nvm, looks like they went out of business. Any suggestions for getting a C4 built? or at least a kit i can buy and build the thing myself?
Bought a motor last night...
- Thread starter tannerc91gt
- Start date
Got all the black paint off the intake and WP today. Looks much better. Summit order got here too 
90% sure im going to convert the carb to run E85, anyone gone this direction yet?
Its much cheaper than race gas and will work great. Plus I just think it will be cool to be a little different
90% sure im going to convert the carb to run E85, anyone gone this direction yet?
Its much cheaper than race gas and will work great. Plus I just think it will be cool to be a little different
Doesnt really count as progress but it was a pretty slow day so I painted the WP and intake. And to anyone who spots it, i know the carb/accel. pump isnt on right in the pic, i just threw the carb on top to see what it would look like.
Going to go look at some Roller coupes next week, hoping to get started on that pretty soon.
Anyone have advice on a c4 trans kit? lot of views with no replies :violin:
- Jul 21, 2005
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1991notchbackLX
Active Member
Art Carr is the company to go for if you're planning on backing that motor with a C4. I had one behind my 03 Cobra motor termi swap '99 and it was Fing amazing. It was dead consistent, never gave me a problem, and handled the power like it was nothing. Call them and they'll likely take your old C4 as a core and send you a new kit, or rebuild it to their specs.
Cobra912
Active Member
I thought Art Carr was now Redneck Performance which as of last month is now defunct ( i have a redneck C4) but I did some research and it looks like this Art Carr:
Art Carr 2004R Performance Transmission, Racing Shifters and Torque Converters
Art Carr 2004R Performance Transmission, Racing Shifters and Torque Converters
Definitely wanting to stick with the C4. Mostly for consistancy and the fact that a manual trans that will hold what im looking for seems to be out of my price range. Thanks for the info.
1991notchbackLX
Active Member
A TH400 would hold whatever you throw at it, and they're a dime a dozen and cheap to build stout. Worth a shot, right?
Pretty simple to mate one to a 351w? I dont normally deal with auto trans because theyve always bored me to tears but theres a difference between an AOD and a built trans.
Spent some time working on it tonight. Pulled a head so I could see what kind of pistons were in it (the guy didnt know and all i could see is that they were Probes. Its got 22cc Forged Dishes in it, which puts compression right at around 10:1 compared to 12.8:1 that flat tops would have given it. Also found a part number on the Push Rods (Comp Cams High Energy Pushrods) and saw that it had some Fel-Pro 1011-1 Gaskets on it (everyones got their own opinion on HGs but i wont be using this type of gasket when I put this thing back together) Only thing left is to check the main bearings out and pull the timing cover and look for a number on the Camshaft.
On a side note: I really hate these adapter plates for the Hooker SC's
Little progress is better than none i guess
Standard Crappy Iphone pic
On a side note: I really hate these adapter plates for the Hooker SC's
Little progress is better than none i guess
Standard Crappy Iphone pic
1991notchbackLX
Active Member
It's as easy as buying an adapter. Maybe these will help you out...
Performance Automatic PA26577 Bell housing, Pro Fit, SFI, 289/302/351W, to C4, Powerglide, TH350, TH400. Jegs Part Number - 732-PA26577
Performance Automatic PA25101T Bell housing Adapter, Aluminum, Ford, 4.6/5.0L/289 to GM TH350/TH400. Jegs Part Number - 732-PA25101T
Thanks man, not sure what ill end up doing now since that 01 pretty much fell through, probably going to go back to looking for a clean coupe but its looking like the TH400 will be my best bet if I ever get that far along
So ive been doing some more reading (imagine that) and I read that the 1011-1 head gaskets aren't meant for iron block/alum head combos and that they can do damage to the heads since the steel ring (compared to copper on the 1011-2s) doesn't play nice with aluminum when the head expands and contrasts. I'm really really OCD sometimes and I'm not sure if these heads need milled or if I'm just reading too much. Took a couple pics of some very small grooves around the combustion chamber from the rings. Probably going to go over them with a straight edge and a feeler gauge.
- Jul 21, 2005
- 2,169
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- Jul 21, 2005
- 2,169
- 145
- 155
- Jul 21, 2005
- 2,169
- 145
- 155
You're a terrible little man...
I'm thinking it's fine, but there's always an Internet horror story for every situation, so i thought I'd ask those wiser than me. And I guess your opinion is welcome too
I'm thinking it's fine, but there's always an Internet horror story for every situation, so i thought I'd ask those wiser than me. And I guess your opinion is welcome too
Cobra912
Active Member
interesting subject, I just ran into this same problem. I took some advice (on here I believe it was) and decided to run the 1011-1's instead of my 9333PT's which popped last summer. Well..............should have done my homework a bit better. After a billion hours later my car is almost 100% back together and my tuner is telling me I should be using the1011-2's with the copper ring. I did lot's of reading on the subject and here is what it seems:
1) 1011-1's can be used with iron blocks and aluminum heads
2) they can cause the rings that you see (but are supposed to be designed for minimum burnelling of the aluminum)
3) every has there opinion - some say they have used them for years like that with no issues, others say they were terrible. a thread on corral supports this and Jay Allen approves of their use
4) I'd have the heads checked anyways, they may need to be resurfaced anyways
I'm not pulling mine apart again, the money tree has died.
What has me confused is that the 9333pt1's have a stainless ring as well as the 1011-1 and I had zero issues with them causing the grooves.
1) 1011-1's can be used with iron blocks and aluminum heads
2) they can cause the rings that you see (but are supposed to be designed for minimum burnelling of the aluminum)
3) every has there opinion - some say they have used them for years like that with no issues, others say they were terrible. a thread on corral supports this and Jay Allen approves of their use
4) I'd have the heads checked anyways, they may need to be resurfaced anyways
I'm not pulling mine apart again, the money tree has died.
What has me confused is that the 9333pt1's have a stainless ring as well as the 1011-1 and I had zero issues with them causing the grooves.
Cobra912
Active Member
oh and I forgot, if you go to Canfield and AFR's site they actually recommend the 1011-1 for use with their heads
I noticed that that's what they recommended but it didn't look like it was recommended based on block material. I can have them milled for free but I'd like to avoid it if possible.
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