Bolton 94-95 Cobra rwhp?

[Speeds8erM-1]

You may be right but it does make me wonder when I see this:



If he really dynoed 232rwhp/280rwtq stock, I'd be rather disappointed with a mere 23rwhp/15rwtq gain from all those mods if I was in his shoes.

You forget the 3.73's negate some of the power gain, the extender probably wasnt worth much, picking up 23 rwhp from those mods really isnt that bad. You would see alot more gains if you started from a non Cobra 5.0 and did the boltons plus a Cobra intake and GT40 Irons. It's all in perspective.

 

[legalize420]

they were underated and they did not make 205-210 at the rear wheels stock

definetly underated. same with the terminators. add a catback and tuner and you have 400 at the wheels, and they come with 390 at the flywheel from the factory. i have a buddy with a bolt on 93 put down 260. i saw both pulls in person at a local dyno day.

 

[final5-0]

I got 255 rwhp and 295 rwtq on my 94 Cobra with bolt ons. Bolt on include FRPP headers, Bassani X with cat, flow cat back, 3.73 gears, 65mm TB, Pro M 77 MAF meter caled for 94\95 cobras and home made CAI, FRPP extender.
Stock I dynoed 232 rwhp and 380 rwtq.

After thinking about your car
and
The mention above about the gain of 23rwhp

I wanted to share a thought or two and I'd like to finish up with
how I see them working with your bolt on Cobra

First of all ... We really shouldn't expect much from just bolt on mods
I mean ... after all ... they are ... supporting parts basically :Word:

They support the ... meat ... of the combo happy meal

The meat would be heads, cam, & intake

Lets take three examples

1) Stock GT
2) Stock Cobra
3) After Market h/c/i combo

With #1 ... most of them are quite adequate and the most effective
bolt on mod would be the 4 cat mid pipe upgrade

With #2 ... same could be said for the mid pipe and Ford has already
addressed the inj's.

True ... Cobra heads & intake generate more air flow than the GT
and
It would seem the bolt ons would be more effective

But ... as I see it ... the additional air flow is not all that much more
so
While the bolt ons are gonna be more effective ......
They're not gonna be all that much more effective.

Really ... when you think along these lines with the Cobra .....
Its already got better heads & intake ...
You just gotta instantly think ... C A M
Thats what it needs to more effectively pump up its air flow :Word:

Just as Mr. Adam pointed out above

True ... most don't consider a cam as a bolt on

You guys
You have a way of making me think about stuff I usually don't

Moving on to the last above example

With #3 ... you're gonna move the greatest amount of air so
the supporting parts should make more of a difference

But ... Still ... Same principle applies here as in 1 & 2 above

Now ... back to your particular car

I'd break it down kinda like this .....

1) cai
2) 65 tb
3) 77 maf
4) shortys
5) cat x pipe
6) flow cb
7) extender

With 1, 2, & 3 ... OEM 2 & 3 are pretty effective
If it was cool outside ... I'd say 1 could be the winning gain mod
I'd rate them all for about 5rwhp

With 4, 5, & 6 ... I'd have to say 5 would be the winning single mod
followed by 4 and I'd rate them all for about 8rwhp

With 7 ... you get some spark & fuel help. I could see it being
pretty effective by the 1/4 mile gains some reported about
several years ago when it was more popular. I'd rate it as
being good for about 10rwhp

Final thoughts about bolt on mods

Sure they are easy to install
but
For the most part ... their Gain to Cost ratio ... S U C K S

And the worst of em all ... Catbacks :Word:

They deliver a "I'm Fast!" sound
but
They deliver nothing but performance

Bolt Ons ... They're one of those ... Catch 22 kinda deals

If you are going to go the distance with a complete combo
Sooner or later ... you gotta have em

Grady

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Is it your thinking that you loose 12.5% in the drive line

Grady

Yup. The T5 is a pretty efficient tranny and I've read that the drivetrain is only about 13%.

You forget the 3.73's negate some of the power gain

I don't see why that can happen. I would have thought that the 3.73's would slightly increase rwhp given that the stock gearing was absurdly tall.

 

[rj95svt]

Gears should not make any difference on the Dyno. The dyno will tke into acoount the difference between the roller and engine rpm's and calculate accordingly.

