Beeping Noise?

[jozsefsz]

Hey there, you may just need a new TPS. If you have a voltmeter, check voltage at each of the wire leads first. Those things do wear out over time. Looks like you may have a nice scanner, if it does real-time data displays look at your TPS voltage. It should be somewhere between 0.8 and 1.2 with your foot off the gas. If it is then your wiring is probably just fine. If it's lower then the wiring or connector might be a problem, or the TPS might need adjustment to get you to the correct initial voltage. Then move the pedal up and down slowly and see if you can find a flat-spot where it drops out to near zero. That would mean you definitely need a new TPS.

From before - it may just have been coincidental - "There's also the remote possibility that you set the TPS code without having anything to do with the airbag. Legit causes are a bad TPS, low voltage / poor ground at the TPS, or holding your foot on the gas when starting." Since your code is a low-voltage code, it's not the holding-your-foot-on-the-gas thing.

 

[95Stangpa]

I think it was coincidental before. I am going to pick up a new TPS right now since they have it on hand. The OBD two scanner that I have is the one that connects to your phone through Bluetooth. My son-in-law lend it to me so I really don't know all it does yet.
I'm thinking this TPS was bad. The problem with mine I see you're supposed to calibrate some of them. Is it just has two perfectly circles for holes. So there's really no way to adjust it.
Looks like I have to remove a few things at the back of the motor to get to the screw for it.
I don't know how I could ground the TPS. Unless you need the ground wire going to it? Please bear with me I'm just trying to understand.
I don't know how I could ground the TPS. Unless you need the ground wire going to it? Please bear with me I'm just trying to understand.
No I never put my foot on the gas while starting it I never have to. It starts right up

 

[95Stangpa]

Okay my buddy stopped over who is a tech at Subaru... I know....

Anyhow, he did three different tests with the volt meter I have and said the TPS is the issue.

However I "cannot" get those two screws out for the life of me.

Not a lot of room to get to them, but I even snapped vice grips on the head and couldn't budge them.

I am going to buy a can of freeze off tomorrow and see if making the aluminum housing really cold will shrink and let the screws come out.

Unless there's a better method?

 

[jozsefsz]

Try the freeze-off on the bolts and not the housing, make them smaller and they may come out more easily. Those are a son of a gun I dread having to pull the TPS myself. If I recall correctly I removed the IAC to get a little more room to get to it. I'm not aware of a better way unfortunately, if someone else is I'd love to hear it too.

Oh, and a TPS is a TPS on pretty much every car they're the same. So a good Subaru tech can troubleshoot it just fine.

 

[95Stangpa]

Well I tried today with the freeze off and failed terribly. LOL
That's the first time that stuff let me down.
I'm going to remove those four nuts...then get a new gasket, I really don't know what that's called? Where the throttle linkages are?
That way I can put it on the workbench in I'll get them out then.

 

[95Stangpa]

Well I tried today with the freeze off and failed terribly. LOL
That's the first time that stuff let me down.
I'm going to remove those four large nuts...then get a new gasket, I really don't know what that's called? Where the throttle linkages are?
That way I can put it on the workbench in I'll get them out then.

 

[General karthief]

Throttle body?

 

[95Stangpa]

I'm not sure. That's probably it. Has the four nuts and the throttle linkage hooks to it. Looks like there's a gasket I'll need in between there.
I have to remove that in get it in my work bench to get those screws out of the TPS.

 

[95Stangpa]

I bought th throttle body gasket. So I can pull it to change the TPS.
Is there anything special I should know before removing these 4 nuts and the cables...etc?

 

[General karthief]

Yea, depending on their condition, some times the studs get ate up by electrolysis, water flowing through the egr plate, and make sure the egr plate mating surfaces are good. Good time to clean that egr valve too.

