BEST Subframe connectors

79Mustang302

Founding Member

Dec 6, 2001

2,986

0

0

Colorado Springs, CO

Oct 14, 2007

#1

• Oct 14, 2007

• #1

I have a ttop car so the structural rigidity is very poor. I want to do subframe connectors but have no clue whos is the best. is there anything else i can do to stop the car from twisting every time i drive it hard? thanks in advance.

 

bloopbloob

Member

Sep 27, 2006

578

4

16

Alberta

Oct 14, 2007

#2

• Oct 14, 2007

• #2

everyone here seems to love the maximum motorsports sfc's, and pretty much all their suspension stuff.....

 

79Mustang302

Founding Member

Dec 6, 2001

2,986

0

0

Colorado Springs, CO

Oct 14, 2007

#3

• Oct 14, 2007

• #3

are they welded in or bolt on. what are the advantages/disadvantages to weld in vs bolt on?

i checked out the mm website, they got some really good stuff. i'm gonna get the full length black powdercoat connectors. will let know how they are.

 

bloopbloob

Member

Sep 27, 2006

578

4

16

Alberta

Oct 14, 2007

#4

• Oct 14, 2007

• #4

they are weld on. Weld on is the only way to go. The bolts tend to rip out after a while.

 

jtfairlane

New Member

Mar 5, 2006

468

3

0

Oct 14, 2007

#5

• Oct 14, 2007

• #5

I have the MM Full Length Subframe Connectors, a MM 2 pt K-Member brace (get the 4 pt brace if you have a 5spd), and the MM strut tower brace.

My car turns on rails.

 

Roland69

Sergeant Tangnet

Sep 17, 2005

2,867

1

58

Port Elgin, Ontario

Oct 14, 2007

#6

• Oct 14, 2007

• #6

I bought some SFC's from Bottlefed and they seem to work good. I wanted a set of The MM's XL but know I will never know if there is a whole lot of difference in stiffness. The next car I do I will be doing some Huge ones like the ones that go through the floor and make the car a full frame car.

 

Roland69

Sergeant Tangnet

Sep 17, 2005

2,867

1

58

Port Elgin, Ontario

Oct 14, 2007

#7

• Oct 14, 2007

• #7

like this

 

Attachments

• OCT06COBRA6022.jpg

  74.6 KB · Views: 327
• OCT06COBRA7020.jpg

  109 KB · Views: 463
• OCT06COBRA7021.jpg

  63.2 KB · Views: 241

Fast63

New Member

Sep 20, 2007

717

0

0

Oct 14, 2007

#8

• Oct 14, 2007

• #8

I got the BBK ones, you can weld or bolt them in but I just welded them, it really is the only way to go. You will see such an improvement from that that you should concentrate on just that for now.

 

Fett

New Member

Nov 2, 2004

766

0

0

Oct 14, 2007

#9

• Oct 14, 2007

• #9

Through floor subframe connectors are the BEST way to go, but they tend to be overkill for most cars. Unless you are running sub 9s, or road course, you really don't need them...but they are the best.

For most cars weld on, full length connectors is the way to go. Either MM or Steeda, both are the top of the line.

 

87foxstang

Member

May 10, 2007

0

0

16

Cromwell, CT

Oct 14, 2007

#10

• Oct 14, 2007

• #10

man ill tell you, after i installed my weld in SFC's the car didn't twist at all and corners much better

 

89gt89

Member

May 28, 2005

57

0

6

Bothell, WA

Oct 16, 2007

#11

• Oct 16, 2007

• #11

I made my own by using 2X2 box sock. I welded them up and they fit flush with the subframe. I had the material left over from a deck guardrail project.

 

JChalfan

Member

Nov 27, 2002

551

0

16

Bellevue, WA

Oct 16, 2007

#12

• Oct 16, 2007

• #12

I've got the maximum motorsports full length subframe connectors, and I like them just fine. Everyone seems to say good things about them.

I would definitely recommend welding any subframe connectors you get.

Jeff

 

Ike83

Member

Sep 27, 2006

0

0

17

St. Louis, Missouri

Oct 16, 2007

#13

• Oct 16, 2007

• #13

+1 for MM FL

 

Ike83

Member

Sep 27, 2006

0

0

17

St. Louis, Missouri

Oct 16, 2007

#14

• Oct 16, 2007

• #14

My next mod will be the MM lower control arms with the polyurethane bushings. I hear they aid in putting horsepower to the ground as well.

 

strtrcr50

New Member

Jun 21, 2006

0

4

0

Previously from Dirty Jerzey exit 7a

Oct 16, 2007

#15

• Oct 16, 2007

• #15

MM full length on a vert here. I don't notice the car flexing anymore.

 

S

svtpower

New Member

Apr 30, 2005

257

0

0

Wisconsin

Oct 16, 2007

#16

• Oct 16, 2007

• #16

another

Another vote for the MM full lengths

 

ninety15.0

New Member

Mar 10, 2004

1,336

0

0

Oct 16, 2007

#17

• Oct 16, 2007

• #17

I run the blue oval industries full length SFC's. They are models after the MM stuff but a hell of a lot cheaper. The welds were quality and the fit was great. I welded them on and immediately noticed a big difference. The car corners much better and takes bumps better too!

 

rd

Founding Member

Jan 12, 2000

3,316

63

109

Ocean Springs MS

Oct 16, 2007

#18

• Oct 16, 2007

• #18

I have Steeda subframes on my 79 T-Top Capri, because they were chrome moly tube, and very light. They also bolted on, and I had them welded later.

This was a plus since I could do the install, and weld later.

I have 1 X 2 in mild steel rect tube homemade ones on my 82, all welded, and they work fine also.

 

Ike83

Member

Sep 27, 2006

0

0

17

St. Louis, Missouri

Oct 16, 2007

#19

• Oct 16, 2007

• #19

Whoops! Also forgot to add that they MUST be weld-ons FTW!

Bolt-ons FTL.

 

79Mustang302

Founding Member

Dec 6, 2001

2,986

0

0

Colorado Springs, CO

Oct 16, 2007

#20

• Oct 16, 2007

• #20

rd said:

I have Steeda subframes on my 79 T-Top Capri, because they were chrome moly tube, and very light. They also bolted on, and I had them welded later.

This was a plus since I could do the install, and weld later.

I have 1 X 2 in mild steel rect tube homemade ones on my 82, all welded, and they work fine also.

Click to expand...

just wondering, you couldn't get a ttop capri in 1979. did you install them yourself? did you use factory ttops?