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best spring compressor for mustang front suspension.

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1993c0bra
  • Start date Start date May 17, 2005
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1993c0bra

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Mar 30, 2005
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#1
  • May 17, 2005
  • #1
I find myself doing alot of front suspension work on mustangs and im sick and tired of using those hook type spring compressors, they are so hard to use and take for ever. Does anyone know where i can get a good one, i wont mind paying 200 for it. Ive seen the clamshell type on ebay but im not sure of the quality and will they work on installing the springs. anyone have pics of theres on hand.
 
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tarch at school

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Feb 24, 2004
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May 17, 2005
#2
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you don't need a spring compressor to do the front springs...
 
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1993c0bra

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  • May 17, 2005
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yes you do
 

Tylerb59

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May 17, 2005
#4
  • May 17, 2005
  • #4
Remove caliper, zip tie out of the way with the brake lines.

Place the jack under control arm, tense it.

Remove the two bolts holding the shock in, remove the sway bar end link (top nut).

You don't have to, but it helps to remove the nut on the ball joint to allow the control arm to swing down freely when you SLOWLY lower the jack.

The spring falls out on it's own. If you don't push the ball joint out you're going to have to tug on the spring a little (after everything is lowered).

We lowered 5 cars in a day recently at a mod party and not once did we need spring compressors. In fact, when doing my springs the first time along I went to get spring compressors and it just made the situation harder to gain control of.
 
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1993c0bra

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well did you put stock springs back in.
 

Rootus

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Feb 8, 2003
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May 17, 2005
#6
  • May 17, 2005
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... and chain the spring during removal & installation.

There, I did my good deed for the day. Let's see how much I get punished for it...
 
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jtchristianson

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May 17, 2005
#7
  • May 17, 2005
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I might chime in on the stock spring re-installation aspect... I recently swapped k-members on my fox body with one that would fit my 4 valve mod motor. In doing so, removal of the springs was of course necessary.

I could not, for the life of me, get the stock length springs back in. I even called Brad's up in Lake City to beg for advice. Basically, it came down to either:

1) cutting down the springs a bit to get them to compress enough to get back in
2) put in shorter aftermarket springs

3) or pick up a couple of 300 lb ladies of virtue at a bar and convince them to sit on the hood of the stang!

I think that you will need a pneumatic spring press that will fit into the space between the k-member and the control arm....I think.

Good luck,

JT
 
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jtchristianson

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#8
  • May 17, 2005
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I guess my point is that you may end up lifting your car off the ground if you try to compress the spring into it's perch by putting a jack under it or the control arm..
 
T

tarch

My 8V > 4V > 2V
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May 17, 2005
#9
  • May 17, 2005
  • #9
1993c0bra said:
well did you put stock springs back in.
Click to expand...
my fronts were close to stock, if not taller than stock, prior to going in
 

Tylerb59

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#10
  • May 17, 2005
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1993c0bra said:
well did you put stock springs back in.
Click to expand...

The advantage to allowing the control arm to move freely is the fact you can get those 'tall' stock springs in and out. The key really is to jack up the car as high as you can before hand to allow this.

You shouldn't need to chain the spring if you place the jack under the control arm firmly and lower it SLOWLY. Otherwise, it's not a bad idea and another layer of security. Niether should you have to pry the thing in and out ... just take the time and make it easier on yourself by removing a few extra items.
 

codemonkey

Hungrymonkey's helper monkey
Nov 4, 2004
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Wilsonville, OR
May 17, 2005
#11
  • May 17, 2005
  • #11
but it helps to remove the nut on the ball joint to allow the control arm to swing down freely
Click to expand...


This is the key here. If you dont do this, you will need to compress the spring most of the time. But if you get the car way up in the air, and remove the nut, it will swing down enough on most fox bodies I've seen.

I'm going to be doing this soon on my 88, I'll let ya know how it goes.
 

gospeedgo

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May 17, 2005
#12
  • May 17, 2005
  • #12
Tylerb59 said:
You shouldn't need to chain the spring if you place the jack under the control arm firmly and lower it SLOWLY.
Click to expand...

if you have ever seen a spring come out on its own, you WILL chain up from then on. Its no different than wearing a seat belt, some people care about their well being, others dont...but I wouldnt recommend going around telling people not to buckle up either. Chain up for safety
 
T

tarch

My 8V > 4V > 2V
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May 17, 2005
#13
  • May 17, 2005
  • #13
gospeedgo said:
if you have ever seen a spring come out on its own, you WILL chain up from then on. Its no different than wearing a seat belt, some people care about their well being, others dont...but I wouldnt recommend going around telling people not to buckle up either. Chain up for safety
Click to expand...
we did 4 cars at my house without the chain... we're still all alive and aside from the noise it didn't seem too dangerous
 

YardSpecial

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Mar 20, 2003
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May 18, 2005
#14
  • May 18, 2005
  • #14
Master is here.

For STOCK springs take the bushing side down, not the ball joint side.

In the thousands of springs changed, never used chain or spring compressor.

Proper tool use is the key.

If I had the time I would show you Luke.

May the Force be with you...........

Yoda
 

dTas95GT

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Jan 6, 2004
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Woodinville, WA
May 18, 2005
#15
  • May 18, 2005
  • #15
Cavallo said:
Master is here.

For STOCK springs take the bushing side down, not the ball joint side.

In the thousands of springs changed, never used chain or spring compressor.

Proper tool use is the key.

If I had the time I would show you Luke.

May the Force be with you...........

Yoda
Click to expand...

 

Rootus

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Feb 8, 2003
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May 18, 2005
#16
  • May 18, 2005
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Angelo, I think you just did a huge disservice, and I'm disappointed.
 

YardSpecial

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#17
  • May 18, 2005
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Explain...........
 

redrumracing01

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May 18, 2005
#18
  • May 18, 2005
  • #18
yeah make sure you dont do the idiotic thing i did on my gt,when the a-arm is lowerd and the spring looks like it has no tension and looks like it will slide right out dont try to pull it out with your hand or a painfull thing will happin,i broke a bone in my left hand becuase of stupidityand i still had to put the springs back in so i could get to work the next day. and you dont want to cut your springs too much i got lazy and cut 2 coils off now i need to go buy a bump steer kit so my tie rod ends arnet at such a bad angle.

good luck
 

gospeedgo

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Aug 14, 2003
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May 18, 2005
#19
  • May 18, 2005
  • #19
lesson learned by a few...many more to go.

A chain wont prevent something freak from happening, but it is just common safety. By telling people they dont "need" to use one its the same as saying "I dont NEED to buckle up cause I wont get in a wreck...I drove for a year and never wrecked, so why would I now?"

And yes, take the bushing side down...much easier with stock length springs. With cut springs it wont matter much either way.
 

YardSpecial

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Mar 20, 2003
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May 19, 2005
#20
  • May 19, 2005
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Just saying, we changed 16 springs in 10 hours. Plenty witness around, no chain was needed or was their a danger involved at any time.

Peace
 
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