 

[final5-0]

Gears should not make any difference on the Dyno. The dyno will tke into acoount the difference between the roller and engine rpm's and calculate accordingly.

+1

I've asked more than one dyno guy that Q

They said the choice of ratio makes no difference

like you said ... they ask for that info before they do the pull

Grady

 

[Black95GTS]

You forget the 3.73's negate some of the power gain, the extender probably wasnt worth much, picking up 23 rwhp from those mods really isnt that bad. You would see alot more gains if you started from a non Cobra 5.0 and did the boltons plus a Cobra intake and GT40 Irons. It's all in perspective.

HP = RPM*TRQ / 5252

If you use numerically higher gear ratios, you are increasing the trq multiplier. More trq equals more HP. You will never lose HP by using shorter gears.

Adam

 

[Black95GTS]

+1

I've asked more than one dyno guy that Q

They said the choice of ratio makes no difference

like you said ... they ask for that info before they do the pull

Grady

To expand on that, they input what your rear end ratio is, and you do the dyno run in 4th gear, which is a 1 to 1 ratio. If you really want to get a headache, we can talk about why dynoing an automatic is iffy at best.

Its all about the engine dyno....

Adam

 

[final5-0]

To expand on that, they input what your rear end ratio is, and you do the dyno run in 4th gear, which is a 1 to 1 ratio. If you really want to get a headache, we can talk about why dynoing an automatic is iffy at best.

Its all about the engine dyno....

Adam

That is exactly why I DO NOT use auto trans combos for my
reference material

Grady

 

[grngt50]

It is posible to get a cobra over 300 rwhp with bolt ons and some head and intake work.I got my stuff done at a local speed shop here in cali they ported the upper, lower and ported and polished the heads with a 3 angle valve job and ported my headers to match the ported exhaust ports and with a tune and the stuff in my sign I got barely over 300 rwhp .I spent about 1,000 dollars with everything and I know you guys might say I should of spent it on better heads but I just wanted a little more power while keeping it looking stock when I open the hood and I was satisfied with the results.

What shop did you take your car to?

-James
94 GT AODE Vert

 

[fordtech28]

What shop did you take your car to?

-James
94 GT AODE Vert

the shop is called Santa Ana speed shop they do everything but the tune they recomended me to one of their customers that does just tunning.It worked out great.

 

[grngt50]

cool thanks

-James

 

[94CobraPace]

You may be right but it does make me wonder when I see this:



If he really dynoed 232rwhp/280rwtq stock, I'd be rather disappointed with a mere 23rwhp/15rwtq gain from all those mods if I was in his shoes.

I'm not real worried about the dyno number because they were done on different dynos. These are just bolt ons, nothing really to "make" hp, just free up some. I know that.
Grady, the extender adds more under the curve and removes the tip in retard.
I gained .6 tenths in the 1/4 with the mods. Not great, but not bad.
Now when I get the 331 with AFR 185 heads built and installed I have in the garge, the supporting mods will benifit it more.

Now what is defined as "bolt ons"? Heads? Intake? TB, headers.

 

[final5-0]

Grady, the extender adds more under the curve and removes the tip in retard.
I gained .6 tenths in the 1/4 with the mods.

I'm very familiar about that unit and that is why I wanted to say
it was good for more gain than some may have thought.

Now what is defined as "bolt ons"? Heads? Intake? TB, headers.

Your Q here reminds me of a funny happening that made me look
kinda foolish ... but ... I swear ... It was not my fault

I had been away from this hobby for several years when I got my 95GT

I had seen the words Bolt On used many times on the sites

I had self ported E7's, self ported oem stock intake, pulleys, mid pipe
and a home made cai for a combo when I replied in a thread about
my ... Bolt On ... combo.

Man O Man
You would have thought I had violated someone's
daughter by the way those guys got their
panties all up in a wad

They told me real quick my little 95 was N O T a bolt on combo

I kid you not ... I replied back ... in total innocence I might add

And Said ... "I bolted on the heads and intake"

I stayed away from that site for a while until I kinda learned
how things rolled with the folks in the hobby since I got back

Grady

 

[Speeds8erM-1]

HP = RPM*TRQ / 5252

If you use numerically higher gear ratios, you are increasing the trq multiplier. More trq equals more HP. You will never lose HP by using shorter gears.

