Brake noise! sample inside.

Wow thats the first thing I have downloaded from rapidshare that was not ****


Take the wheels off and look at the pads. Sounds like you need brakes to me.

dave_id said:

ok cool. I guess i'll be doing rotors and pads...
I've never done it before though, anybody care to point me in the right direction? good tutorials? Thanks

Click to expand...

Get a haynes book for $15 at Pep Boys or Kragen

it's easy.

1. after the car is jacked up and wheels are off turn the wheel so you can access the bolts on the back of one of the calipers.

2. remove the two caliper slide bolts ( I think it's a 13mm and you have to hold the nut on the other side with a wrench I can not remember the sizes but you can figure it out)

3. lift caliper out of caliper bracket. The use a 1/2 breaker bar and 15MM socket to crack the caliper bracket bolts free. Then remove these two bolts.

4. If there are two to three clips on the lugnuts holding the rotor on remove these with side cutters and discard them ( they are used to hold the rotors in place during assembly but I will tell you how to do it without them later)

5. remove rotor, you may have to hit it with a hammer a few times to knock it free if you live in the northeast or other rustbelt area.

6. use one of the old pads and a very large channel lock or what I use is a large vice grip for holding sheetmetal while welding and what you want to do is place the old pad in front of the pistons and compress against the old pad to force the pistons back into the bores.

7. after you put the rotor back on the hub use one of the lugnuts to hold the rotor in place, this will make it easier to bolt the caliper bracket back on.

8. install in reverse of removal and remember to PUMP THE BRAKES BEFORE YOU START THE CAR.. Unless you like having no brakes remember to pump them untill you have a pedal then start the car.

and ALWAYS

check all 4 wheels. The front making a noise can be caused by the rear. I've seen real caliper pins stick/rust due to the little rubber boots splitting, which will make the caliper stick and apply pressure all the time. This can overheat that caliper, boil the brake fluid, and pressurize the entire system making all the wheels drag and _really_ makes the car drive sluggishly for obvious reasons.

These caliper pins have been problematic on the mustangs. Each time you replace the pads, it is worthwhile to remove the caliper bracket, clean the pin bores out (I use a brass gun-cleaning brush + solvent) and clean the pins as well. Some good hi-temp grease and you are good to go until the next pad change with no sticking.

You can buy a "hardware kit" at most auto parts stores that has new pin boots and the shiny anti-squeal springs that go on each end of the caliper and in the middle. Not very expensive.