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Boost Vs Timing.. the age old Question....

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dr_EluSivE
  • Start date Start date Jul 16, 2005

Dr_EluSivE

Founding Member
Apr 24, 2002
2,155
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56
Central Illinois
Jul 16, 2005
#1
  • Jul 16, 2005
  • #1
Boost Vs Timing.. the age old Question.... *update*

I have done some reading on this subject (on TF) and i still havent heard a clear, consise answer... atleast not one that i think applys to me. I have run the car about 1500 miles now and i want to start tuning things a bit, I have a volvo IC, BOV, T3 @ 15psi. On 93 octane with REG mode the car does not ping Unless its super hot and it gets a chance to heat soak a while. I checked the timing this morning and it is currently at 15*btdc. My question is this... would i be better off dropping my timing down to 13.. or 10 and upping the boost a little, or leaving things as is. The car makes decent power, but it would be nice if i could have this power at something less then 93 octane. I would also like to be able to make use of the Oct switch, so i dont want to have too much base then flip the switch and blow stuff up. This car is my daily driver so i need reliablity over power, Some people say boost is harder on the engine, others say timing is harder, what do you guys think? less timing with more boost, Or keep the timing and boost levels like they are.

Another question i have too (unrelated) is this.. Does the Narrowband (autometer) A/F gauge have enough accuracy to tell how you mixture is at WOT? At WOT it reads 2 lights into Rich, Is this fairly Accurate?

Dr.
 

Stinger

Founding Member
Jul 7, 2001
7,754
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118
Basehor (Kansas City), KS
Jul 16, 2005
#2
  • Jul 16, 2005
  • #2
Timing is harder on the engine than boost. Both timing and boost make roughly the same hp per degree/psi. It varies some with each setup.

The LA series computers where run at 10º in stock form. I haven't had much luck running more base timing on anything less than premium. I have had tons of luck with stock base timing and elevated boost levels though.

If I were you, I'd put the base timing back to 10-11º and turn up the boost to 18-20psi on premium and 15-17 on 89 octane in premium mode.
 

Dr_EluSivE

Founding Member
Apr 24, 2002
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Central Illinois
Jul 16, 2005
#3
  • Jul 16, 2005
  • #3
Stinger said:
Timing is harder on the engine than boost. Both timing and boost make roughly the same hp per degree/psi. It varies some with each setup.

The LA series computers where run at 10º in stock form. I haven't had much luck running more base timing on anything less than premium. I have had tons of luck with stock base timing and elevated boost levels though.

If I were you, I'd put the base timing back to 10-11º and turn up the boost to 18-20psi on premium and 15-17 on 89 octane in premium mode.
Click to expand...

thats kinda the direction i was planning to go unless i had a compelling reason to do otherwise. While i have ya here though, do you know of a dist. Hold down bolt that is an Allen Style head Vs the Hex head.. Sometimes the hex head can be tougher to get to, an allen might be a tad eaiser. But you think i will see a Noticable drop in performance if i drop the timing back without increasing boost. I guess i need to wire up my prem switch, and bump the boost up a tad so i can run reg, and then prem when i feel like paying.

Dr.
 

Stinger

Founding Member
Jul 7, 2001
7,754
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118
Basehor (Kansas City), KS
Jul 18, 2005
#4
  • Jul 18, 2005
  • #4
You can get an allen head bolt to fit if you want, it's a normal metric thread. I just leave mine loose enough to move by hand but not on it's own...
 
1

140cilx

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GA
Jul 18, 2005
#5
  • Jul 18, 2005
  • #5
I say run 10 as well.

You can tell a diff in torque at low rpm's w/ the timing advanced, but it's not worth the power you can get w/ the extra boost from 3k on.

I dabbled all around your question when I've tuned. About the only time I run more timing is autoxing. I'll put it at 14 and then back the boost down to about 18. That helps it come out of corners a bit harder and it doesn't go all crazy spinning the tires when it spools.

2 bars rich at WOT w/ a narrow band is right on.
 

351wcoupe

New Member
Feb 13, 2003
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Manhattan, Kansas
Jul 18, 2005
#6
  • Jul 18, 2005
  • #6
I'm dead on 10* and have been way up in the boost (over 22psi) and 20 psi and 100shot with no problem.
 

Dr_EluSivE

Founding Member
Apr 24, 2002
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Central Illinois
Jul 19, 2005
#7
  • Jul 19, 2005
  • #7
Sounds like 10* is the way to go, I havent changed it yet because of the weather, and the fact that the car runs so good, but i will drop it back in the next day or so and let you know what happens. Ill probably bump the boost up to about 18# at the same time.. Hopefully i wont lose too much power, but will gain the ability to run Plus or maybe even reg gas. Ill keep you updated.

Dr.
 
1

140CILX-Coupe

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Mar 30, 2005
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Jul 19, 2005
#8
  • Jul 19, 2005
  • #8
Whats the best timing for the avalability of octains.

and how hard is it to wire up a prem switch?
 

Stinger

Founding Member
Jul 7, 2001
7,754
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118
Basehor (Kansas City), KS
Jul 19, 2005
#9
  • Jul 19, 2005
  • #9
Stock timing for all octanes...wiring the premium switch is easy...
 
1

140CILX-Coupe

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
189
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Jul 19, 2005
#10
  • Jul 19, 2005
  • #10
thanks.
 

Dr_EluSivE

Founding Member
Apr 24, 2002
2,155
0
56
Central Illinois
Jul 23, 2005
#11
  • Jul 23, 2005
  • #11
well since the Actual temp is supposed to be 103* tomorrow i figured i had better drop the timing back. I set it to about 10* and it actually idles smoother, and starts up quicker. When Pushed the car is a little slower, but it is definatly running smoother. The slight loss in power is worth the piece of mind, and smoother all around performance. I DID NOT however bump my boost at all from its 15# setting. I am still running the stock Mustang Fuel pump and the Stock TC regulator. How much boost can i safely get away with before these 2 things start to work against me. I know the stock pump cant be good for much since i think it is rated @ 80Lph. I have also been thinking about doing some Bolt on performance mods, I can do the Intakes pretty cheap, and the fpr and pump are pretty cheap so i think i can do those. Is there a noticable difference if i gut and polish the intakes? about Half my paycheck is helping put my Fiance' through college now so funds are limited. Is gutting worth my time and money, and should i do pump and reg next?

Dr.
 

Stinger

Founding Member
Jul 7, 2001
7,754
24
118
Basehor (Kansas City), KS
Jul 25, 2005
#12
  • Jul 25, 2005
  • #12
I wouldn't bother with the intakes right now.

I'd spend money next on a Walbro 255HP (100 bux shipped) and then pick up an adj. regulator down the road a bit.
 

351wcoupe

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Feb 13, 2003
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Manhattan, Kansas
Jul 26, 2005
#13
  • Jul 26, 2005
  • #13
My first mods went in this order.
Fuel reg, fuel pump, then the ric gillis. Because I knew if I had the ability to crank it up I would.
 
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