Baers are on!!!.... Mostly... [pics]
- Thread starter Swede958
- Start date
I've been wondering about non-power disc brake systems myself. Since I'm hoping to have four wheel discs the next time the car sees the road under it's own power. How much effort do you have to put into the pedal to stop Swede? At least compared to the drums.
The pedal is still hard, I'm not gonna lie and say 'oh it's a snap to step on it". You gotta have a good right quad. But it seems to me the effort may be a bit more, but it get's more use out of it. I probable since driving (still with drum brake driving style) haven't pushed the pedal in more than about 2-3" past the slack.
For 4 wheel discs I might upgrade to a power set up, the early fox 2.3L booster works, just have to modify the firewall. Non power brakes are fine with me, less work for me to do. I've lived with them for 3 years, I can live with them with better ones for more.
That's a good idea for the exhaust piece 66hertzclone- I'll keeep it in mind.
For 4 wheel discs I might upgrade to a power set up, the early fox 2.3L booster works, just have to modify the firewall. Non power brakes are fine with me, less work for me to do. I've lived with them for 3 years, I can live with them with better ones for more.
That's a good idea for the exhaust piece 66hertzclone- I'll keeep it in mind.
Route666
Active Member
Route666
Active Member
streetgrande69 said:
Ahh I don't quite understand what you meant. Let's focus on 68-69 year here. What difference is there between disc and drum spindles for those years? They did have discs then right?
I too am of the thought (for the moment) to keep them manual. I may change my mind as I bring up the horsepower numbers. I don't know. I autocrossed it and the brakes being manual never crossed my mind. But if I were flying into the corners faster... it may be better to have a booster. I'd like to avoid the cost and labor. Time will tell....
Swede958 said:
Route666
Active Member
2whiteStripes
New Member
I just got my front & rear disk brake set up (track system ) from Precesion Machines In Lodi, CA . Ask for Kevin very friendly and the best prices in town. Has everything in stock and will ship in a few days.
Precision Machines
903-A black diamond way
lodi, CA 95240
209-369-2600
tell him Sayat recommended you
Precision Machines
903-A black diamond way
lodi, CA 95240
209-369-2600
tell him Sayat recommended you
Shakin66
Founding Member
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/scatpro/Picture111.jpg
I set up my shop to get Jobber prices but you will most likely have to wait 4-8 weeks for them. I cant say enough about the kits and how they perform. Funny story...I had them unpacked and sitting on my counter the day they finally arrived and a older man came in and asked "how much were they" and he about fell over and said "thats almost as much as the car sold for new." He laughed and tried to make me feel stupid about spending the money on an old car.....I finally said "You dont have a hobby do you?"
I set up my shop to get Jobber prices but you will most likely have to wait 4-8 weeks for them. I cant say enough about the kits and how they perform. Funny story...I had them unpacked and sitting on my counter the day they finally arrived and a older man came in and asked "how much were they" and he about fell over and said "thats almost as much as the car sold for new." He laughed and tried to make me feel stupid about spending the money on an old car.....I finally said "You dont have a hobby do you?"
stangkid88
New Member
those cross drilled rotors look 
makes me want to consider Baer instead of going with SSBC like I planned.
makes me want to consider Baer instead of going with SSBC like I planned.
fond memories of getting my 13" front manual track kit on. would not have it any other way. well at least untill I can work out what to do for the rearend. complete kit and easy to install. Cannot say enough how happy I am with BAER. pedal pressure feels great and I can actually stop the thing without drama.
dont forget the seasoning of rotors and bedding pads, makes the cash outlay worth every penny.
dont forget the seasoning of rotors and bedding pads, makes the cash outlay worth every penny.
70vert
New Member
You CAN get Baers for OE disc cars. Read on . . .
hey all,
while it was true at one point that you could only get a Baer kit (and I think this applies to many other aftermarket kits out there) for an OE drum car, it's possible to get kits for OE disc for just about every year now. I have OE drums and did the fronts first, now rears are upcoming, but I've read before that they have an updated kit, and you can order one right here:
http://www.streetortrack.com/Ford-Lincoln-Mecury-c-332.html
Also, check out what they, Wilwood, and SSBC say about drilled rotors. If you like the looks, more power to you - hey, it's your car - but all these makers agree that they are cosmetic. What happens is that there is less rotor to gain traction on and to pull heat away from the pad. Look at race cars and the setups they have. I opted for slotted only, no drill . . . and I too love my Baers! (even more so when the rears are on!)
hey all,
while it was true at one point that you could only get a Baer kit (and I think this applies to many other aftermarket kits out there) for an OE drum car, it's possible to get kits for OE disc for just about every year now. I have OE drums and did the fronts first, now rears are upcoming, but I've read before that they have an updated kit, and you can order one right here:
http://www.streetortrack.com/Ford-Lincoln-Mecury-c-332.html
Also, check out what they, Wilwood, and SSBC say about drilled rotors. If you like the looks, more power to you - hey, it's your car - but all these makers agree that they are cosmetic. What happens is that there is less rotor to gain traction on and to pull heat away from the pad. Look at race cars and the setups they have. I opted for slotted only, no drill . . . and I too love my Baers! (even more so when the rears are on!)
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