Battery Relo to Trunk Help Please

joesgt281 · Oct 1, 2006

Anybody got pics of their box install?
I started out with two different style boxes and neither are working out.
I've got a 67 FB.
I am wanting to mount mine over the right frame rail.
The Taylor aluminum box is so big that getting the battery out of it after an install will likely require taking out the whole box. Plus, the top of the frame here is so unlevel that I'm sure sinching down the battery will completely distort the bottom of the box. I suppose I could cut different size rubber grommets under the box to level it, but the previously mentioned issue makes me less inclined to work this issue.
I have a Summit plastic box, which is alot smaller, but the hold-down bracket that came with it actually doesn't even fit inside the box (???).
Any help would be appreciated.
Joe

Tim65GT · Oct 1, 2006

I have the summit plastic box, but I thought it was big. I mounted it with the two long threaded rods that came with the kit, and used 1/2" - 1" wood blocks under it to support and level it over the right frame rail. I also cut off the spare tire hook bracket to make it sit good. The vent tube goes down to the factory hole that normally has a plug it it and the tube sticks thru about an inch. The fuse/distribution panel was kinda overkill, but I was planning for future mods. I finished it back in July... so far no problems.

Next project...Big Aluminum Radiator...

joesgt281 · Oct 2, 2006

ok i think i see a bit of the problem....when people say they are using the Summit box, it must be the one you used.
I just pulled up the Summit site and you have the Premium Box.
Mine is the dinky little one that you most commonly see in boats
View attachment 436660
You've done an awesome job and the pics really show it well.
I've removed the spare hold-down as well and plan to move it to the drivers side.

hurt · Oct 2, 2006

I used the AFCO tray from summit with an optima. So far no problems.

joesgt281 · Oct 2, 2006

Thanks Hurt.
Just out of curiosity, are you going for NHRA legal?
Their rules say you either have to have a sealed box, or have to have a divider plate from the trunk to the interior.
I'm not sure whether my fastback access panel (or seat in a coupe) constitutes an adequate divider.

jamison42166 · Oct 2, 2006

I love the way you ran your wiring and fusebox... do you have a picture of your engine compartment? i am wanting to rewire my car and do stealth wiring on it as much as possible

joesgt281 · Oct 2, 2006

jamison42166 said:
I love the way you ran your wiring and fusebox... do you have a picture of your engine compartment? i am wanting to rewire my car and do stealth wiring on it as much as possible

boy no kidding!
and where do you get those cool fuse link blocks and termination goodies?

Tim65GT · Oct 2, 2006

The NHRA rules don't say anything about sealed optima type batteries. Maybe some one knows of an update? You'd think the primary reason for having the battery sealed would be the explosive gas in the battery (besides the obvious liquid acid). An Optima has neither.

I've had the metal divider behind my seat for a while, but for different reason... the gas tank issue.

The reason I went with a sealed & vented battery box was because of the corrosive properties of the conventional lead-acid battery.

hurt · Oct 2, 2006

No racing here, just wanted something cheap and simple to get the battery out of the engine compartment.

joesgt281 · Oct 2, 2006

hurt said:
No racing here, just wanted something cheap and simple to get the battery out of the engine compartment.

that was really my intention too, but then one thing leads to another and another.....

That AFCO piece looks like it would be very easy to install and to get the battery in and out of. I really like the way they designed the hold-down.

joesgt281 · Oct 4, 2006

OK here's where I'm headed with this now.
The reason the Taylor box limited the battery removal was because I had it positioned pretty far forward to get it off the angled bumper reinforcement. To address this, and the non-level frame rail, I notched a piece of 3/4" plywood to straddle the reinforcement. This works out well for a flat surface that's far enough back that I can get the battery out of the box. I'm not through, but this will give some idea:

jasonn · Oct 4, 2006

This is all I did.

joesgt281 · Oct 4, 2006

jasonn said:
This is all I did.

nice!
what is that that is covering the floor, etc?
looks like something i might want to do.

67Dylan · Oct 4, 2006

To the guys who did the rear mount battery; Where did you guys mount your battery cutoff switch?

gp001 · Oct 4, 2006

This thread has the details on how I did mine

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=4814737#post4814737

Tim65GT · Oct 4, 2006

jamison42166
I love the way you ran your wiring and fusebox... do you have a picture of your engine compartment? i am wanting to rewire my car and do stealth wiring on it as much as possible

What part were you interested in? It's hard to get a picture of something you can't see very well. I routed the Starter cable and Alternator wire through grommets just below the heater. I might have issues when I add headers someday, but There is plenty of room I think.

joesgt281

boy no kidding!
and where do you get those cool fuse link blocks and termination goodies?

Here's a link when I posted earlier pics:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=644722

Rusty67 · Oct 5, 2006

Don't mean to hijack, but....

I got a question for you guys who built your own battery cables. How the hell did you guys crimp those connectors down ? The only tools I've seen to crimp battery lugs are like 150-300 dollars. I think this is a bit expensive just to be able to crimp battery lugs and terminals onto some heavy gauge wire. I don't want to use pre-terminated ends, what other choices are there ?

joesgt281 · Oct 5, 2006

Rusty67 said:
Don't mean to hijack, but....

I got a question for you guys who built your own battery cables. How the hell did you guys crimp those connectors down ? The only tools I've seen to crimp battery lugs are like 150-300 dollars. I think this is a bit expensive just to be able to crimp battery lugs and terminals onto some heavy gauge wire. I don't want to use pre-terminated ends, what other choices are there ?

I soldered mine.
I wadded up a bunch of solder and stuck it in the terminal, heated it up with a propane torch, and stabbed the stripped wire in.

joesgt281 · Oct 5, 2006

Tim65GT said:
Here's a link when I posted earlier pics:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=644722

Nice!
Bookmarked!

67Dylan · Oct 5, 2006

67Dylan said:
To the guys who did the rear mount battery; Where did you guys mount your battery cutoff switch?

So does that mean nobody runs a batt cutoff switch? I know those running at a track have to...

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