Building a 331 (_(*`'

defcondaze said:
Well guys i've just decided to forget tring to get my engine built at a shop and am now selling the stroker kit/block i have

i ordered a dss pro bullit 331 short block (should be here today) with n-61 cam gonna use twisted heads w anderson spring upgrade 1.6 rockers 77maf 30 lb injectors 70mm accufab tb and holley system maxII intake, any guess on my power out put ?

i will be posting my dyno sheets hopefully within 2 months when ill be hauln ass with my new engine


Shoulda went 347 if you were buying a new shortblock.

I can see 350rwhp with that combo. I would have gone with an N-71 cam or if you have the gear and compression, an N-91.
 
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I just wanted to stick my nose in here about the oil ring issue. I thought pretty much the whole reason for going with a 331 over a 347 was that the 331 didnt have the oil ring through the pin and would be a better street motor due to not having the oil consumption issues that 347's are known for due to the pin location. No?
 
MrKwik said:
I just wanted to stick my nose in here about the oil ring issue. I thought pretty much the whole reason for going with a 331 over a 347 was that the 331 didnt have the oil ring through the pin and would be a better street motor due to not having the oil consumption issues that 347's are known for due to the pin location. No?

+1. I talked to the guys at Scat and said they recommended the 331 for a street driven vehicle because of the oil consumption issue, and that at higher RPM's the 331 produced more HP by a considerable amount.
 
88Stang331 said:
+1. I talked to the guys at Scat and said they recommended the 331 for a street driven vehicle because of the oil consumption issue, and that at higher RPM's the 331 produced more HP by a considerable amount.


LMFAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :rlaugh: :rlaugh: :rlaugh:

News flash for some of you people, some 331 kits come with the pin through the oil ring :nice: But that doesn't matter regardless. Nope, 331's do NOT make more power up top over 347's. Using the same induction parts on each engine, the 347 makes more from idle to where ever you let off the throttle ;) Go over to www.hardcore50.com and post the crap you just posted and you will be fu cking laughed at!!

If your stroker burns oil, it wasn't built/machined correctly.

To answer your question Mr. Kwik, the answer is no :)
 
i've read alot about the oil ring issue and i hear its mostly the way the block is honed/prepd if the bore is good then you should have no problems , the 347 pistons nowadays dont have the wristpin with the oil ring anyway, but i still decided to go with the 331 because i plan on adding a blower later (8psi) and theres less stress on the block with 331 over 347
 
defcondaze said:
i've read alot about the oil ring issue and i hear its mostly the way the block is honed/prepd if the bore is good then you should have no problems , the 347 pistons nowadays dont have the wristpin with the oil ring anyway, but i still decided to go with the 331 because i plan on adding a blower later (8psi) and theres less stress on the block with 331 over 347

Smart choice since its a stock block combo, go with the smaller engine. The 347 will obviously make more than the 331 so no need to make as much power as you can with the stock block. I forgot that you were doing a blower. If it was n/a, 347 would be the better choice.
 
If an oil ring obstructs the piston ring designation, it does matter.

A 331 has a better piston/rod ratio and the pistons have more "meat" on them. Good for boosted applications.

331's have less average piston speed, some could argue better longevity.

A 331 will be revving more freely at the higher rpms than a 347, but the 347 will make a bit more hp.

The 331 was a great choice, good luck with it and have fun.
 
it took me at least 5 years to save up to build my car. kinda hard when i was making maybe $300/week, with child support payment at like 40%(thanks Missouri) plus other normal bills on top of that. only used card if i had to order from summit or whoever, but i paid it off at the end of the month after saving months on end before i made an order. i paid cash for everything i could get local.

Holly sh***!!! Is there an error in the prior posts dates or it really took you 3 years to get it done?? You're one hell of a patient guy!!
 
Yeah I know what you mean!! I'm also separated with 3 kids and my employer cut our wages 10% this year... So I just waited for some guy to go broke and I bought the car from him with all the goodies at a very good price. I knew I didn't have the money nor the time to build a car from scratch so that was my only option. Too bad for the guy who had to sell his ride but if I hadn't bought it, someone else would've... But I did manage to shelve another 3 grands in the car afterwards to turn the car from a drag configuration to a lapping suspension setup.
 
dyno results

Holly sh***!!! Is there an error in the prior posts dates or it really took you 3 years to get it done?? You're one hell of a patient guy!!

if you want to count from when i started buying parts it would be 6-7years total.

heres the dyno results if anyone is interested :flag:



dynocomp.jpg
 
Good but was these numbers achieved with a tune? Seems your A/F ratio at peak hp and torque is a little on the lean side no?

yes the blue lines are after the tune, red is stock computer run.
i dont have a supercharger yet, not sure when if ever i will get one.
12.5:1 A/F i was told was pretty much ideal for a n/a combo