Best way to sell my car?

[Yobi1Kanobi]

Should I take out my 347 and keep it for my next car or should I try to sell it all together?

Below you will see what I got...

347 stroker forged 9.5 comp
TFS heads O-ringed
TFS R intake

TKO 600
Promotion Custom Clutch

Griggs K-Member
Griggs A-arms

Flaming River Manual rack

SSBC 13" front brakes

Full length subframe connectors.

3.73 gears

Cobra R 3" hood

Steeda Spoiler



I would like to keep the motor/trans and brakes....what could I get for the rest of the car.

Thanks:SNSign:

 

[Killercanary]

Why are you even thinking about selling it? It sounds like a nice setup.

 

[donkey_punch]

Why are you even thinking about selling it? It sounds like a nice setup.

i was thinking the same thing.

 

[Husky44]

Are you planning to replace the stuff you want to keep, and selling it as a running car, or just selling it as a (somewhat) roller body without the motor/trans?

What's the rest of the car like, and why are you selling? That'll make a big difference to the answer to your question.

As a comparison: The donor car for my 67 is a prime example: I bought a 91 LX, w/347, Trick Flow HCI, all the high-end internals, World Class T5, ... you get the idea--killer driveline, all the right suspension mods for a fox. Body and interior were pretty ragged out, although it did have a nice Saleen body kit and wing on it. Paid $4k for the whole thing. I pulled the driveline (to include 8.8 with FRPP 4.10 gears), complete wiring harness for the conversion in my 67.

Then I parted out the rest: Sold the body kit, wheels, aluminum driveshaft, suspension stuff, doors, hood, hatch, trunk, fenders...made over $3k selling the stuff I didn't want. Wound up with an engine and tranny that it would have taken me >$10k to build, basically for $1k net.

Not advocating scrapping your car, but just telling the story to illustrate that the PO couldn't get near the value for the car that he'd put into it, whereas I did get a lot more value out of it, but it took time, effort, and a flatbed to haul the carcass to the junkyard once I was done.

So it goes back to the original questions: What are your objectives for selling (and presumably what are you wanting to buy), and what's the condition of the car?

 

[ProKiller]

i could take the whole thing off your hands for $3.50 and a ham sandwich....

if you keep the engine, what would you use it for? just sit in your garage in the hopes of buying another project car 5 years from now? if you already have a car lined up then keep the stuff and sell it as a roller. if not, i'd try to flip it as is, probably get a quicker sale and more money.

 

[Yobi1Kanobi]

The motor/trans and brake want a new home with a 67 FB. The body and interior is in good shape, although it will need a paint job since the paint is 15 yrs old.

And I have to get rid of it due to reason above. I am getting out of my other projects and getting a 67 shell...Its the car I have always really wanted. Its actually the car that made me buy a 94 because it reminded me of the 67 FB lines.

 

[Husky44]

The motor/trans and brake want a new home with a 67 FB. The body and interior is in good shape, although it will need a paint job since the paint is 15 yrs old.

And I have to get rid of it due to reason above. I am getting out of my other projects and getting a 67 shell...Its the car I have always really wanted. Its actually the car that made me buy a 94 because it reminded me of the 67 FB lines.

Do the math: What's your car worth "as is" versus with a junkyard motor and tranny? If that's less than what your motor/tranny combo would be to do over again, then pull the motor and tranny. Next calculation: What's the car worth with junkyard motor/tranny, versus what you can part it out for? Can you do the swap yourself?

I wouldn't bother with the brakes, unless you've already got the replacement parts to put back on. You'll need adapter brackets to run your brakes on 67 spindles. Better off to just buy a complete brake kit for the 67, unless you went really high end on the SSBC kit. Again, pencil it out, and see what works.

If you wind up parting it, you might want to hang onto your rearend. It's a pretty easy and effective swap into the 67s, and will save you $2k (by the time you buy a 9 inch and set it up, that's what you're gonna spend).

Are you building one of the new bodies?

 

[Yobi1Kanobi]

Are you building one of the new bodies?

Yes Kinda

O am thinking of using a converted coupe body that is restore by these guys..

Drake Customs - Reconditioned BodyShells

And yes my brakes are SSBC force 10 brakes and I have the matching rears so I would like to keep them

I would really feel bad scrapping the car since it is in good condition but the truth is if I sold the car for 7k with the motor I think that is basically just the worth of the motor build.

So i am really torn

 

[Husky44]

Yes Kinda

O am thinking of using a converted coupe body that is restore by these guys..

Drake Customs - Reconditioned BodyShells

And yes my brakes are SSBC force 10 brakes and I have the matching rears so I would like to keep them

I would really feel bad scrapping the car since it is in good condition but the truth is if I sold the car for 7k with the motor I think that is basically just the worth of the motor build.

So i am really torn

Are these the guys that just got the rightup in Mustangs and Fords (can't remember what their new name is?)? I was impressed with the work that I saw so far that they were doing on a rusted out coupe.

$7k is about what I figured I had into my motor, if I had to start from scratch. Plus $1500-2000 for a tranny, $2k for the brakes (I'm guessing). You can also save yourself $2k with your rearend, if it's in good shape (you've already been hammering on it with that engine, so it should stand up ok!). That's $11k worth of take-offs.

If you want to sell it as a complete car, you can't use the axle, so that's $9k. Then you've gotta put new brakes, engine, tranny back into it to make a, what $3000 car? (no insult intended, just guessing at it's worth for a basically stock car with some suspension mods). Or, you just keep going--pull your seats (fronts will work with little or no mods in your 67, and will be way more comfortable. Where are you going to get your ECU, wiring, etc, to run the motor in the 67 (I assume you're keeping the EFI? I would!). You can pull the harness out of your car, that's another $500-600 saved. Probably some other stuff I'm not remembering that you can use. Wheels and tires if you want (unless you're running really wide rears). Leaves you with the suspension parts, k-member, subconnectors, rack, body parts, all to make you some of your money back.

I know it's hard to scrap one of these, especially your own. But put pencil to paper and do the math with a little more detail than I have above, and I think you'll be money ahead to sell it one part at a time.

Good luck with the 67! Are you gonna hang around on here, or move strictly to the vintage sites? FWIW, I strongly recommend VMF (Vintage-Mustang.com) for the vintage stuff. They've got a "Mod and Custom" subforum, where guys are doing awesome stuff with old iron and new technology. Lots of help, lots of smart guys.