Blower On Stock 302

j0rd4n said:

ok ill go talk to some tuners and see what they say. there is a foxbody specialist by me but he always talks crap on boosted cars and they cant be reliable so im gonna go somewhere else. i already installed the pullies, minus the alternator pully. whats the reason for not running these

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The pullies will "under drive" your accessories meaning they will spin your alternator, power steering, AC, and water pump at less rpms. You do not want less cooling and less voltage available to you while in low rpms and idling, right? This is bad especially if you have a stock 65amp alternator.

As far as super chargers being reliable goes that's difficult to explain. Some people go for max HP max boost blower setups and that's not reliable. Some people don't know what they're doing and have issues. Lots of people run in to head gaskets issues. IMO, don't get greedy with boost and get a safe tune and you'll have a better chance with reliability. I think super charging a stock engine should be the most reliable setup so long as you keep the boost down. Too high of boost and bye-bye head gaskets. Most likely I'm going to pop my gaskets this summer but I am well aware of what I'm getting myself in to.

These guys are giving good advice. I know this from my own experiences.

I run 10psi and I'm using 30lb injectors with calibrated MAF and chip tune (no FMU). My 30's are maxed out at WOT and I even had to turn up the fuel pressure to get the AF mixture just right. Stock pressure is 39psi and I have mine bumped to 46. So, I should have went with larger injectors but I'm dialed in pretty good so I'm holding as is. I do have 340lph pump.

My crank pulley is a Vortech piece that has an underdrive accessory drive pulley built in. I have a 3G alt 130amp. You really only have issues with UD pulley if you sit in traffic and have to idle for extended periods. You can see the voltmeter drop when idling 750-800. What you dont see is how much slower the water is circulating so that can cause overheating issues. I have a monster sized radiator and a strong fan so I get away with it. Although, I had been holding the idle a little higher with my foot when in extended idle situations. I noticed that at 900-1000 rpm the voltmeter had no drop and cooling was more consistent.

I had a stalling issue I could not track down. In frustration I did the frowned upon action of turing up the throttle stop to increase idle speed. In my case it solved all of my issues, I've gotten no codes and its running great. No more stalling and the idle is about 900-950 which keeps the voltage up and the water moving better. After turning up the throttle stop, I re-adjusted the TPS voltage. So far I'm getting away with these no no's, but there's no promise that others will have my good luck in these details.

Another thing, during the time my car was NA, I had no head gasket issues. After the boost was added, I had head gasket issues. I finally got it fixed but it took removing the engine, tearing it down to have the block and heads milled, reassembled with ARP stud kit and Cometic head gaskets. Nice thing about Cometics is the different thicknesses they are available in. In my case I ordered thicker by the same amount of material that was removed in the milling processes. Everything when together perfectly with stock length pushrods and no need to shim the pedestals.

It's coming together for me finally. The car runs fantastic and I absolutely love driving it! I plan to enjoy it through the summer while continuing the tweaking. Im thinking dyno pulls in the fall to see what its putting to the pavement.

PS: If you buy the kit from Vortech it comes with a drive belt that is sized for stock pulleys. If you're running other than stock size pulleys, you'll have to hang that belt on the wall and get a shorter one.