 

[95Stangpa]

Crap I knew it looked to easy. I'll spray some PB on those 4 studs and hopefully the nuts come of easy. Unless I'm misunderstanding what you meant.
It looked like 4 nuts then the throttle linkage. I didn't look that well yet, but I didn't know the EGR was there.
I bought a new gasket, I guess no silicone? Just clean and use gasket?
Hopefully I don't overtighten the nuts. Ugh
If this TPS would have came off, I wouldn't have to remove this. But the screws won't budge

 

[General karthief]

Crap I knew it looked to easy. I'll spray some PB on those 4 studs and hopefully the nuts come of easy. Unless I'm misunderstanding what you meant.
It looked like 4 nuts then the throttle linkage. I didn't look that well yet, but I didn't know the EGR was there.
I bought a new gasket, I guess no silicone? Just clean and use gasket?
Hopefully I don't overtighten the nuts. Ugh
If this TPS would have came off, I wouldn't have to remove this. But the screws won't budge

If you have not taken the tb off yet try this,
Take a good scew driver that fits well, hold it tightly and with pressure in the direction to loosen it, tap the screw driver on top with a small hammer, I think the factory puts some kind of locktight on them, just tap the screw driver, there is no real pressure there, it's just a screw holding a piece of plastic.
Removing the tb nuts is not the problem, separating the egr plate with the studs all goobered up from electrolysis can be, if you've ever replaced a water pump or timing cover on one of these cars thats been there for 100k it's similar,

 

[95Stangpa]

I did try and tap the screws, but not much room to do that. I used a stubby screw driver, and it barely fits in there.
I sprayed freeze off and that usually gets me out of a jamb, but it failed me for the first time. Somehow I missed seeing the EGR. I dunno how. I did buy the gasket, was going to do it this weekend.
i was wondering if they used a mild loc tite. They do seem locked in there pretty well.
My wife has been using it daily for work, so I haven't been able to get under the hood. I'm trying to get her car road worthy to get my Mustang back.


I seen on youtube the egr sits further back away from the throttle body. Is there a reason to remove that, when only taking the end of the throttle body end off?

I caught it on this video....I didn't know they made so much cool stuff for this car. I am new to Mustang!


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jiSrujGvpdE&t=130s




.

 

[General karthief]

Ok, I forget we are dealing with a 1, a 95 and 2, by the video, a V6, sorry, forget what I said about the egr and the crud buildup stuff, just yank that puppy off and use vise grips

 

[95Stangpa]

Thank you! I appreciate it.
Well my tranny took a crap today.
I made a new thread, but I'm sure it's tired. Oh well, my luck.
I posted on it. I can't win... ugh!!!

 

[95Stangpa]

Never mind tranny was low a quart.

I got my wife's car done. Going to pull my Stang in the garage tomorrow.
That black throttle cable I don't want to break. Does that just pop off? I didn't want to force it and break it.

 

[95Stangpa]

OK I finally got the chance to put the throttle positioning sensor on. I remove the throttlebody and used Vice Grips to get the screws out. I put new screws in with anti-seize.

The throttlebody was so filthy inside. I had to use a brass brush, with throttlebody cleaner to get it nice. That was terrible. People do not take care of their cars.

When I first started it up, it idled a little high at like 1800 RPM.
Then it slowly came down to 1000.

When I put it in gear it went to 650, after driving it a couple mile and bringing it back. It's idling at about 800 now and 650 in gear. Like it had to learn??

Unless it's my imagination, I know the TPS has nothing to do with it but the throttlebody was terrifying inside. It seems to be pulling out much smoother like silk. It's just a different response it's hard to describe although it could be a placebo effect with me.
Because it was fine before. Just seems better for some reason.

The check engine light went out on its own. As soon as I put the new part on and started it.

I hooked my scanner up anyhow no codes showed up but I still hit clear just for the heck of it.

 

[General karthief]

I hope that resolved the issues.

 

[95Stangpa]

Thank you, me too. I was surprised the CEL went out on its own.
My buddy did check it for power going to it according to the diy stuff on here. He did say it had the be the TPS. Hopefully it was it.

 

[95Stangpa]

I meant to say that he checked those 3 wires for the voltages and their doing what their supposed to. So hopefully repaired...