It all started when I was still had an all stock brake system. Everytime I'd brake, right when I'm about to stop or close to coming to a full stop, I'd get this sqealing which might or might not be from some part of my braking system. Since then I've upgraded my front brakes to 13" bullit calipers with hawk pads and powerslot rotors. For the rear I've upgraded to new pads and powerslot rotors. I STILL have this same squealing problem and the only thing I haven't replaced yet is the rear brake calipers but I'm not even sure that's gonna fix it. Anybody have any ideas as to a suspension issue or something rubbing on something as I come to a stop? I'm open to anything because I've been having this issue since the beginning of the summer and I can't stand it anymore!!!!
Brake Squeaking Problem
- Thread starter Stangdriver1119
- Start date
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
It's not the brake parts you bought nor is it really your caliper. Sounds like it most likely is your rear caliper guide. I remember having the sqeuking sound comming from my front wheels, then when i went to the shop at my school to lathe my discs while re installing them i noticed that the channel that the pad slides along had exposed metal that had been scraped away on the left side. I used anti seaze to coat the channel guide then some on the pad where it hit the piston and it solved it for about a year and 1/2 maybe 2 but i have the same problem now just a lil quiter. I might just buy new calpiers and discs now anyways so im putting it off.
The channel guides should be insulated from squealing by stainless steel shim clips. Be careful with the anti-seize, I used it on the ears of my pads and they would not seat properly. I got shuddering every time I let off of the brakes after stopping. I finally had to take it all apart and remove the anti-seize (not easy) to correct this and then the pads finally seated.
i do brakes for a living and have never had a noise comeback. this is what i do to eliminate noise.
-use a sander and polish the complete hub surface and and flat mounting points on the spindle as well as bracket. (i sand till its a mirror finish).
-i apply a thin coat of NAPA Syl-Glide onto the face and outside of the hub as well as to and flat points i used the sander on.
-the brackets i will fully disassemble and clean with aqueous cleaner and then dry with brake cleaner and new lint free paper towels. and slide pins get cleaned and coated with Syl-Glide. i put them in and move them back and forth making sure theres no binding whatsoever.
-i apply a SMALL dab of anti-seize onto the bolts and torque them to factory specs.
-on the pads i apply Syl-Glide to any point on the bracket they contact, note only use a small amount and dont get it on the face of the pad or the rotor.
-i throw away any backing plates that were with the old pads because my supplier sends out new ones.
-the rotor gets cleaned with warm water and clean lint free paper towel, then get sprayed with brake cleaner
-once everything is assembled i go through with the torque wrench again and retorque everything.
-i then follow Brembo's brake-in procedure for the 00R kit on every car i od no matter the brand
-the car comes back into the shop and i recheck the torque again on every fastener, then the wheel gets properly torqued again
thats what i do, and im basically flat rate. i would rather take longer the first time and never have a comeback then blast through a job and redo it a few weeks later. btw any time i do brake work i do a full fluid flush with a Vacula on the whole system, then hand bleed each corner until the pedal is to my liking.
also, where i work i only let the sales people use the premium parts. a lot of times you get the option of a cheap part and premium. i also will refuse to do a job if the customer wants me to use cheap stuff or do just half the job. the only time i let customers give me stuff is if they want me to use a special brake fluid, like Valvoline synthetic.
-use a sander and polish the complete hub surface and and flat mounting points on the spindle as well as bracket. (i sand till its a mirror finish).
-i apply a thin coat of NAPA Syl-Glide onto the face and outside of the hub as well as to and flat points i used the sander on.
-the brackets i will fully disassemble and clean with aqueous cleaner and then dry with brake cleaner and new lint free paper towels. and slide pins get cleaned and coated with Syl-Glide. i put them in and move them back and forth making sure theres no binding whatsoever.
-i apply a SMALL dab of anti-seize onto the bolts and torque them to factory specs.
-on the pads i apply Syl-Glide to any point on the bracket they contact, note only use a small amount and dont get it on the face of the pad or the rotor.
-i throw away any backing plates that were with the old pads because my supplier sends out new ones.
-the rotor gets cleaned with warm water and clean lint free paper towel, then get sprayed with brake cleaner
-once everything is assembled i go through with the torque wrench again and retorque everything.
-i then follow Brembo's brake-in procedure for the 00R kit on every car i od no matter the brand
-the car comes back into the shop and i recheck the torque again on every fastener, then the wheel gets properly torqued again
thats what i do, and im basically flat rate. i would rather take longer the first time and never have a comeback then blast through a job and redo it a few weeks later. btw any time i do brake work i do a full fluid flush with a Vacula on the whole system, then hand bleed each corner until the pedal is to my liking.
also, where i work i only let the sales people use the premium parts. a lot of times you get the option of a cheap part and premium. i also will refuse to do a job if the customer wants me to use cheap stuff or do just half the job. the only time i let customers give me stuff is if they want me to use a special brake fluid, like Valvoline synthetic.
thanks, i do actually want to open up my own shop one of these days. im usually like that with anything i do on a car. ive come to realise that complete and total anal retentiveness when working on a car results in no comebacks, and happy customers. plus i want to get to the point with any shop i open that i just have people coming that understand that. i refuse to do hack, or halfass jobs, and i hate working on cars of people that just want that.
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