best location to put zex nitros nozzle on intake
- Thread starter chefster
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i would cap that hole off and put it in front of the maf, the further your nozzle is from the throttle plate the less harsh the "hit" is, 18" is optimum. plus if it blows across the maf you can get extra fuel added wich adds a margin of safety. all of this assuming your kit is dry and not wet.chefster said:
redsn95
Member
on a wet shot if you mount the nozzle to far away the fuel will puddle and possibly cause a backfire. the nozzle will work fine behind the throttle body i had two nos foggers drilled into the intake opening and it really woke the car up. it will hit really hard there.
Swarzkopf
Member
You're crazy! Doing this will ensure that the ice cold nitrous charge destroys his MAF over and over and over again. The Zex kit's instructions I believe even say this.
As for the "less harsh the hit is", the less "harsh" it is, the less power you are making. You want it close to the throttle body to get the advertised gains.
My Zex kit's nozzle is about 2 inches from my throttle body. Works perfectly. Do NOT mount the nozzle before the MAF or the intake temperature sensor; the cold nitrous injection will destroy both.
redsn95
Member
Swarzkopf said:
so let me get this straight, the harshness directly relates to power, not the oxygen content of nitrous or anything CRAZY like that. you could mount the nozzle ten feet away and it would still make the same power, as for the maf being destroyed, i had the same dry kit on 2 diff cars and never had a prob with either, and yes they were mounted pre maf as to get them as far away as possible as to minimize driveline shock which leads to parts breakage and if running an auto can cause torque converter to balloon. i may only have a few posts on this web site, but have been around for awhile and have had nitrous on every car i've had since '95 with only two blown headgaskets and no burned pistons. he did not state he was running a wet shot prior to my comments, if he did i would never rec he place his fuel spraying nozzle in front of a hot wire maf. so seriously man cut the dose and learn somethin.
Swarzkopf
Member
The "harsher" the feeling of the hit is, the more power you are making. Pretty simple to understand....so I thought.
No, it wouldn't. I'm not going to argue this over and over again with you. Check it on a dyno if you are as experienced as you claim to be.
Then you got lucky. Give Zex Tech, NOS, or NX Tech a call and ask them about mounting it before the MAF sensor. You can and will damage your MAF. I don't really care what you do to your car, however, this guy should at least have the right information before he takes the plunge.
You aren't making sense. Please explain exactly how mounting your nitrous nozzle further from the intake manifold minimizes "drivetrain shock" except for producing less drivetrain shocking horsepower.
Sticks and stones may break my bones but words on a website can never hurt me!!!1!1!!11!1!!11111111111111!!!!!!!
No, it wouldn't. I'm not going to argue this over and over again with you. Check it on a dyno if you are as experienced as you claim to be.
Then you got lucky. Give Zex Tech, NOS, or NX Tech a call and ask them about mounting it before the MAF sensor. You can and will damage your MAF. I don't really care what you do to your car, however, this guy should at least have the right information before he takes the plunge.
You aren't making sense. Please explain exactly how mounting your nitrous nozzle further from the intake manifold minimizes "drivetrain shock" except for producing less drivetrain shocking horsepower.
Sticks and stones may break my bones but words on a website can never hurt me!!!1!1!!11!1!!11111111111111!!!!!!!
i mounted the wet system just after the tb in the side of the intake..it all makes sense to me....how big of a shot should i put on and i bought some ac24 plugs...nowfor daily drivin withan occasional nitrous burst to blow off a nissan z what should i gap the plugs at and can i still side gap them
Swarzkopf
Member
Okay...couple of things:
Since you're using a wet kit, do not use the nitrous below 3000 RPMs. Below that, you have a pretty decent chance of causing gasoline to puddle in your intake manifold, which can lead to your intake manifold exploding.
That's up to you, most people will agree that a 125 shot is the largest you should safely run on a stock 5.0.
You'll want to gap your plags between .35 and .40, depending on the shot size you are running. A larger shot will require a smaller gap.
