Build the 347 from hell!

Mustang_Punk

Founding Member
Jan 15, 2002
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Sac, Ca
Its about time to retire the ol' 302, with more that 100k shes done me good.
im looking for a lil' more meat this time around!

I can't seem to find a kit with forged rods/pistons they all have just forged rods or forged rods and cranks...what gives?

Also they are all flat, I need dished cause im in cali and our gas sucks, plus I might get a kenne bell

if anybody knows of a good cheap one with the non oil burning specs lemme know!
 
Just piece it together, use the 5.400 rod with the appropriate piston and keep the pin out of the ring land. People think you just throw a kit in a bare block and go, hardly the case most of the time.
 
I found some Probe dished/forged pistons one is a 14.2cc dish for a CR of 9.19 with 58cc heads and the other is 20.1cc dish for CR of 8.59 with 58cc heads, im thinking the 14.2s would be best since I will have to be NA for a few months, what do you guys think?
 
AFR205s, GT42R-76 turbo, TFS-R intake with box upper, 83 lb low impedence injectors, FTI custom cam, FAST engine management, Dart Iron eagle block, sonny bryant billett 3.250 crank (bore to 4.125 to make the 347), Oliver billet I-beam 5.4" rods w/ rod-bolt upgrade, CP custom high-boost pistons for 8.5:1 compression, what else have I forgotten?....

Should be good for around 750 rwhp on pump gas and about 1000 on race gas, completely streetable, reliable forever, and doable with stock A/C.

I've laid it all out for you. All you have to do is build it. Good luck.

Chris
 
here it is:

Eagle Cast 3.40 "347" Crankshaft $199

SBF Eagle SIR5400CB (5.400" bushed, 2.10 rod journal) 331,347 $239

Probe SBF 347 Dished Pistons, 5.315 rod, 14.2cc dish Forged $449

TOTAL: $887 thats only two paychecks! what do you think of the combo?
 
TheUser said:
If I were to build a 347, especially one that's gonna have a Kenne Bell on it later, I think I'd splurge on a forged crank.

I'd also suggest a forged crank assembly, the blower puts a lot of stress on the snout. Build it once...

You have a 5.4" rod listed which requires a 1.09" CH piston (ring intersects the pin area)

You have a Probe piston listed for a 5.315" rod (1.175" CH) ring stays out of pin

You can either do a 3.4" stroke, 5.315" rod, 1.175" piston or 3.4" stroke, 5.315" rod, 1.109" piston


Instead of mixing and matching a kit from someone reputable would do you justice....
 
I would be passing on eagle products, but thats just me, The last 3 cranks needed to be cut 10-10 and renitrided before using them. Serious quality control issues. Scat would be my suggestion
 
there was a guy on here who was a scat dealer or knew one, but I can't remember who it is/was.

I was also going to suggest the idea of looking into a stroker kit from coast high performance, but it seems as if their website isn't working, so I don't know what's up with them.

It'll take you a few extra paychecks to get the good stuff, but for what you're building, that's definately the way I'd go. It's the way you'll go next time if you don't this time...when you break your lower quality parts from all of the power.
 
My dad said he used to use SCAT stuff on his Vee-dub and to go with that, My engine builder said that with a stock block, a forged crank wouldn't be worth it, he says the stock block will break before the crank

So we are all agreed that Probe are the pistons to go with?

Well SCAT dosen't seem to have a 5.315 rod either, they do however have cranks, but apparently only for 5.4 rods! ACK!
 
I hate spamming the forums but I can set you up with the correct Probe piston, Probe I beam rod -ARP fastners 5.315", and a SCAT 9000 series crank, rings and bearings...all will take 600hp or last longer then the stock block. This way you know you are getting the correct components the first time...

I am not a fan on the Eagle cast stuff however their forged stuff has been very nice and greatly approved. I use both SCAT and EAGLE on my forged cranks, along with a few other high end manufactors.