Butt kicking.... :)

[time only]

Went down to the track last week for some baseline ET and get my butt kick. Your should see all the Hondas getting in line to do it. Massive wheel spins on street tires and a one wheel peel from the stock posi did not help,my best is a 15.5 at 94 mph.
Is it cost effective to rebuild the stock posi or just go aftermarket like putting in a Auburn ? I am taking my Weld wheels and Drag Radial out of storage..heheh

 

[352Ford2]

clutches are like 50 bucks, much cheaper to rebuild it.

that is what I do, if you want a stronger rear end grab a cairier out of a bronco or truck for 15 bucks at pull a part, buy some axleshafts, then you have a 31 spline setup for cheaper than just a aftermarket 28 spline posi unit

 

[Johnnb]

You have to be careful anymore not to under estimate Honda's and such now as it's easy to have a 12 second street car for less then $4k.

If you are going to drag race your car and your talking about running drag slicks or radials, I would not half ass it and buy an Auburn unit, or Detroit locker. The time and money you would spend to have something re-built or going and looking in junkyards for parts and wondering if they are going to hold and then blowing them up and having to start all over again.

I guess what you need to do is figure out what your funds look like and go from there. I am always the type that likes to do it right, especially if you plan on getting serious.

My car with stock motor, aod, Strange diff, and Moser axels with babying it out of the hole due to no traction and street tires was running low 14's.

 

[breakemlose]

You have to be careful anymore not to under estimate Honda's and such now as it's easy to have a 12 second street car for less then $4k.

Very true i was just at the ground zero dyno meet. They had around 4-5 420whp civics there. Just when i thought i didn't have to turn up the boost anymore. With this stiffer competition looks like i am going to have to be on the ragged edge of boost from now on.

 

[Johnnb]

Ya well for the most part Ground Zero's cars are just dyno queens but it is impressive to watch them pull 4-600hp out of those small motors.

Good thing about your car though is that it has torque and is able to accellerate when you get into boost, not like theirs that just does a smoke show when boost comes on. :haha:

 

[stock50LX]

Went down to the track last week for some baseline ET and get my butt kick. Your should see all the Hondas getting in line to do it. Massive wheel spins on street tires and a one wheel peel from the stock posi did not help,my best is a 15.5 at 94 mph.
Is it cost effective to rebuild the stock posi or just go aftermarket like putting in a Auburn ? I am taking my Weld wheels and Drag Radial out of storage..heheh

You have the MPH to run 14's, Kin. I think you should fix the stocker. If you run an auto, that's all you need. I ran 11's with mine using a 5 spd.

 

[MyFordsFly]

Kin, what rear gears do you have in there right now?

 

[time only]

Kin, what rear gears do you have in there right now?

3:27 gear in there right now. I am thinking of a Auburn as I was quote $400 for a standard rebuild not even replacing the bearing etc.etc.. That is too high for reusing the factory stuff.



Kin

 

[MyFordsFly]

Hmmm, I suppose some 3.73s would be a good idea as well. Most places will do the diff rebuild for under $100 if you getting gears done at the same time. Something to think about.

 

[ddonaca351]

Have whoever rebuilds the unit put "a kit and a third" in it. Thats what the two Jeffs did on mine, and it has stood up to several years of abuse without any problems.

You could put a kit and 2/3 in it, but it will scuff the tires in parking lotts and could possibly break an axle over time. (so I am told)

Dave-

 

[loud 95]

As I see you have more power modifications planned for the car, I would say upgrade to an aftermarket limited slip and some race axles. If you were doing the labor yourself, or you had a friend that would do it for free, I would just rebuild the stock unit for now.
On a side note, we ran my friend's '87 LX hatch about a month ago. It is also an AOD car. The modifications the car has consist of simply a K&N filter, full Mac exhaust and advanced timing. By the time we got the car to the track, the differential was letting go. The first run was a 15.1, with some horrible sixty foot. The next run was a 15.0. After that, the diff totally let go. Each subsequent run was a tenth slower. The night ended with a 15.4 or 15.5. Don't feel too bad!

 

[lamrith]

Rebuild that stocker and do a gear swap to 3.55's or 3.73. Also do what Dave said, I think he is refering to the oft used extra friction disk that tightens the diff up a bit. $400 for a diff rebuild is rediculous. If you are just replacing the frictions, it is a job a person with basic mechanical skills can do easily in a driveway with some jackstands.

Short summary version;

• get the car up on stand and crank the real diff cover loose to drain the oil into a pan
  
• while that runs out, remove the back wheels, then the brake assemblies so that the axles are free to slide out of the housing.
• By that time your diff is 99% empty, remove the cover.
• Slowly rotate the diff so that you can see the Clips inside and remove them both
• The axle shafts should then slide out.
• Using a cross cross pattern loosen and remove the 4 carrier bolts. MAKE SURE TO KEEP THEM TOGETHER AS REMOVED AND KEEP THE SPACERS WITH THEM SO THEY GO BACK EXACTLY AS REMOVED.
• The diff should now be free to remove from the housing.
• Remove the pin holding the diff idler gear shaft in place.
• Make note of the steel/friction orientation of the stock assembly then remove them all.
• Install the new frictions and steels using the same orientation as the stock set-up.
• install the optional extra friction (someone here please chime in what exactly to do)
• re-assemble everything in reverse order to dissassembly

 

[time only]

Thanks for the info..I went to a different shop and get a much better price for the rebuild so I am 90% sure I will rebuild the stocker.
I have to put in some 3" wheel studs so I am safe and legal using those Weld wheels...Not looking forward to doing it.lol