Body work for 2,000 dollars????

Spend $15.00 on Mustang Body shop book. I bought it and started cutting
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out the rust and welding in new metal. I did some welding in Highschool

which was 20 Plus years ago but I used a wire feed and the metal didn't

seem to warp much. Pound it out and get it as close as you can get.

Take to the body shop to do the filling and painting to make it perfect. My

Paint Job and Body work cost me $4500.00 after I replaced rust and also

bought alot of Repo parts such as Deck Lide, front and Rear Valance, rear

Qtrs hood and one front fender. Its alot cheaper to replace the parts with

repo than to fix the stuff you have.
 
$2000 would be a good deal for you if you don't have the time or space or machines to do it yourself.

This is assuming (and you know what that can get you) that this person does quality work. Have you seen any welding / body work this person has completed?

If you do decide to go this route, I would strongly recommend you write some kind of contract up that you both will sign that describes the work to be done in detail, the amount of money that will be paid up front, and at the point of completion, and some kind of timeline.

If it goes wrong, the paper contract will give you something to take them to small claims court over, no contract, no case.

Good luck whatever you decide.
 
milner351 said:
$2000 would be a good deal for you if you don't have the time or space or machines to do it yourself.

This is assuming (and you know what that can get you) that this person does quality work. Have you seen any welding / body work this person has completed?

If you do decide to go this route, I would strongly recommend you write some kind of contract up that you both will sign that describes the work to be done in detail, the amount of money that will be paid up front, and at the point of completion, and some kind of timeline.

If it goes wrong, the paper contract will give you something to take them to small claims court over, no contract, no case.

Good luck whatever you decide.

TOTALLY AGREED ON THE CONTRACT!!! always get a written contract anywhere you take your car. A bunch of people are out there to screw you just like Just Brakes and places like that. A bodyshop had my 69mach 1 for 8 freaking months and I just got it back to assemble it and it has to go back for a final layer of basecoat, clearcoat and cutand polish. A simple contract would have done wonders. Also dont give him more than 1/2 down. Paying upfront makes it easy for them to forget about your project since they already have your money. Only give enough to cover materials. Make them work for their profit
 
Hey guys thanks alot......im young, in school this is my only car and its more then likly going to see the track 90% more then it will shows,( the guy who refereed me to him is a GOOOOD friend in a local racing club with me) i just want it to look halfway descant as im driving it to school and out to the local races and stuff..... i mean in no way do i want a ****ty job though, im going to use your advice and ask to see some of his work.....and most definitly get a contract wrote up.... i suppose you guys could help me with that and ill just have him read it over and stuff....if he dosent liek it then he wont liek me walking away either ;)
 
how do u plan to replace the rear quarter panels on a 70 mustang? I had a big ding on my coupe and the entire back part of the car is a unibody. So I had a (well known and excellent) body shop pull the metal back out. I checked inside the trunk and there is no creases or anything. Also for the total price of fixin the dent and painting(w/ clear coat) was 3k.
 
wild70stang said:
how do u plan to replace the rear quarter panels on a 70 mustang?

You can replace them the same way you do any quarter panel on a unibody car. You can:

1) reskin the quarter by cuting out just the outer most metal and either lap or butt welding in a new piece.

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2) drill out the spot welds at the taillight panel, door jamb, trunk opening and remove the leaded seam. Then reinstall a new full quarter. (it's a 67, M+ didn't have a pic of a 70 full quarter)

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3) just cut out and replace those sections that are rotted

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