I should also mention that this sudden rise in temperature has happened without the heat turning on, but I figured the connection was worth mentioning since I have noticed the sudden rise immediately after I turn the heat on.

Any thoughts?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Feb 10, 2009
#2
  • Feb 10, 2009
  • #2
I'd replace the t-stat with a decent one just to rule that out.

Do you have a real temp gauge that you can watch?

Give more info about when it runs at what temp. I.e., while on the highway, you should be at around the t-stat rating in terms of operating temps. Once stationary, the fan dictates operating temps.

In case it helps, here's a little cooling system tech note
 

maximos

Member
Sep 15, 2005
188
0
16
Columbus, OH
Feb 10, 2009
#3
  • Feb 10, 2009
  • #3
HISSIN50 said:
I'd replace the t-stat with a decent one just to rule that out.

Do you have a real temp gauge that you can watch?
Click to expand...


What type of thermostat would you recommend? The only temp gauge I have is in the stock instrument panel.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Feb 10, 2009
#4
  • Feb 10, 2009
  • #4
I've had good luck with Mr Gasket t-stats. That said, mine are older and some guys have complained that their newer ones were not working right.

Any balanced t-stat should be fine. I'd test it on the stove before installing it, just to be sure that it atleast works at 1 ATM.

15 bucks for a cheap mechanical guage could be helpful. It's a bit of work to install one, but if you've ever wanted some gauges for the car, now is the time to install some. Knowing actual temps is important IMHO.
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Feb 11, 2009
#5
  • Feb 11, 2009
  • #5
I'd check the ECT sensor as well, if the computer isn't reading the right temperature it might keep the engine in "warm-up" mode which will heat the engine up a lot. Does the cooling fan come on at all? If not, that's another sign of a bad ECT.
 

maximos

Member
Sep 15, 2005
188
0
16
Columbus, OH
Feb 11, 2009
#6
  • Feb 11, 2009
  • #6
The cooling fan does come on. I was actually going to ask how I can wire it so it stays on all the time. Any negative side-effects to doing this?

Where is the ECT located? I wouldn't mind swapping that out at the same time as the thermostat.
 

ProKiller

Founding Member
Apr 26, 2002
3,064
15
78
PA
Feb 11, 2009
#7
  • Feb 11, 2009
  • #7
i'd rather see you put in a manual fan switch rather than running it all the time. do a search for manual fan switch install and i'm sure you'll find what your looking for.
 

k00ksta

Member
May 13, 2007
158
0
17
Chicago
Feb 11, 2009
#8
  • Feb 11, 2009
  • #8
Its not that hard to wire the fan up to a switch, you will need a Relay, Some Automotive Wire and a decent switch. I can look tonight on which relay and switch I am using as well as write up a little description on how to do it if you can not find anything someone already did up.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,289
1,632
214
Acworth, GA
Feb 11, 2009
#9
  • Feb 11, 2009
  • #9
maximos said:
The cooling fan does come on. I was actually going to ask how I can wire it so it stays on all the time. Any negative side-effects to doing this?

Where is the ECT located? I wouldn't mind swapping that out at the same time as the thermostat.
Click to expand...

Running the fan all the time will just lead it to wear out faster. If the car is below the normal running temperature of "O" then there is no need for the fan to be on. It's much better to program the chip to turn the fan on at a lower temperature. Of course this requires you to get a chip. Aside from that, I wouldn't bother with having it run all the time. If the car is overheating, than it's going to be on anyway.

On the topic of thermostats. When a thermostat fails, it usually just gives up the ghost, and stops working all together. A thermostat has an expansion fluid in it that expands when it gets hot, pushing the thermostat open. A failure means a leak of the fluid chamber. If it has a leak, then it's not going to open at all. I have a Mr Gasket high flow in my car. I'll tell you one thing, for sure. The thermostat flows so much water to the radiator, that nothing ever gets up to the heater core. If you run a high flow thermostat, you are basically going to be giving up your heat for it. If you replace the thermostat, go to Ford and get the original. Stant has a monopoly on aftermarket thermostats, and their quality control sucks. I can't tell you how many problems I've had with Stant thermostats.

If you have irradic temperature changes, it's either a bad sensor (or bad wiring associated with the sensor), or it's a blown head gasket. Unfortunately, usually it's a blown head gasket.

Kurt
 

maximos

Member
Sep 15, 2005
188
0
16
Columbus, OH
Feb 13, 2009
#10
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #10
revhead347 said:
If you have irradic temperature changes, it's either a bad sensor (or bad wiring associated with the sensor), or it's a blown head gasket. Unfortunately, usually it's a blown head gasket.

Kurt
Click to expand...

What else should I look for as telltale signs of a blown head gasket? The low coolant light comes on every few weeks and I've had a feeling a blown gasket is the culprit.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,289
1,632
214
Acworth, GA
Feb 13, 2009
#11
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #11
Ok, what happens is that the gasket blows from the combustion chamber to the water jacket. Exhaust gas gets into the cooling system and blows some of the coolant out. That exhaust gases also form bubbles inside the cooling system, that flow past your temperature sensor. That's what causes the gauge to move around and spike and stuff. There is a test kit you can buy that tests for exhaust gasses in the coolant. I think they sell it at NAPA. If there are gasses in your coolant system, then you definately have a blown head gasket.

