balancer not spinning straight

time for a new one. when the elastomer goes south, the outer ring can slip - often times laterally. i would not drive it like that. good luck.
 
It's likely just a bad balancer. You'll need a puller to remove it (Autozone will loan you a puller). Remove the serpentine belt, then remove the crank pulley bolt. Put the car in 4th or 5th gear with the brake firmly set to break the bolt loose. A good long cheater bar will help - it's under 80-120 ft-lbs. of torque. Remove the bolt and washer. Remove the water pump pulley. Install the puller and as you tighten the center bolt of the puller it will pull the balancer off. Install the pump pulley on the new balancer, slide it on far enough to engage the keyway, then use the bolt to install the balancer. Torque to spec. You're done.
 
Michael Yount said:
It's likely just a bad balancer. You'll need a puller to remove it (Autozone will loan you a puller). Remove the serpentine belt, then remove the crank pulley bolt. Put the car in 4th or 5th gear with the brake firmly set to break the bolt loose. A good long cheater bar will help - it's under 80-120 ft-lbs. of torque. Remove the bolt and washer. Remove the water pump pulley. Install the puller and as you tighten the center bolt of the puller it will pull the balancer off. Install the pump pulley on the new balancer, slide it on far enough to engage the keyway, then use the bolt to install the balancer. Torque to spec. You're done.
Thanks Mikee,,sounds like its just a muscle job. 2 hours in the street,,not bad,,thanks skoobie.
 
Now would be a good time to replace the front main seal as well. They are only around 10 bucks or so and it is right there when you pull off the balancer. Also be sure to lube the balancer and seal so it is not dry when you put it back on. If not it could cause the front seal to tear and leak as soon as you crank it over.
 
Michael Yount said:
It's likely just a bad balancer. You'll need a puller to remove it (Autozone will loan you a puller). Remove the serpentine belt, then remove the crank pulley bolt. Put the car in 4th or 5th gear with the brake firmly set to break the bolt loose. A good long cheater bar will help - it's under 80-120 ft-lbs. of torque. Remove the bolt and washer. Remove the water pump pulley. Install the puller and as you tighten the center bolt of the puller it will pull the balancer off. Install the pump pulley on the new balancer, slide it on far enough to engage the keyway, then use the bolt to install the balancer. Torque to spec. You're done.

Before you install the puller.........put the bolt back in the crank WITHOUT the washer - the puller will push against the bolt head this way, and not mess up the threads in the crank. :nice:
 
cevtv said:
Before you install the puller.........put the bolt back in the crank WITHOUT the washer - the puller will push against the bolt head this way, and not mess up the threads in the crank. :nice:
nice catch - i forgot about mentioning that. very good idea. also, do use an install tool to install the new balancer. some folks say to use the bolt to run it in. i dont like that idea (if the balancer does not hardly slide on the crank snout, you dont want to pull the balancer on with one or two threads of a bolt).
some folks put a smidge of RTV on the key way too.
good luck.
 
If the puller is a good one, it will have a centering tip on it that is not only tapered, but is also free to rotate separate from the main puller screw - it can't hurt the threads. Furthermore, if the balancer's really tight, and you've got the threaded end of the puller sitting flush against the bolt - the center of the puller can 'walk' which isn't a good thing. I'd use the right tool for the job - which is a puller with a tapered, free-rotating tip.
 
Oh - be sure the washer comes out with the bolt. Many times a previous bit of rtv will keep the washer in place. And if you use the puller with the big washer in place, you'll do a good job of bending the puller. Don't ask how I know that.
 
How much risk are you willing to take? If the balancer lets go, often one piece can launched at rather high speed and do some damage. The serpentine coming off has enough energy to dent the hood. Not to mention what could happen to the rotating assembly (vibration) if you lose the balancer at speed. I wouldn't chance it with mine. Only you can decide for you.
 
Michael Yount said:
If the puller is a good one, it will have a centering tip on it that is not only tapered, but is also free to rotate separate from the main puller screw - it can't hurt the threads. Furthermore, if the balancer's really tight, and you've got the threaded end of the puller sitting flush against the bolt - the center of the puller can 'walk' which isn't a good thing. I'd use the right tool for the job - which is a puller with a tapered, free-rotating tip.


I still don't trust them.....I use the flat rotating tip, against the bolt head.