Since you're using a wet kit, do not use the nitrous below 3000 RPMs. Below that, you have a pretty decent chance of causing gasoline to puddle in your intake manifold, which can lead to your intake manifold exploding.
That's up to you, most people will agree that a 125 shot is the largest you should safely run on a stock 5.0.
You'll want to gap your plags between .35 and .40, depending on the shot size you are running. A larger shot will require a smaller gap.
Black95GTS
Active Member
Mounting it after the TB makes a lot of sense to me as well. You're trying to get the NOS into the intake anyway.
Gap the colder plugs .010 inches tighter then standard. I believe stock for us .054 so that means you should gap at .044.
Also, depending on what your timing is you probly want to retard it a couple degrees to 10ish. I read somewhere they recommend a degree per 50 shot. And use the good gas when filling up. Basically try to go the extra step to avoid detonation.
Gap the colder plugs .010 inches tighter then standard. I believe stock for us .054 so that means you should gap at .044.
Also, depending on what your timing is you probly want to retard it a couple degrees to 10ish. I read somewhere they recommend a degree per 50 shot. And use the good gas when filling up. Basically try to go the extra step to avoid detonation.
redsn95
Member
just start off with the smallest shot the kit has and work your way up getting used to using nitrous. you wont feel a lot of difference until you get up to around 125 horses. an msd box would help out on the ignition. id probably run .035 gap and back off an ac22. just my opinion though.
Swarzkopf said:
my info came from a tech rep from holley who taught the symposium about nitrous i went to a few years back. earlier dry shots before zex was even thought of were sprayed across the maf, that is how they got the ecm to add the extra fuel instead of adding fuel pressure. as far as dyno tuning, i did dyno tune my old t/a(with the zex kit) and tried several locations and was unable to find any changes in torque output. any effect velocity has on your engine is negated by the fact that it is of third wave pulse design, and nitrous has no effect on inertial supercharging. basically i'm saying that the content of oxygen does not change in nitrous relative to velocity and oxygen is what allows you to burn more fuel which in turns produces torque. the reason the rep stated to mount the nozzle 18 inches away is to allow the nitrogen and the oxygen to seperate as early as possible and i don't have to tell you that the nitrogen is what keeps the oxygen enriched charge from melting your hyperucraptic pistons. this buffer of nitrogen makes the burn slower or more controled wich reduces impact on your crank which is directly related to driveline shock. i will agree that with a wet shot especially you should not spray until 3k as to reduce fuel reversion which is what causes backfires, read: get a window switch it is def worth it esp with an auto as you don't have to spray through your shifts. i'm not the one throwing sticks and stones, just returning them, as when someone calls me crazy i tend to get a bit deffensive. hope that makes some sense.
nmcgrawj
Advanced Member
I dont understand how it being further can give "weaker" dyno results. If anything, it seems that being closer would "boost" the dyno results since its a bigger jump. Because like the guy above mentioned, the distance will not change the oxygen content and the nitrogen is there to keep it cool while traveling. Jay Allen once explained how a dyno can be off a little when it first turns on at 2500rpms or wherever because of the "jolt" the system gets from going through the transition. I would think that this is the same thing...that "extra" horsepower isnt really there...its just the system reacting to the "jolt". I always thought that when the nozzle was further away, the weaker the shock was because it takes the nitrous in gradually and isnt literally shot down the cars throat.
Does anyone else have any dyno proof? I hate internet fights and no proof...just words based off opinions. Thats the one good thing about talking to professionals that have tested things because they can say "well we gained...blah blah blah or we lost blah blah blah". Most of the time on these forums...its "he said, she said, that her boyfriend said, that his uncle told her that his dad's mechanic told him...."
I dont know, just trying to make sense of everything as their seems to be a few different opinions in here....
Does anyone else have any dyno proof? I hate internet fights and no proof...just words based off opinions. Thats the one good thing about talking to professionals that have tested things because they can say "well we gained...blah blah blah or we lost blah blah blah". Most of the time on these forums...its "he said, she said, that her boyfriend said, that his uncle told her that his dad's mechanic told him...."
I dont know, just trying to make sense of everything as their seems to be a few different opinions in here....
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