Brakes Brembo Cadillac ATS 4 Piston Calipers

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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Explain 'radial mount'
I don't feel like googlefu-ing right now.
Basically a bracket gets bolted to the spindle, while not permanent it never needs to be removed because the caliper bolts come in through the top. Rotors and calipers come off in minutes. Most likely racing is where they came from.
Once you have brakes that work in this manner, it's hard to think about buying anything else.
The alcon brakes on my saleen explorer were radial and i loved it.

Some examples on that page.
Not all setups are that expensive. There are ways to acquire the calipers cheap since many are 130mm spacing.
 
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Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Baer designs their calipers that way as well.

Here’s a pic showing the mount that bolts to the spindle. Then you bolt the caliper down to the mount.
CA6F94AB-6E51-4397-A0BB-41C7095D6184.jpeg
 
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Swhitney

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Feb 11, 2019
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Yes, they are 43MM pistons vs the GT/Cobra's 38mm pistons. Both are made by VARGA. They are a direct swap so your parking brakes and the pads will work in them. SS brake lines will be the same. The only issue might be banjo bolts but that's because Ford used 10mm and 3/8" in the rear calipers depending on the year, so it will be a 50/50 shot if the banjo bolts on your current calipers will work on them or if you will need to buy new ones.

You definitely will need to upside the MC to the 94-95 GT 1 1/16" MC if you use the 43mm rears. The 1" bore MC will give you a soft pedal with a long stroke and be more sensitive.

Ford Taurus rear calipers.

The caliper brackets do not fit over the rear rotors. Do I use the Cobra brackets and pads but then use the 43mm Taurus caliper? I'm stuck...
 

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Ford Taurus rear calipers.

The caliper brackets do not fit over the rear rotors. Do I use the Cobra brackets and pads but then use the 43mm Taurus caliper? I'm stuck...

You need to use the cobra bracket or grind the slot slightly wider to clear the rotor. The bracket with the Taurus caliper is the same as the GT/V6 mustang and clears the smaller GT rotor.

With the thicker rotor, you can spec Cobra pads which are slightly thinner.

See below. Red part is off the cobra, and the bare cast caliper is the 43mm Taurus. Pads are cobra for the thicker rotors.

AF298B86-45E1-464C-8E78-271EE462E346.jpeg
51BA3264-BFC4-4131-8FC8-0649461A43B3.jpeg
 

KRUISR

5 Year Member
Apr 16, 2015
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Or use Lincoln LS rear calipers (also 43mm piston) and mount brackets in the first place. Lincoln uses a 20mm thick vented rotor from the factory (vs the 18mm Cobra and 14mm SN95 and Taurus solid rotors). If I remember right it may even be interchangeable with Taurus/Cobra/SN calipers as was shown above by Mike.

If going to Lincoln LS calipers the pads are larger than SN as well.

IMG_0457.JPG
Lincoln pad on top, SN below.
 

Swhitney

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Got it now, thank you so much! You guys rock!

One last question, for now.... :)

E-brake freaking sucks! I have the adjustable cable from LMR and have followed the install instructions, and yet still my E-brake is garbage. I am almost all the way maxed out on the adjuster that lives underneath the E-brake handle, but the brakes barley drag. Is there something I am missing to get the rear brakes to grab the rotor?

Much appreciated!
 

KRUISR

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It is likely the length of exposed cable is longer than you need. Unfortunately that is something that is not easily adjustable.

Did you notice the picture on the LMR website for the Front Adjustable kit shows 93 Cobra/SN95 style cables and front cable mount bracket.

1657084382645.png
 
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Swhitney

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The two cables are for sure getting tight, and the caliper is actuating. It seems like the piston is retracting too far when the brake is released and when the E-brake is applied it doesn't contact the rotor. I am curios and will try this today, if I take the caliper off the bracket depress the brake pedal so the piston extends out, then spin the piston in just enough to get back over the rotor. Now when I pull the E-brake it should have enough to contact the rotor. Thoughts?

I will report my findings today.
 

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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You shouldn't have to adjust anything with regards to the piston. By stepping on the brakes and activating the piston hydraulically, the piston extends out as much as needed to squeeze the pads. The parking brake lever then activates a sort of rachet mechanism that moves the piston to clamp for the parking brake. As the pads wear, the distance is constantly being adjusted by the piston continuously extending.

You do need to set the cable pre-load to be pretty tight initially. Put the rear end on jackstands and if the back wheels spin freely, tighten up the center cable adjustment a bit more and retest. You can get it pretty tight before it will start to drag the rear wheels.

When you have it set, use a laser temp gun to see if the back wheels are dragging by checking rotor temps. Should be equal to fronts or slightly less. If you are warmer, you likely have the cables too tight and need to loosen it a turn

It took me 2-3 tries of adjusting the cables to get it right. They do stretch initially. At first, my parking brake barely held but now it will hold fast on an incline. You are likely just not tight enough
 
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Swhitney

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Feb 11, 2019
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You shouldn't have to adjust anything with regards to the piston. By stepping on the brakes and activating the piston hydraulically, the piston extends out as much as needed to squeeze the pads. The parking brake lever then activates a sort of rachet mechanism that moves the piston to clamp for the parking brake. As the pads wear, the distance is constantly being adjusted by the piston continuously extending.

You do need to set the cable pre-load to be pretty tight initially. Put the rear end on jackstands and if the back wheels spin freely, tighten up the center cable adjustment a bit more and retest. You can get it pretty tight before it will start to drag the rear wheels.

When you have it set, use a laser temp gun to see if the back wheels are dragging by checking rotor temps. Should be equal to fronts or slightly less. If you are warmer, you likely have the cables too tight and need to loosen it a turn

It took me 2-3 tries of adjusting the cables to get it right. They do stretch initially. At first, my parking brake barely held but now it will hold fast on an incline. You are likely just not tight enough


Thank you for your input.

I set the tension pretty tight where they are dragging just a bit and they got a little warmer then the front (15 degrees). The E-brake still does not work and when I pull the handle it has god tension. Maybe I need to drive the car a bit more to set them in?

Also, one more question, what brake booster is required for this setup? My brake pedal is very firm and doesn't seem right. Everything else is brand new except the brake booster, so I figured that could be a problem.
 

KRUISR

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I am using a booster I pulled from a 94/95 Mustang (GT/V6 are the same). It required a slight enlarging of one of the booster bolt holes and a little massaging of the shock tower to facilitate installation (it gets hidden by the booster and master cylinder and you won't see it).
 

Swhitney

Active Member
Feb 11, 2019
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What master cylinder are you using again?


Are the pads bedded in yet? They actually require a little bedding in to get the grip they need to hold. Put a few miles on the setup and then evaluate


I went with the 94-95 GT 1 1/16” master cylinder. I will give the pads a bit more time before burning the entire car to the ground out of frustration. :)