BBK SSI,AFR 165, koeo #96, Koer #12 + 13, + Sluggish

The whistle is probably from the bbk throttle body. I have one and it whistles loudly between 900 and 1200 rpms. As long as your checking things out you might as well readjust the valves to eliminate that.

The whistling is the throttle body. I have the same one. You can send it back to be modded by BBK if it whistles. I don't know what the mod is, probably grinding somewhere. I haven't sent mine back. I have a LOUD Vortech supercharger. It overides the whistling pretty much.

Jim

Setting the valve lash...

You aren't really setting a "lash", unless you are running a solid lifter.

If you are running a hydraulic lifter, you are setting a preload on the lifter. That means you turn the nut to "zero lash",(where the pushrod spins), then preload about .030 of an inch on the lifter. I set the .030 with a paperclip between the piston of the lifter and the 'clip/retainer. Some lifters have a tighter preload tolerance like about .010. I have blown the retainers off those setting them at zero lash for cam break-in. If you don't have the intake off, then you will have to go by what AFR says for setting your "lash"/preload. They will say how many turns on the nut that will give you the correct preload. You really don't have to be as accurate like you do with the solid lifters. I don't know what thread is on your rocker studs, so I can't tell you how many turns is .030.

But to answer your question, no, it won't matter with the hydraulics as long as you get close to the right preload, +/- 1/2 turn, but the solids will matter, you will hear considerable noise if they are set too loose.

Code 12 and 13.....

Make sure you turn the key OFF after each test. If you run the KOER test after running the KOEO, with out turnning the key to off, you will get these codes.

After setting/doing anything, turn the key off. Then you can run the tests. Believe me, I have been there the past few weeks.....

Code 96...

I got this one time when my fuse for the fuel pump was falling out of the fuse panel.

Hope this helps,

Jim

Code 96 – KOEO- Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power - Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits. The fuel pump lost power at some time while the ignition switch was in the run position.

Look for a failing fuel pump relay, bad connections or broken wiring. The fuel pump relay is located under the Mass Air Meter on Fox bodied stangs built after 91. On earlier model cars is under the passenger seat. On Mass Air Conversions, the signal lead that tells the computer that the fuel pump has power may not have been wired correctly. See http://www.stangnet.com/tech/maf/massairconversion.html

To help troubleshoot the 96 code , follow this link for a wiring diagram for 87-90 models http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

for 91-93 models see http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195960.gif

Look for power at the fuel pump - the fuel pump has a connector at the rear of the car with a pink/black wire and a black wire that goes to the fuel pump. The pink/black wire should be hot when the test connector is jumpered to the test position. . To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. it. No voltage when jumpered, check the fuel pump relay and fuse links.

86-90 Models:
Using the diagram, check the red/black wire from the fuel pump relay: you should see 12 volts or so. If not, check the inertia switch: on a hatch it is on the drivers side by the taillight. Look for a black rubber plug that pops out: if you don't find it, then loosen up the plastic trim. Check for voltage on both sides of the switch. If there is voltage on both sides, then check the Pink/black wire on the fuel pump relay: it is the power feed to the fuel pump. Good voltage there, then the fuel pump is the likely culprit since it is getting power. No voltage there, check the Orange/Lt blue wire, it is the power feed to the fuel pump relay & has a fuse link in it. Good voltage there & at the Pink/black wire, swap the relay.

91-93 Models:
Using the diagram, check the dark green/yellow wire from the fuel pump relay: you should see 12 volts or so. If not the relay has failed or is intermittent. Check the inertia switch: on a hatch it is on the drivers side by the taillight. Look for a black rubber plug that pops out: if you don't find it, then loosen up the plastic trim. Check for voltage on both sides of the switch. If there is voltage on both sides, then check the Pink/black wire on the fuel pump relay: it is the power feed to the fuel pump. Good voltage there, then the fuel pump is the likely culprit since it is getting power. No voltage there, check the Pink/black wire, it is the power feed to the fuel pump relay & has a fuse link in it. Good voltage there & at the dark green/yellow wire, swap the relay.

No limp mode on any of the codes you posted. A loss of fuel pressure while driving would cause a power loss. Clear the codes and recheck after a week. Sometimes the 96 code is a result of tinkering with the car rather than a serious fault

Maybe its just me, but it sounds like kind of a mismatched combo. The AFR heads and SSI intake are both going to want to rev a little to make max power, and hes not going ot get that with the stock cam. But I think the real hold up is the 2.73's and the fact thats its a heavy vert. Just my .02

Marlboro_Man said:

Any more ideas?

Click to expand...

What is the intial timing set to with the spout out?

Go back and readjust the pre-load on the lifters.
It's really simple and we can walk you through it.
To tight and you can lose power.
Don't need that when you have a stock cam and 2.73 gears
Gears are the biggest killer here, the stock cam doesn't help. But the torque should be great with the stock cam, BBK intake and volicity friendly 165's. He should have around 250whp with the stock exhaust and combo of parts. So, if it doesn't feel healthy with torque, the chances are it's a combo of missadjusted lifter pre load and timing not dailed in.