Best way to adjust rockers??
- Thread starter nick6690
- Start date
ShortThrow50
Member
well if they are stud mount, go 1/2 turn past zero lash and then lock them down. That would be best for street and minimal noise. If you find you still have noise, you can just go back and give them all another aditional turn. Is that what your asking or do you need to know the whole nine yards how to do them?
the whole nine yards if possible
my dad did mine when i built my engine and they made so much noise people could hear my valve train before my exhaust coming down the road.
i just want them to be done right.
the whole nine yards if possible
my dad did mine when i built my engine and they made so much noise people could hear my valve train before my exhaust coming down the road.
i just want them to be done right.
just make sure when your adjusting the cam is at the base circle of the valve you are on.
here is a super good write-up on it. but remember our firing order is 13726548
Century Performance Center, Inc. :: Adjusting Valve Lash
ShortThrow50
Member
the only thing i dont like about that is where it says from 1/8 to 1/2 turn. You will sure as hell get rocker noise. I would go at minimum 1/2 turn past zero lash
IMO the best way to adjust rockers is to adjust them with the car running, sort of a pain with the EFI intake in the way, but it can be done. fire the car up and back each rocker off until it starts clattering, then tighten until its quite then set your preload. i'd go AT LEAST 1/4 turn (1/4 turn netted some slight valvetrain chatter on my car when all warmed up)
so i myself went 3/4 turn which made it quiet.
so i myself went 3/4 turn which made it quiet.
so let me get this stright. you say if your rockers are noisy/clattering to tighten them a bit more?caint you tighten them to much?also Foxfan88 how do you tighten/adjust them with it running? the oil squiters everywhere dont it? when i did mine i went where the lobs were down and the rod had some tension on them tightened the nuts about 3/4 more turn then locked the locks.peace
john
john
GT_Rich
Member
If you overtighten them, you'll lose vacuum b/c the valves are never closing. Put a vac gauge on it while your making the adjustments if you are worried about going too far. I had better luck adjusting mine with the car running. I took an old valve cover and cut the top off it. I used that to catch oil (it won't be "shooting" out). The hacked up valve cover worked surprisingly well - almost no spills! FWIW - I adjusted until the chatter went away and then went another 1/4 turn.
yes oil does get everywhere and make a mess, to help aid that i cut out some pieces or cardboard that set on the head and leaned over against the shock tower.
also. a 3/8 - 24 stud (most studs are this size)
each turn nets .040" of preload (each 1/4 is .010") and i myself measured the lifter plunger travel in an old lifter of mine. the lifter had about .100" of collapse
that means you can put 2.5 full turns of preload on the lifters before you begin to bottom the lifter plunger and begin holding the valve open.
on a 7/16-20 stud, each full turn is around .050 of preload so you can go a whole 2 full turns before you hold the valves open.
so i wouldnt worry about adjusting it down too much. keep it say b/w a 1/2 and full turn.
also. a 3/8 - 24 stud (most studs are this size)
each turn nets .040" of preload (each 1/4 is .010") and i myself measured the lifter plunger travel in an old lifter of mine. the lifter had about .100" of collapse
that means you can put 2.5 full turns of preload on the lifters before you begin to bottom the lifter plunger and begin holding the valve open.
on a 7/16-20 stud, each full turn is around .050 of preload so you can go a whole 2 full turns before you hold the valves open.
so i wouldnt worry about adjusting it down too much. keep it say b/w a 1/2 and full turn.
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