Brakes

z9_87

New Member
Apr 16, 2004
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Urbana, IL
Having a problems with the brakes half cutting out now and then. What happens is the anti-lock light and the other red brake light come on durring normal driving and when they do then the brake get pretty soft. It's not a terrible problem but it does take a couple more feet to stop. Also, I noticed that if I shut the car off while the brakes are a little mushy, then a motor/pump of some sort runs a good while afterwards, it the one just under the brake fluid resivoir. Problem with that is, in the cold weather it's eating at my battery a little to much.

So does anyone know why it's doing this, what it is, how to fix it?

Thanks,
Zach
 
The noise that you are hearing is your abs motor/pump (whatever you want to call it). It's odd that it runs when the car has been shut off. I'm sure you know how it works, the abs module regulates the brake fluid (pressure) when a "possible lock up" is detected by the pcm/ecm. That is why (with a normal situation) you slam on the brakes, the brake pedal starts pulsating and if it's in a controlled situation, you can hear the abs module working. If it's a panic situation, it's all about the pucker factor.
You could have air in the abs system, in that case, you'll need to find someone, service manual, or alldata to get the procedure for bleeding the abs unit (different vehicles have different procedures). On late model vehicles, when the abs light comes on a "problem" has been detected and the abs system shuts down, although you still have brakes. The mushy brakes could be air, or check brake fluid level, check for leaks around the master cylinder, calipers or wheel cylinders. These issues can make the red light come on.
But with the abs motor coming on with the vehicle shut off, I would check your wiring to the abs unit (shorts to ground, short to power, etc.) because it should not come on unless the pcm/ecm tells it to. You're describing several issues that could be all related to one problem and it's screwing up other things. I would start with the most simple. Fluid level and leaks. Then maybe connections. I'm not that familiar with OBD1 systems, on an OBDII system you can pull abs codes.

Maybe this can help to get a starting point on the diagnosis.
Later
 
Don't know if it applies to your car, but I seem to remember some of the older Fords w/ ABS had an accumulator mounted to the ABS unit. It's basically a black bulb-looking part that is pressurized. I think it was a fairly common problem for them to loose pressure over time. I think if that was the case, the accumulator could be unscrewed and replaced.
 
Fluid Level is fine and there's no visible leaks, I can look into bleeding the brakes, again. I've done it before when I replaced the rear calipers.

How do you pull abs codes? Is there a connector over by the abs motor or something?

THanks,
Zach

Edit on this: I just found an article on two things, one to pull the codes and second if mentions that...

"Anti-Lock Warning Light and Red Brake Light come on after brakes applied.

* Most likely this is indication of a weak or bad Accumulator. If you have this symptom it is important to fix it as soon as you can because you are cycling the Hydraulic Pump Motor unnecessarily which will cause this high buck part to fail sooner than it needs to."

This seems like my problem, but I'm not going to run out and buy an accumulator. What do you guy's think?

Link to site: http://www.albeedigital.com/supercoupe/articles/abs-system.html