Adam

Wrong, you will LOSE POWER on a Dynojet with a steeper gear, check out www.ls1tech.com where people actually dyno their cars back to back.

Dunno on a Mustang dyno, dont care either as the operator has so much input on the numbers it;s not even funny.

 

[Speeds8erM-1]

+1

I've asked more than one dyno guy that Q

They said the choice of ratio makes no difference

like you said ... they ask for that info before they do the pull

Grady

They do NOT ask for gear ratio info on a Dynojet, thats Mustang dyno stuff.

 

[igotyofire]

heres my stock cobras dyno, i think i had only a magnaflow catback and silencer removal, done at elevation around 1300ft if that makes a difference, dunno, also was done at some rice shop where all the hondas go, they had a dyno day so it was cheap heh. But they were all amazed at my torque,haha

 

[Black95GTS]

Wrong, you will LOSE POWER on a Dynojet with a steeper gear, check out www.ls1tech.com where people actually dyno their cars back to back.

Dunno on a Mustang dyno, dont care either as the operator has so much input on the numbers it;s not even funny.

:OT: ls1tech is a joke. All those people do is race dyno's, nobody goes to the track. Ed Curtis calls it LS1toke.com for a good reason.

If you have 2.73 gears, the tires will rotate 2.73 times for ever 1 time the drive shaft rotates. If you have 4.10 gears, the wheels will rotate for every 1 time the drive shaft rotates.

The increased wheel rotation will cause the well to rotate more. Engine RPM stays the same though. So I ask you this... if the operator doesn't input the gear ratios, then how in the world is any dyno accurate?

The operator enters in the differential ratio to negate the effects of the differential gearing. The operator runs the mustang in 4th gear to negate the effects of the transmission gearing. That way there are no variables in the drive train, its just a 1 to 1 ratio for the duration of the pull.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but in my dyno experiences the operator has always asked for gear ratios.

Adam

 

[Speeds8erM-1]

:OT: ls1tech is a joke. All those people do is race dyno's, nobody goes to the track. Ed Curtis calls it LS1toke.com for a good reason.

If you have 2.73 gears, the tires will rotate 2.73 times for ever 1 time the drive shaft rotates. If you have 4.10 gears, the wheels will rotate for every 1 time the drive shaft rotates.

The increased wheel rotation will cause the well to rotate more. Engine RPM stays the same though. So I ask you this... if the operator doesn't input the gear ratios, then how in the world is any dyno accurate?

The operator enters in the differential ratio to negate the effects of the differential gearing. The operator runs the mustang in 4th gear to negate the effects of the transmission gearing. That way there are no variables in the drive train, its just a 1 to 1 ratio for the duration of the pull.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but in my dyno experiences the operator has always asked for gear ratios.

Adam

We are talking about DYNOS, who cares who RACES dynos, we are talking about DIRECT comparison on same dynos with different gears. It's been done alot over the years. Alot of guys on LS1tech actually try different stuff instead of sitting around talking about how sweet the e cam is compared to the z cam and f cam. Of course there are ALOT of tools on there too but look at whats coming out for those cars and the power they make these days, because alot of guys actually try stuff.

I have dynoed 6 times at 2 different shops with 5 different cars over the years, not to mention put together alot of dyno days and cruises and my friend OWNS a fuggin Dynojet 224XLC. NEVER have they asked what gear ratio you have. Thats MUSTANG DYNO STUFF, not Dynojet. People say Mustang dyno's or more accurate and read lower, yea, most shops that tune with them have so much control over the stuff you input that they can easily skew numbers to make it look like their tune job made a big difference. Seen it before, car comes out and dynos lower on a dynojet when it shouldnt or they dont run the MPH they should.

Now on the Dynojet with the load control I have seen them ask for weight when using the chassis brake but other than that, nope, especially on older Dynojet 228's, you get on, strap the car down, pick an RPM, put it in 1:1 and go for it.

 

[final5-0]

Well

I will say this
I would certainly know if I had my Stang on a Dynojet or Mustang Dyno

The times I've been on a Dynojet ... I was asked for my rear end ratio

I've been to several dyno days and heard the tech inquire about the ratio as well

They may be only using that info for their records
but
Never the less ... they did ask for the ratio

Grady