Kurt
 

Labora

Founding Member
Jun 11, 2000
1,854
26
69
Dallas, Texas
Feb 13, 2009
#12
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #12
Ford Tstat or bust IMO. All the other brands seem to not be worth the trouble.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,289
1,632
214
Acworth, GA
Feb 13, 2009
#13
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #13
Labora said:
Ford Tstat or bust IMO. All the other brands seem to not be worth the trouble.
Click to expand...

Totally agree. It's not a whole lot of money anyway.

Kurt
 
A

alecracing

New Member
Dec 6, 2008
18
0
1
Ft Lauderdale, FL
Feb 13, 2009
#14
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #14
I'm new here so i don't wanna be a dick, BUT, I've been a Ford tech for 20 years and it sounds like you have air in your cooling system.

Whenever you fill up your cooling system, it is a good idea to take out the ECT sensor on the front of the manifold while pooring the coolant in the radiator. When the coolant starts coming out the ECT hole than engine is full and hopefully heater hoses also.

air in the cooling system is logical thing when you turn your heat on and cool air comes out sometimes and your guage is erratic. If "burping" your cooling system doesn't work, then get the cooling system tester for combustion chamber gases.

It consists of a turkey baster type of thing with a tip that goes on the radiator cap opening and has blue fluid in it. put it on radiator with vehicle running and squeeze rubber ball to suck vapors from cooling system, if blue fluid turns yellow, then you have combustion chamber gases in the cooling system. This could be caused by a few different things: blown head gasket (most common), cracked cylinder head, or a cracked block.

MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT SUCK UP ANY COOLANT INTO THE TESTER!!! this will cause a false reading.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,289
1,632
214
Acworth, GA
Feb 13, 2009
#15
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #15
I've never had trouble with burping the cooling system on a Mustang. It always seems to take care of itself.

Kurt
 

maximos

Member
Sep 15, 2005
188
0
16
Columbus, OH
Feb 16, 2009
#16
  • Feb 16, 2009
  • #16
alecracing said:
air in the cooling system is logical thing when you turn your heat on and cool air comes out sometimes and your guage is erratic. If "burping" your cooling system doesn't work, then get the cooling system tester for combustion chamber gases.
Click to expand...

I had the cooling system completely flushed and filled at a Valvoline center. They checked for air in the system and didn't find any. This problem I've been having started happening before I had the system flushed.
 

maximos

Member
Sep 15, 2005
188
0
16
Columbus, OH
Feb 22, 2009
#17
  • Feb 22, 2009
  • #17
*UPDATE*

I believe my radiator is cracked. I got underneath the car and there was coolant covering the underside all the way back past the steering rack. Mishimoto is sending me a new one, but is there any way to prep the radiator prior to installation that will prevent future leaks, etc?

I figured out that the jumping temp needle was due to the fact that I had an extremely low amount of coolant in the system. I mistakenly trusted the "low coolant" light and relied on that to tell me when to put coolant in. I've been monitoring the coolant level more closely and I haven't had any problems other than the leaking.
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Feb 22, 2009
#18
  • Feb 22, 2009
  • #18
The low coolant sensor is in the overflow tank, it's attached to the cap. The "low coolant" system presumes your coolant system is intact and not leaking anywhere else. You now know how it can fail.

Our Mustangs have a lot of body flex right around the radiator support on the right side. Your radiator is likely cracked there. One theory to prevent the cracking is to cut the rubber radiator supports enough so the radiator isn't squeezed into place. If you have to yank back on the radiator to bolt the top brackets, it's in too tight.

Another theory is to install sub-frame connectors to reduce the body flex. Unfortunately, no one has been able to say 100% that these ideas will work.
 

maximos

Member
Sep 15, 2005
188
0
16
Columbus, OH
Feb 22, 2009
#19
  • Feb 22, 2009
  • #19
Chythar said:
Our Mustangs have a lot of body flex right around the radiator support on the right side. Your radiator is likely cracked there.
Click to expand...

That's exactly where I suspect the leak to be - lower passenger side of the radiator.

I assumed the radiator cracked when the car overheated (badly) a couple months ago when the ground wire to the fan went bad.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

J
V-6 thermostatically controlled cooling fan - on when cold - new behaviour
  • jacekk
  • Oct 1, 2025
  • 2005 - 2014 Specific V6 Tech
Replies
0
Views
135
2005 - 2014 Specific V6 Tech Oct 1, 2025
jacekk
J
Resolved Got Too Hot!!!
  • PonyGTrider
  • Apr 27, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
7
Views
570
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech May 6, 2025
PonyGTrider
R
coolant
  • Rudy10thsvt
  • Sep 28, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
15
Views
403
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Oct 1, 2025
General karthief
W
High Cylinder Head Temp - Not Overheating?
  • wtfwork12
  • Jun 26, 2025
  • 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
9
Views
2K
2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk- Jul 1, 2025
wtfwork12
W
M
Engine 1988 Foxbody - Overheating Summer
  • MDrisc
  • Oct 26, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
10
Views
492
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Nov 28, 2025
Mustang5L5
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?