Battery Relocation... How difficult is it??

I did the morroso box with 00 gauge welding cable. I have no starting issuses at all and get 14.7 volts at idle :)
I went for the clean no showing cables route.
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switch, behind the plate.
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It took me and a friend almost all day to do this.. But I like it
 
the kit is only like 120 with the aluminum box. I'm gonna install it at some point when i can stand the cold long enough to get it done. Frees up a lotta space in the engine bay(although my aftercooler will be there), moves some weight over the rear tires, and makes wiring a system much easier.
 
stang2841 said:
would it be worth it on a street driven car? thats almost daily driven?
It would look clean under the hood without a battery...

That depends. It makes the car handle better because you even out weight distribution and makes room for power adders. The main reason that this is done is to take weight off the nose.
 
An 'average' fox body weighs around 3100 lbs. give or take, and has about 58% of it's weight on the front wheels - about 1800 lbs. Shifting the battery to the back moves approx. 40-50 lbs. from front to rear, changing that weight distribution from 58/42 to 56.5/43.5. After the battery relocate, replacing the cast iron boat anchors, uh, I mean heads (I'm not prejudiced) with aluminum units eliminates another 50 lbs. from the front of the car reducing the weight to 3050, and further changing the weight distribution to 56/44. Those changes make a noticeable difference in handling. Is it worth it? Only you can decide that.
 
You can get a marine battery box (black plastic) from autozone for about twelve bucks-I don't run mine at the track, so rules don't much matter. I used 2 gauge wire for mine, starts instantly- based on that I think anything bigger is overkill. I'm OK with overkill, just too lazy to try to bend that heavy **** around corners! I ran mine behind rear seats and under carpet driver's side through rubber steering shaft grommet to stock location. Remove driver's side door sill to run wire. My Optima is a sealed battery so I'm not worried about venting, and the idea of running battery cable and fuel lines together under the car exposed to road debris makes my scrotum crawl. :shock:

P.S.- Domo arigato sensei Yount for the front/rear weight ratio deltas, hadn't run the math before.

P.P.S.- Not to hijack, but anyone done a list of things to improve front/rear weight balance (other than not driving a Mustang)? :)

P.P.P.S.- What percent does weight balance shift for each additional inch of engine setback?
 
2 gauge is minimum IMO. 2-2 gauge is ok. I run 1/0. I had 4/0 but that was too big. I can get almost any size cable for free whenever there is an install at my work. 4, 1/0 and 4/0 are the most common. Every now again I can get some mcm 350 and 750. You can use the last two as bumpers.
 
Anyone done the Summit Racing battery relocation kit they always have listed in their Mustang specific ads?

I bought one...hoping it will work, but waiting for feedback before I decide to install or return it.

My car sees track time, but at Steele, AL where the only "check" is some woman making you sign a waiver and pay $10 to run all night, so plastic case won't be an issue.

I am more concerned about the wire type in the Summit box. Please let me know if it has worked for anyone.