BBK LT Headers - worth cleaning up the welds?

[GRGT1994]

I got a set of BBK LT headers, and noticed that there is a bit of weld bubble around the inside just at the flange. There also is some really minor crud just inside too (looks like ceramic coating, and its in small grains - like large grains of sand). The sand sized crud is pretty minimal and only in a few tubes.

So what I was wondering is, is it worth it to take a dremel and smooth over that stuff?

To fill you in on the rest of the build, I am doing an h/c/i kit (TFS Street heat) with supporting mods (fuel system, MAF, TB). So I should be flowing much better than stock once I am done.

I guess the only down side I can see to doing some clean up is that I might grind through the ceramic coating and promote corrosion (or I guess worst case I could go too far and mess up the welds - but I don't think I am THAT ham handed). On the other hand, I don't think that BBK coats the inside of their headers with ceramic coating.

What do you guys think?

 

[CManT1914]

I think you made a good choice on the H/C/I, that's the same stuff I'm going with. I really don't think grinding down those welds are gonna help any. They aren't gonna restrict flow that much. My MAC shorty's have the same thing, and I'm not worried about it. You would maybe gain 1 hp, TOPS, lol. Not worth the trouble if you ask me.

 

[GRGT1994]

It just hit me that I finally have a reason to create a signature. So here's what's going in on my end.

 

[CManT1914]

It just hit me that I finally have a reason to create a signature. So here's what's going in on my end.

I love updating my sig, it's like a fetish of mine. I can't wait until that "In Progress" becomes "Installed". What are the specs on that AFM cam? When you said H/C/I TFS I thought you were using the Stage 1 cam too.

 

[GRGT1994]

I bought the kit from TFS, but Charlie (tech at TFS) recommended not using their cam because of the computer and idle issues on our computers (94-95). He suggested talking to Anderson Ford Motorsports (Rick is the tech there). So Charlie deleted the cam from the kit and gave me a spacer and sn-95 elbow instead (saved a few bucks on that trade). Then I went with the b-31 cam.

The up side of this setup is that it is supposed to be very streetable, even without a computer tune (no dyno, no Tweecer, etc). The only down side is that I am leaving maybe 10 hp on the table. I can handle that.

 

[GRGT1994]

Anyone else?

 

[zenboy99]

My BBK headers were pretty bad too, that "crud" was in my header flange so I couldn't screw in the studs.

I also took a dremel tool to the inside of the headers. If you clean those up, I bet its worth more then one horsepower. Dave Bassani told me thats a crucial area for exhaust flow, smooth it out and you'll get less laminar flow wich means better over all flow.

By the way, take that AFM power pipe and toss it in the garbage.

 

[CManT1914]

By the way, take that AFM power pipe and toss it in the garbage.

Why?

 

[final5-0]

I don't see any reason not to clean things up a little as what could it hurt.

Bolt the header up to the head with just a couple of bolts and check to see how much the header covers the port.

That could be way more of a prob than a little slag here and there.

Later
Grady

 

[gmkillr]

When I installed mu BBk longtubes I dremeled out all of the ports in mine. I look at it this way, It definately cant hurt, just maybe help a little. IMO, its worth the 30 mins. or so it takes!

 

[fiveohh94gt]

The up side of this setup is that it is supposed to be very streetable, even without a computer tune (no dyno, no Tweecer, etc). The only down side is that I am leaving maybe 10 hp on the table. I can handle that.

without a tune your probably going to be leaving more than 10hp, my first pull was like 258rwhp and after a few reburns of the chip it was at 280rwhp. and for as little effort as it takes, why not go ahead and clean up the welds, i did on mine. bbk's welds are pretty thick so i doubt your going to grind all the way through anywhere

 

[final5-0]

without a tune your probably going to be leaving more than 10hp, my first pull was like 258rwhp and after a few reburns of the chip it was at 280rwhp. and for as little effort as it takes, why not go ahead and clean up the welds, i did on mine. bbk's welds are pretty thick so i doubt your going to grind all the way through anywhere

I agree about the tune.

