base timing and timing lights

[rockin_rick]

When setting your base idle with the SPOUT connector out, should the timing shown on the balancer be ROCK STEADY? Mine bounces around about 1/2 to 1°. I suspect that my timing light is to blame, as it is old and crappy.

If my timing light is to blame, then does anyone have a suggestion for a good timing light? I don't need one that you can dial in your timing value on (with a knob), just a low cost, basic, inductive pickup, good quality timing light.

Thanks,
Rick

 

[mo_dingo]

When setting your base idle with the SPOUT connector out, should the timing shown on the balancer be ROCK STEADY? Mine bounces around about 1/2 to 1°. I suspect that my timing light is to blame, as it is old and crappy.

If my timing light is to blame, then does anyone have a suggestion for a good timing light? I don't need one that you can dial in your timing value on (with a knob), just a low cost, basic, inductive pickup, good quality timing light.

Thanks,
Rick

Just don't buy a $25 timing light at autozone. Even auto zone has much better onesn for 40-50 bucks.
Scott

 

[bimmertech]

worse case is a stretched t-chain

 

[rockin_rick]

worse case is a stretched t-chain

It's got 3500 miles on it... FRPP part.

The light I've got is equilvant to a $20.00 light, plus it's old and beat up. Are some timing lights more accurate than others? How do you know which ones are the more accurate ones? Is it "you get what you pay for?", or are there brands to avoid or look for?

Again, should it be rock steady?

Rick

 

[NUTCASE]

I got a cheapo light and my eyes just got used to looking at it like that. I can still get my timing just as accurate as anyone elses though.

it could also be the harmonic balancer. but if it is you would be able to actually sit there and watch it wobble all over the place and it would be obviouse

 

[rockin_rick]

The balancer also has 3500 miles on it and is a powerbond SFI unit.

Rick

 

[HISSIN50]

If you pop the dizzy cap off and put a breaker on the crank and turn the motor over a little by hand, is there a bit of 'delay' before the ignition rotor starts to turn? If so, that slop factors in.

I guess I have never used a good enough light because the cheapies do just fine for me. It simply is a conduit.

Good luck.

 

[rockin_rick]

I'll check that out, but the cam (gear) and MSD distro also each have 3500 miles... I suppose that even with 'new' part tolerances, between the timing chain and gear mesh there could be a bit of play.

I guess this begs the question , should it be rock steady? IOW - do 'good' parts not have enough play/slop to cause the reading to bounce? Do all 302's base timing bounce like mine, or does my timing light need replaced?

Thanks guys,
Rick

 

[blksn955.o]

With the spout out is should be steady. I had an issue with mine bouncing and I thought it may be the chain. I needed a tune up anyway and replaced the cap and rotor and bam fixed it.

 

[HISSIN50]

a little oscillation is normal IMHO (even with new parts, there is tolerance in each part). Perhaps with a really expensive timing light, that does not occur.

 

[mo_dingo]

Don't go nuts w/ a new timing light, maybe $50 or so.

The amp clamp on yours may have some corrosion or something inside it....Who knows man.
Scott

 

[194stang]

If your cam has a "lumpy" idle, it will bounce around a little, at least mine does with the e-cam. I dont' think it has to be perfect, just get it as close as you can, a 1/2 degree isnt going to matter much I don't think.

 

[rockin_rick]

I don't have a problem with the bounce as I can average that in my head, but if it's the light that's crappy (bouncing when it shouldn't be), then who knows, the thing's accuracy may be off by a few degrees, too (and also bounce). So it may be flashing at 10 - 10.5, but it's really at 12-12.5.

I guess I was trying to determine that if my light was not supposed to be bouncing (and it is) then maybe it is also reading a few degrees off, too. This would qualify it for replacement.

Without dragging this out more than it needs to be, how does timing light quality (and price) effect it's accuracy (not bounce). So when it flashes at 10, it's actually at 10 (and not say 12).

So about a $50 light is a good value as a basic, accurate light? Are there brands to avoid? How is Actron for quality? Craftsman? I think that Snap-on is out, as it's $$$$$. Is there another brand I should get?


Rick

 

[rockin_rick]

If your cam has a "lumpy" idle, it will bounce around a little, at least mine does with the e-cam. I dont' think it has to be perfect, just get it as close as you can, a 1/2 degree isnt going to matter much I don't think.

I always rev the enigine up a bit (say ~1200 RPMs) to help with this, but still have bouncing...

Rick

 

[194stang]

Well my understanding of how they work is that the light is just triggered on by the no 1 plug firing, I suppose theres a relay of some type in them that gets triggered by this impulse, and I suppose its possible for it to be off some. How about gettin a buddy's light and cross checking them or maybe Autozone has a loaner? if they are both reading about the same I would say your good to go. I just dont like to buy something if I dont have to.

 

[godstangit]

It could be spark scatter, if your distributer has more then 100,000 miles on it.With the spout out, hook up the timing light and rev to about 3500- 4000 rpm, if the timing mark bounces more then 4 degrees, you could have worn distributer bearings, something else to consider.

 

[1slow95]

Mine was bouncing around a good bit and I found the culprit to be moisture in the distributor cap.