Is it drivable?88stangmangt said:bolt could be loose............no way to tell unless you pull it off if the hole is oval you might have to rig up a washer deal...
Thanks Mikee,,sounds like its just a muscle job. 2 hours in the street,,not bad,,thanks skoobie.Michael Yount said:It's likely just a bad balancer. You'll need a puller to remove it (Autozone will loan you a puller). Remove the serpentine belt, then remove the crank pulley bolt. Put the car in 4th or 5th gear with the brake firmly set to break the bolt loose. A good long cheater bar will help - it's under 80-120 ft-lbs. of torque. Remove the bolt and washer. Remove the water pump pulley. Install the puller and as you tighten the center bolt of the puller it will pull the balancer off. Install the pump pulley on the new balancer, slide it on far enough to engage the keyway, then use the bolt to install the balancer. Torque to spec. You're done.
Michael Yount said:It's likely just a bad balancer. You'll need a puller to remove it (Autozone will loan you a puller). Remove the serpentine belt, then remove the crank pulley bolt. Put the car in 4th or 5th gear with the brake firmly set to break the bolt loose. A good long cheater bar will help - it's under 80-120 ft-lbs. of torque. Remove the bolt and washer. Remove the water pump pulley. Install the puller and as you tighten the center bolt of the puller it will pull the balancer off. Install the pump pulley on the new balancer, slide it on far enough to engage the keyway, then use the bolt to install the balancer. Torque to spec. You're done.
nice catch - i forgot about mentioning that. very good idea. also, do use an install tool to install the new balancer. some folks say to use the bolt to run it in. i dont like that idea (if the balancer does not hardly slide on the crank snout, you dont want to pull the balancer on with one or two threads of a bolt).cevtv said:Before you install the puller.........put the bolt back in the crank WITHOUT the washer - the puller will push against the bolt head this way, and not mess up the threads in the crank.
Michael Yount said:If the puller is a good one, it will have a centering tip on it that is not only tapered, but is also free to rotate separate from the main puller screw - it can't hurt the threads. Furthermore, if the balancer's really tight, and you've got the threaded end of the puller sitting flush against the bolt - the center of the puller can 'walk' which isn't a good thing. I'd use the right tool for the job - which is a puller with a tapered, free-rotating tip.
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