Heck, you'll pick up 10rwhp on Stocker with just fuel/spark table tweecs.

Later
Grady

 

[VibrantRedGT]

I had to clean up Green94's BBK headers too. They were suppose to be 1 5/8 but with all the weld build up it was more like 1 inch. Air compressor and die grinder did the trick in 2 minutes.

 

[zenboy99]

Check the collector too, mine were about 2.1" not 2.5", I opened up those too.

Wait til you put the AFM power pipe on. Mine hits the alternator, I have to take it OFF to get my oil fill cap off and it doesn't come with a connector to the firewall. You'll have to jimmy something up to get it solid in the fenderwell hole, otherwise it will just bounce around when you drive. If you have an aluminum welder you can weld a bracket on to it and attach it to the firewall. I just lined the entire hole with rubber and it sits pretty tight, but now its a b**ch to get out. You can only use a tiny 4" filter cause thats the only thing that will fit in the fenderwell. There's no spot for the oil breather line coming from the oil cap so I had to drill a hole into the pipe for it. Its definitely not worth ~$200, I would just make your own.

The cheap bastards at AFM wouldn't let me return it because it was all dinged up. I told them it was all dinged up because they couldn't make it to fit. A rep from AFM told me its not really made for street cars.

 

[CManT1914]

Check the collector too, mine were about 2.1" not 2.5", I opened up those too.

Wait til you put the AFM power pipe on. Mine hits the alternator, I have to take it OFF to get my oil fill cap off and it doesn't come with a connector to the firewall. You'll have to jimmy something up to get it solid in the fenderwell hole, otherwise it will just bounce around when you drive. If you have an aluminum welder you can weld a bracket on to it and attach it to the firewall. I just lined the entire hole with rubber and it sits pretty tight, but now its a b**ch to get out. You can only use a tiny 4" filter cause thats the only thing that will fit in the fenderwell. There's no spot for the oil breather line coming from the oil cap so I had to drill a hole into the pipe for it. Its definitely not worth ~$200, I would just make your own.

The cheap bastards at AFM wouldn't let me return it because it was all dinged up. I told them it was all dinged up because they couldn't make it to fit. A rep from AFM told me its not really made for street cars.

Yea the fitment on the Powerpipes isn't that great, but they're the only CAI's that work with a lot of MAFs. You're right about it bouncing around in the fender, my MAF has come disconnected from the pipe 3 times now. It is NOT fun trying to reconnect it in a gas station parking lot in teh rain at 2 in the morning with no tools and no light. The freaking oil fill cap is a PITA to get off now, although I don't have to take the powerpipe off to get it off. I just drilled a hole in one of the rubber couplings for my PCV hose.

 

[zenboy99]

I don't mind doing a little fabrication, but if I'm paying that much money for something made for 94-95 5 Liters, it should fit a heck of alot better, or at least make a little disclaimer.

Is your pipe hitting the alternator?

 

[CManT1914]

I don't mind doing a little fabrication, but if I'm paying that much money for something made for 94-95 5 Liters, it should fit a heck of alot better, or at least make a little disclaimer.

Is your pipe hitting the alternator?

I know what you mean, I hate thinking something is gonna bolt right up, then find out I have to do some custom work. I've come to expect it now though. Mine's not hitting the alternator, but it comes damn close.

 

[GRGT1994]

without a tune your probably going to be leaving more than 10hp

I'm sure you are right that a tune would pick up a bunch. But that's not what I was talking about. I was comparing the B31 to the TFS cam. If both are tuned or untuned, I am probably only about 10 hp under, just comparing cam to cam. And that's worth the benefit of getting it up and running well without a custom dyno tune IMHO.

 

[mytight95]

GRGT94..... sorry to spam up your post etc.., but i would love some info pics, and a description of the MGW shifter in your sig....

I am contemplating one, main reason being that they are not supposed to transmit vibration, can you help me out... Thanks for your time..


jason