Baro Sensor problems

[Camman]

I just replaced my barometric pressure sensor in the 89 about 6 months ago. I am now getting code 14 again. When I go to the autoparts store there are 2 different kinds of sensors, and mine is the $90 order only one Anyway, is there anything that would take out a baro sensor? What should I look for to ensure im not spending another 90 in half a year. Thanks for the help

 

[jrichker]

Code 14 is not the BARO sensor. That would explain why you are still getting it after replacing the BARO sensor.

Code 14 - Ignition pickup (PIP) was erratic – the hall effect sensor in the distributor is failing. Bad sensor, bad wiring, dirty contacts. You have to press the distributor gear off the shaft to replace the sensor. The pip signal is used for ignition timing and fuel injector timing.

 

[Demented4.6]

not to steal your thread but Do any of you know if this will work? when I converted my 88 GT to Mass air I was told to just unplug the vac line to the MAP sensor which would make it work as a BAP???

 

[jrichker]

not to steal your thread but Do any of you know if this will work? when I converted my 88 GT to Mass air I was told to just unplug the vac line to the MAP sensor which would make it work as a BAP???

That should work just fine, no problems.

 

[RiceCooker5.0]

Whats the dif between a map sensor and the baro sensor. Did the baro take
the place of the map after 88??

 

[jrichker]

Whats the dif between a map sensor and the baro sensor. Did the baro take
the place of the map after 88??

The MAP & BARO sensors are similar enough to be interchangeable with no noticeable problems. Mass Air stangs use the BARO sensor to determine barometric pressure.

 

[noslow5_0]

baro sensor's vent to the atmosphere while map sensors run a vacuum line off the intake to measure the manifold pressure...

 

[Camman]

Code 14 is not the BARO sensor. That would explain why you are still getting it after replacing the BARO sensor.

Code 14 - Ignition pickup (PIP) was erratic – the hall effect sensor in the distributor is failing. Bad sensor, bad wiring, dirty contacts. You have to press the distributor gear off the shaft to replace the sensor. The pip signal is used for ignition timing and fuel injector timing.

Okay, lol I was looking in the MECS section of my probst book. Sorry about that. I am also running a Continuous code of 67 which is a clutch failure. Any correlation pointing to wiring? Also, is it worth it to replace the hall effect sensor, or should I just buy a new distributor. Also If I do need to buy the distributor should I spring for the mallory or something? This car will be a beast eventually so any parts I can throw at her now I will if it is a necessity to replace anyway. Thanks alot for the help

 

[jrichker]

Code 67 - clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral or park (auto) or the A/C was on when you ran the test (it is supposed to be off). Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. You can generally ignore this code, since it has no effect on engine performance. The code will affect some of the engine running diagnostic tests the computer can do if requested.

Another wise stangneter pointed out that by the time the hall effect sensor starts to die, the bearings are probably worn as well. A replacement distributor is about $60 exchange from Autozone. Be sure to specify a steel gear if you have a roller cam engine.

Putting in a more expensive distributor isn't worth it unless you plans are for NO2 or forced induction.

 

[Camman]

Sorry I should have been more clear. I was asking if there could be any correlation between 67 and 14, I couldnt see any in the wiring diagrams but from my first post I am obviously prone to missing some simple things Thanks for the quick replys. I am checking out distributor rebuild kits and such from my local auto parts stores as we speak. Thanks alot for the help!

Mike