Battery draining 89 LX Mustang

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Oct 11, 2018
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Car has been sitting under a cover. Started right up but the next day the battery was dead. Charged it up but it did it again. I bought a new battery and after sitting a few days dead again. Charged it up. I know very little about cars but looked on Youtube (Thanks EricTheCarGuy) and set up my multimeter to the neg cable and neg battery terminal. It showed 3.5 amps. I only found the one fuse box to the left of the drivers seat and pulled out each of the fuses one by one but nothing changed. No visor, dome or hood light was on. If I let the dome light on it would go to around 4. So compared to that somethings really putting a load on. Is that all the fuses I can check? Any suggestion for what someone with my basic level can try further are appreciated. Thanks
 
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Long shot here, it needs to be dark, in a garage or cover the car with a blanket, look for a light on in the instrument panel, glove box, rear hatch/trunk light. also try, Hook up your vom like the car guy showed and unplug the alternator wiring. see if the drain goes away.i
have you installed any aftermarket electronics?
 
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start disconnecting one wire from the solenoid at time and see which circuit it is on. Could be a bad alternator or wiring. Did you do a voltage drop test along the primary circuit .
 
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Long shot here, it needs to be dark, in a garage or cover the car with a blanket, look for a light on in the instrument panel, glove box, rear hatch/trunk light. also try, Hook up your vom like the car guy showed and unplug the alternator wiring. see if the drain goes away.i
have you installed any aftermarket electronics?
Thanks for this and Mikestangs reply. No aftermarket electronics.Everythings oem as far as I know. This is a hatchback. Is there a rear or trunk light? When I lift the hatch I know the main dome light comes on (but it's not on when the hatch is closed). Is there a physical switch for the hood light like what the door and hatchback have? I couldn't see anything in the hood area. I did unplug the hood light just to see but still 3.5 amps being drawn out. I'll have to study up on how to remove the wires from the alternator and solenoid. First I've got to find them (that shows my level!). But I think I'm up to try that. I disconnected the battery and covered the car as some rain is expected the next days but will check it in darkness when the front is past. Would lights like that be drawing that many amps? For what it's worth, two electric related things I noticed when I was driving the car around for the 1st time in quite a while. When I put the new battery in, the dash battery gauge wasn't as high as I expected. Also the dial that controls the dash lighting and dome light wouldn't do anything at first but after moving it around some times started to work.
 
The underhood light has what I think is called a mercury switch, as the hood is lifted contact is made and the light comes on. Like horizontal is off, vertical is on thing.
at the back of the stang, where the latch bolt is there is a hatch light, you should have a plunger switch that activates it. Mine is white and deteriorated so I un pluged it damn! I forgot about that, something else I gotta add to the growing list of things to fix!
somewhere around here is a post on how to find a battery drain, open circuit, that is very user friendly, I'll try to find it, meanwhile get yourself a repair manual since you are kinda green at this automotive repair thing, I think I got mine from motorbooks,
 
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Normal draw when at rest should be pretty low. Under 1/4 AMP or so and that's usually voltage the radio or any security systems uses to store the stations and stay passive.

If pulling fuses doesn't relieve the car of that 3.5A draw, you'll need to investigate the wiring on the starter solenoid. Disconnect them all and do the same thing checking with your meter in series.

My guess, it's the silver circuit breaker on the solenoid that has the drain.
 
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The underhood light has what I think is called a mercury switch, as the hood is lifted contact is made and the light comes on. Like horizontal is off, vertical is on thing.
at the back of the stang, where the latch bolt is there is a hatch light, you should have a plunger switch that activates it. Mine is white and deteriorated so I un pluged it damn! I forgot about that, something else I gotta add to the growing list of things to fix!
somewhere around here is a post on how to find a battery drain, open circuit, that is very user friendly, I'll try to find it, meanwhile get yourself a repair manual since you are kinda green at this automotive repair thing, I think I got mine from motorbooks,
Left to me by deceased relative a long time ago. It just sits except for a few times a year when relatives come and I drive it around so they can have the other car. I mentioned above that everythings original except I forgot I changed the lights to more modern looking ones when one got broken.If that might have any connection. So there is a light in the hatchback area near the back latch? I'll have a second look. Never noticed it. The plunger switch there turns on the dome light in the front. If I take the bulb out of the hood light could it still be drawing power? Thanks for the info!
 
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Normal draw when at rest should be pretty low. Under 1/4 AMP or so and that's usually voltage the radio or any security systems uses to store the stations and stay passive.

If pulling fuses doesn't relieve the car of that 3.5A draw, you'll need to investigate the wiring on the starter solenoid. Disconnect them all and do the same thing checking with your meter in series.

My guess, it's the silver circuit breaker on the solenoid that has the drain.
Appreciate your comment. I'm going to try that next. By the way is it just a matter of releasing a lock on the wire with a screwdriver to get it loose or do I unscrew the nuts on the solenoid to release the wires? Thanks
 
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Sounds like you are on the right track and have been given good advice. I also agree that if you did the parasitic draw test as per Eric the Car Guy and pulled all the fuses with no changes I'd suspect the alternator however as mentioned the starter might be a good place to look as well. Another clue is to feel the alternator and starter with our hand. Usually they will feel warm to the touch if they are drawing power.
 
Recently I found my wiper motor to be a constantly draw and actually getting warm to the touch for no reason. I disconnected for the time being because I'm currently troubleshooting a fuel issue with the car but worth a look.
 
The car has been covered and just got uncovered. I left the battery on overnight and sure enough the alternator was warm. I had auto zone run their test and they said some diodes were out so it failed one part of the 2 part test. Got a replacement and this morning it was nice and cool and the battery was 12.5 instead of 11.5 after sitting one night. Thanks a lot for all the replies. A big help!
 
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