Best Auto Tranny cooler?

[prsrizdgt]

I am not 100% sure about this but, most sources seem to indicate that the fluid flows from the tranny to the lower radiator connection and then up the radiator to the top connector and back to the transmission. This never made sense to me as I thought it would be better flowing down. Maybe the fluid would flow too fast through the cooler if it went from top to bottom

You want to monitor the fluid temperature before the radiator on the bottom line and cool the fluid after it comes out of the radiator at the top line.

The quote below is from the A/T - Cooler Flushing Service Tips page for the 2001 Ford Mustang GT on www.alldata.com. I believe the data comes straight from the Ford service manual.



According to this info if you follow the top line from the transmission case to the transmission cooler in the radiator it confirms that the top line is the return line from the cooler to the transmission.

Maybe I am missing something on this, but in the diagram is shows that the top line(#1) is the fluid cooler inlet, and the bottom line (#2) is the fluid cooler outlet.....this would indicate to me that the fluid is in fact moving from the top to the bottom so the bottom line is the return line to the trans, therefore the one you would install the aux cooler in. What am I missing???

 

[rjstaaf]

Maybe I am missing something on this, but in the diagram is shows that the top line(#1) is the fluid cooler inlet, and the bottom line (#2) is the fluid cooler outlet.....this would indicate to me that the fluid is in fact moving from the top to the bottom so the bottom line is the return line to the trans, therefore the one you would install the aux cooler in. What am I missing???

Ignore the diagram key, the wording is kind of weird or possibly wrong all together. I don't think they are referring to the flow with respect to the cooler but, with respect to the tranny. So the Cooler Inlet tube is not the inlet to the cooler but, rather the inlet to the transmission from the cooler.

This is the line you should concentrate on.

4R70W, AODE, AOD - The TOP transmission case filling receives the return line.

 

[sbelyo]

Does anyone know what size and thread the fitting is on the stock transmission lines and radiator?

 

[rjstaaf]

I know the lines themselves are 5/16". What are you looking at doing? If you are trying to figure out how to run the new cooler lines off the of the radiator you could leave a few inches of the hard line, flare the end and attach the 3/8" hose to that. The flare gives the hose something to bite into when you clamp it. It would probably be better though to find out what the fitting size is and get a 3.8" barbed fitting that will fit. That way you don't have a splice to worry about on that end. I will check and see what I can find out.

I am toying with the idea of bending all new steel hard lines for my install. I will likely just re-use the stock fittings in the radiator although I will have to buy two for the new cooler. If I go this route I will go with a new temperature manfold that I can splice into the hard line. It won't really add that much to the cost and I think it will look much cleaner and be more reliable.

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&part=ATM-2287&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch
View attachment 511442

Here is a good article on bending your own lines.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2004/11/GetInLine/index.php

 

[sbelyo]

I was reading the directions for the autometer temp manifold and it says to cut the hard line and install the manifold in between the cut.

I was just nervous about cutting the hard line and I was wondering if the threads were standard so I could try and find a fitting instead of cutting.

I'm going to call autometer tommorow and see if they know. I'm also going to ask what thread is used for the in and out of the manifold itself.

I will install the Long tru-cool tranny cooler from bulkpart.com so I was just trying to see what fitting I'll need to do everything in one shot.

 

[rjstaaf]

The temperature manifold in my latest post is for 5/16" hard line. What you would do is cut enough of the line to fit the manifold. You would need to flare the lines and attach them to the fittings that come with the manifold.

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&part=ATM-2287&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch
View attachment 511422

If you want the cooler and a gauge to monitor the transmission temps you are gonna have to cut both lines. You will want to make sure you have a cutting tool as well as a flaring tool. I happen to like SnapOn tools.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1338&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1339&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

If you are worried about getting it all done in one shot, don't. I see the cooler and the gauge as two different installs. I will probably do the temperature manifold and sending unit one weekend, install the wiring from the sending unit to the dash and install the cluster bezel and gauge another weekend. I will then install the cooler without any lines one weekend and then plumb it another weekend. Just break it down into smaller tasks that can be done over time so that you are not rushed to complete it. It will be less stressfull and you will do a better job as it is not a minor undertaking.

 

[YtnGT]

Just so you know... There are fittings that will work without cutting the line. I have posted the part #s several times over the last few years.

 

[rjstaaf]

Just so you know... There are fittings that will work without cutting the line. I have posted the part #s several times over the last few years.

I stand corrected, I couldn't see how you could do it without cutting the lines but, I found one the threads you had replied to.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=522936&highlight=trans+cooler

I see how you installed the barbed fitting in the top of the radiator and that runs to the input of the new cooler and the output of the new cooler runs to the hard line that you just pushed back a bit and installed a female fitting on the hard line so you could connect the hose.

What did you do for a gauge? How are you monitoring the fluid temperature?

 

[sbelyo]

I saw those at bulkpart.com They were under the hose and fittings section.

I like the article on making your own hardline. I see that it's best not to do it all in one shot.

 

[sbelyo]

I just talked to the guy at bulkpart.com....

He said the best way to mount the temp sensor is the pan. I started to think about it and I'll go that route later on this year.

He said the easiest way to attach the original lines is to use the 5/16" smart fittings on the website. You dont have to flare them, just cut the line and slide them on. They are compression fittings witha hose barb at the end.

I just ordered the cooler and fittings, so I'll start the install next Saturday

 

[YtnGT]

At first I was monitoring the peak trans temp with a temperature strip stuck to the bottom of the tranny oil pan. Then when I got a flash tuner I used it to monitor the trans temp. I have learned that I can beat on the car as much as I would like and the temp will not go past 190f. Most of the time (in the summer, 95+ ambient) it will run 170-180f.

 

[jeffnoel]

How do you monitor trans temp with a flash tuner?

 

[YtnGT]

How do you monitor trans temp with a flash tuner?

There is a variable for trans temp in the EEC that the flash tuner can monitor. I forget the actual abreviation for trans temp. I just go to transmission variables and scroll down until I reach a variable that is a temperature and not the ECT variable.

Propellerhead should remember the trans temp acronym, ask him...

 

[jeffnoel]

So there is a sending unit in the trans already?

 

[sbelyo]

Long Mfg. Phone number 1-800-753-7336

It was a tough one to find. I seem to be missing the two inverted flare fittings for the TRU-COOL 40,000lb GVW cooler.

I also found a place that stocks 3/8 male inverted flare to hose barb fittings. Part number 10006B-B06

http://www.weatherheadfittings.net