Battery Relo to Trunk Help Please

joesgt281 · Oct 5, 2006

67Dylan said:
So does that mean nobody runs a batt cutoff switch? I know those running at a track have to...

He's using a flaming river c/o switch.
This wouldn't be legit for the track since you have to pop the trunk to get to it.

jasonn · Oct 5, 2006

Rusty67 said:
Don't mean to hijack, but....

I got a question for you guys who built your own battery cables. How the hell did you guys crimp those connectors down ? The only tools I've seen to crimp battery lugs are like 150-300 dollars. I think this is a bit expensive just to be able to crimp battery lugs and terminals onto some heavy gauge wire. I don't want to use pre-terminated ends, what other choices are there ?

Yep, I agree. I went to a couple different napa stores. They did it for me. Also if you have any tractor supply companies, or diesel semi repair shops?? Check them. They cut them to my length, crimped, soldered, and shrink wrapped them for me. turned out nice.

jasonn · Oct 5, 2006

67Dylan said:
To the guys who did the rear mount battery; Where did you guys mount your battery cutoff switch?

Pics in this thread.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=619339

You can see the switch. Since I am using a cell, I took the gas cap and neck out and turned a custom aluminum piece that bolted right in place of the neck.

joesgt281 - that is just some cheap automotive carpet I got at the local menards store.

thehueypilot · Oct 5, 2006

Rusty67 said:
Don't mean to hijack, but....

I got a question for you guys who built your own battery cables. How the hell did you guys crimp those connectors down ? The only tools I've seen to crimp battery lugs are like 150-300 dollars. I think this is a bit expensive just to be able to crimp battery lugs and terminals onto some heavy gauge wire. I don't want to use pre-terminated ends, what other choices are there ?

I just bought a manual crimper for about $40. It looks like a little anvil and you position the terminal in it with the wire and hit it with a hammer. I used it on my relocation project with the welding cables and it worked very well. I got it at a local industrial supply store.

joesgt281 · Oct 5, 2006

67Dylan said:
So does that mean nobody runs a batt cutoff switch? I know those running at a track have to...

Coolest stealth one that I've seen is put through one of the backup lamps in the rear valance. Since the terminals would be exposed to rain at this point, I would think it would required some significant weatherproofing.

I've also seen it thru the taillamp, which eliminates the above problem, but not a method I am going to use.

Rusty67 · Oct 5, 2006

jasonn said:
Pics in this thread.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=619339

You can see the switch. Since I am using a cell, I took the gas cap and neck out and turned a custom aluminum piece that bolted right in place of the neck.

joesgt281 - that is just some cheap automotive carpet I got at the local menards store.

That battery cut off switch looks bitchen man.

gp001 · Oct 7, 2006

jamison42166 said:
I love the way you ran your wiring and fusebox... do you have a picture of your engine compartment? i am wanting to rewire my car and do stealth wiring on it as much as possible

I know you didn't ask me, but I thought I would throw this out.

I mounted all of my electronics to the divider board between the trunk and rear compartment. If you look at the pic I posted from the trunk side you can see the cut off switch and the solenoid (late model "falt version"). Now, look at this pic and you will see the back side. I mounted all of my electronics to a piece of lexan and mounted that to the divider board. If you look at the nut/bolt on the right side you will see how I grounded the starter solenoid. That is also the ground point for all of the electronics.

To access this panel all I have to do is remove four bolts from the mounts (you can see 2 of them in the trunk side pic) and the panel lays in the trunk for easy access.

gp001 · Oct 7, 2006

Rusty67 said:
Don't mean to hijack, but....

I got a question for you guys who built your own battery cables. How the hell did you guys crimp those connectors down ? The only tools I've seen to crimp battery lugs are like 150-300 dollars. I think this is a bit expensive just to be able to crimp battery lugs and terminals onto some heavy gauge wire. I don't want to use pre-terminated ends, what other choices are there ?

I got a little creative. I used the clamp from one of those cheap tube flaring kists and the hammer end of a punch. Whacked it with a hammer and the crimps came out great. After the crimp I soldered and covered the connection with heat shrink

joesgt281 · Oct 7, 2006

Dang GP, you're my hero!!!!

Rusty67 · Oct 7, 2006

I talked to a guy at an alternator shop about 2 days ago, this guy really knew his stuff. He said that for any alternator making over 100amps to not even bother with criping. He said solder everything to make sure you are geting your money's worth out of the high amp alternators. So I guess soldering is the route for me.

GP, that crimp looks damn fine =-)

Battery Relo to Trunk Help Please

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