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Bought an 87 GT...problems and questions!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1FatPony
  • Start date Start date Sep 16, 2006
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1FatPony

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Jun 5, 2005
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Sep 17, 2006
#21
  • Sep 17, 2006
  • #21
I am pretty convinced that something bad is wrong. The last time it overheated it was less than 10 minutes after I filled up the radiator. When it overheated the temp was way up so I couldnt even see the needle anymore. I checked under the hood and it was overheating into the overflow tank. No leaks. i waited until it cooled off, filled the radiator back up and finally got it home (5 more minutes). When i got there it was hot but not overflowing yet. this morning i drained the radiator and barely any water came out. Less than one bottle of the collant was in the radiator. and there was barly any water on the ground.
 
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jete

New Member
Jul 23, 2006
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Lexington Kentucky
Sep 17, 2006
#22
  • Sep 17, 2006
  • #22
Sounds like a case of terminal head gasket failure.
 

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.
Sep 13, 2004
2,487
4
0
Miami, Ok
Sep 17, 2006
#23
  • Sep 17, 2006
  • #23
ninety15.0 said:
Well thats your problem right there. You need a t-stat or else that water does not stay in the radiator for long enough to effectively cool down. Replace it with a nice mr. gasket 180* t-stat and see what happens. If you are consistently blowing white smoke i would also look hard at a cheap rebuilt/gasket set. you can just re-ring and bearing it for well under 1.5k...like u said u could afford. Even make some improvements...good luck
Click to expand...


i dont think having no t-stat would cause the engine to overheat. it would just take forever to get up to temp, but it shouldnt have any overheatting problems.
 

JChalfan

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Nov 27, 2002
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Bellevue, WA
Sep 18, 2006
#24
  • Sep 18, 2006
  • #24
1FatPony said:
this morning i drained the radiator and barely any water came out. Less than one bottle of the collant was in the radiator. and there was barly any water on the ground.
Click to expand...

I agree with jete, sounds like a likely head gasket failure.

I also agree with vristang that pressure testing the cooling system is in order before you go tearing the engine down.

Out of curiosity, what all has been done to the engine that you know of? Does it have a stock intake, heads, and headers? I'm just curious if the guy you bought it from was BSing you about the cam. Usually people don't put a bigger cam in an otherwise stock engine.

Good luck, let us know what you find.

Jeff
 

1FatPony

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Sep 18, 2006
#25
  • Sep 18, 2006
  • #25
the engine mods include crane cam, k&n, flows, and I think thats it. Im pretty sure there is an aftermarket cam in there. When the engine is on the whole engine shakes but when reved up sounds smooth. It also has the crane cam sticker on the fan shroud.

I will try to get the heads off today and see how the gaskets look.
 

dastang2

Active Member
Dec 11, 2003
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tx
Sep 18, 2006
#26
  • Sep 18, 2006
  • #26
won't the gaskets just look split apart, it won't show that it is blown in all cases. maybe you should also look for the cause of the blown gasket also.
 

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.
Sep 13, 2004
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Miami, Ok
Sep 18, 2006
#27
  • Sep 18, 2006
  • #27
if your going to go as far as "check" the head gaskets, it would seem it would be a good idea to go ahead and swap em out while your there lol.
 

1FatPony

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Sep 18, 2006
#28
  • Sep 18, 2006
  • #28
Foxfan88 said:
if your going to go as far as "check" the head gaskets, it would seem it would be a good idea to go ahead and swap em out while your there lol.
Click to expand...
yea thats what I was going to do. Arnt you suppose to change any gasket once it is opened? I will probably change the valve cover gasket and maybe the exhaust manifold gasket. I think they sell them in kits.
 

Philstang

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Oct 28, 2004
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Sep 18, 2006
#29
  • Sep 18, 2006
  • #29
Rather than a cam, the rough idle may just be the timing off, that's what was up with my 5.0 when I bought it. I set it back to 10-12 and it smoothed out and idled much better.
 

1FatPony

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Sep 18, 2006
#30
  • Sep 18, 2006
  • #30
Philstang said:
Rather than a cam, the rough idle may just be the timing off, that's what was up with my 5.0 when I bought it. I set it back to 10-12 and it smoothed out and idled much better.
Click to expand...
Its funny that you say that. While I was taking the engine apart to look at the head gaskets, I noticed that the distributor was a little loose and I could turn it with my hand. I am not sure if that got turned at some point but that would definitly be a cause to the rough idle.
 
P

Phatt_daddy

Member
Apr 22, 2005
219
1
19
Hytop, AL
Sep 19, 2006
#31
  • Sep 19, 2006
  • #31
I know you said that you have alot of problems with the car but is it still speed density or did the previous owner convert it to mass air? with an aftermarket cam that could also be the culprit of the bogging.
 

1FatPony

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Sep 19, 2006
#32
  • Sep 19, 2006
  • #32
im not sure. how can you tell?
 

JChalfan

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Nov 27, 2002
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Bellevue, WA
Sep 19, 2006
#33
  • Sep 19, 2006
  • #33
1FatPony said:
im not sure. how can you tell?
Click to expand...

If you still have speed density, there should be a plastic tube that runs from the air box (where the filter is) to the throttle body. If it has been converted to mass air, there should be a cast aluminum peice right after the air box, with a electric sensor bolted to it and a wiring harness attached. I'd post a picture, but I don't have any before my SC install.

Jeff
 

1FatPony

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Sep 19, 2006
#34
  • Sep 19, 2006
  • #34
its has the aftermarket k&n
 

JChalfan

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Nov 27, 2002
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Bellevue, WA
Sep 20, 2006
#35
  • Sep 20, 2006
  • #35
1FatPony said:
its has the aftermarket k&n
Click to expand...

Here's a picture with the MAF circled in red at the bottom. Ignore the chrome intake pipe and stuff. If you have that sensor between your air filter and engine, then it has been converted to mass air. If you don't have that sensor, you still have speed density.

BTW, I just snagged this picture from google, don't know whose it is or where it came from.

Jeff

 

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1FatPony

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Jun 5, 2005
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Sep 20, 2006
#36
  • Sep 20, 2006
  • #36
I dont think I have that. Is is easy to convert to mass air? Where could I buy the conversion? I will most likely buy a rebuilt 302 and will probably convert that too.
 

Flavadave4

Active Member
Nov 28, 2003
1,044
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Utica, NY
Sep 20, 2006
#37
  • Sep 20, 2006
  • #37
white smoke is prolly the water leaking into the cylinder......definatly would cause a rough running scenario. Good start would be to tear it down and see what the head gaskets look like
 

dastang2

Active Member
Dec 11, 2003
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tx
Sep 20, 2006
#38
  • Sep 20, 2006
  • #38
that's BS did this guy know anything about anything.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,249
17,934
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Massachusetts
Sep 20, 2006
#39
  • Sep 20, 2006
  • #39
Something tells me the previous owner installed the cam, did a poor job reinstalling the heads, probably didn't torque them right, popped a HG, and pulled the t-stat out in an attempt to cure the problem, then yelled obscenities for a couple days and decided to sell the car to 1FatPony


BTW, speed density setups don't really respond well to some cams. Do you know which Crane Cam is in it? If it's running like crap it's probably not a speed density friendly one
 
S

Synned

took tubgirl on a date and got banned
Mar 31, 2005
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Philly
Sep 20, 2006
#40
  • Sep 20, 2006
  • #40
Note if you have a stock intake, you wont be able to directly see the MAF sensor.
 
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