Buying my 1st Fox 5.0

buy a kit for 50-100 bucks off of ebay, do it yourself with a 1/2 drill bit, drill and some basic hand tools. Not neccessary to weld them on a stock horsepower car.

is this the guide i should follow?

Wild Rides' Battle Boxes - How To - 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords Magazine

i'd probably get them welded. i'm not a half ass type of guy, i'd rather do it proper the first time. my dad is a welder btw :D

edit - just found a thread with a few people that bolted and they are dragging the cars. they also said welding would be a lot more work. so bolting looks like it should get the job done if thats the case lol, still researching.
 
What shop, in the Bay Area, did he work for? What's his name? I know most of the shop guys in the area.

I agree with the comments above...it sounds like you aren't getting a complete run down on the car and should be cautious. Be sure to get receipts...otherwise, I'd assume nothing has been done to it. It would also be worth taking this car to another shop for inspection.
 
What shop, in the Bay Area, did he work for? What's his name? I know most of the shop guys in the area.

I agree with the comments above...it sounds like you aren't getting a complete run down on the car and should be cautious. Be sure to get receipts...otherwise, I'd assume nothing has been done to it. It would also be worth taking this car to another shop for inspection.

his name is Vince or Vincent, it was a shop in Benicia or Vallejo - i think the place was named Chris' Engine - or some form of that in the name.

can you recommend a good place in the east bay? even if not for pre inspection but for future work i cant do myself. i'm in the 925 area.
 
Less snipy attitude and you'll get better responses
MUSTANG 5.0 NOTCH 5 SPEED
1989 Mustang 5.0 LX GT ENGINE
1989 MUSTANG 5.0
1989 mustang lx 119k original miles 2nd owner
1988 5.0 GT T-Tops
1988 ford mustang GT
All the same price range and much better starting point IMO
especially the last 2

what makes those last 2 so much better?

you REALLY took this ad serious???

has a cam and more if interested call #####

3n53m93p45W25U35X4aa67e94638656741470.jpg

the other was a slushbox t-top taking offers. t-tops might look cool but less rigid ftl.

the only 1 that looks better is the modded notch in placerville, but it also mentions nothing about chassis/suspension work. its more likely to need that attended to. more power + mods usually means driven harder.

the red LX with 119k also looks solid, i keep clicking that ad during my searches hoping it turned itself into a 5 speed for me :D

but almost all of that list were slushboxes :notnice:

my "snippy" attitude was in reply to yours :nice:

whats to say if i hadnt posted 1 of those links you just did in the first post that you wouldnt have said all the same things :shrug:

seems unjust to be set 1 way or the other about a car with such little information tho. most of those ads had less info than mine does, and some were extra poorly written.

anyways, i'm not here to get into it with people. i'm here to learn and become a part of this 5.0 community, eventually contributing back with knowledge and opinions of a passionate enthusiast.
 
here is your best bet for a 4k range car, personally i would do this one
Supercharged Mustang

WOW! now thats a find! i wonder what else it needs besides rings tho. either something else is wrong with it, or its fake. if it was closer it could be worth checking out, but 6 hours each way is too much. also its a bit more than i wanted and probably does need more than just rings. why would he invest all that, then run it rich to the point that it jacked something up, and then dump it on craigslist. something isnt right at all with that.


i was a little surprised by how clean this looks for a stockton car. even then, theres not enough info or detailed pics to guess what kind of condition it really is. stockton is 98% junk/abused cars. its also not worth the risk of going there to deal with it.

i appreciate the effort you put forth to put down the original car i posted, but i've been searching CL multiple times daily for the last 1-2 months.
 
WOW! now thats a find! i wonder what else it needs besides rings tho. either something else is wrong with it, or its fake. if it was closer it could be worth checking out, but 6 hours each way is too much. also its a bit more than i wanted and probably does need more than just rings. why would he invest all that, then run it rich to the point that it jacked something up, and then dump it on craigslist. something isnt right at all with that.



i was a little surprised by how clean this looks for a stockton car. even then, theres not enough info or detailed pics to guess what kind of condition it really is. stockton is 98% junk/abused cars. its also not worth the risk of going there to deal with it.

i appreciate the effort you put forth to put down the original car i posted, but i've been searching CL multiple times daily for the last 1-2 months.

Its been on Cl for a few months, but if you find a car you want you're gonna need to travel for it, i drove 8 hours to sac to get my car.

But you're right going with the car you found, its a much better choice than the ones i listed, cause you know a 5 sp swap would be UBER expensive :rolleyes:

Paint condition should your first concern, everything else is quick and simple.

But go for that car you first posted, should be a winner
 
WOW! now thats a find! i wonder what else it needs besides rings tho. either something else is wrong with it, or its fake. if it was closer it could be worth checking out, but 6 hours each way is too much. also its a bit more than i wanted and probably does need more than just rings. why would he invest all that, then run it rich to the point that it jacked something up, and then dump it on craigslist. something isnt right at all with that.



i was a little surprised by how clean this looks for a stockton car. even then, theres not enough info or detailed pics to guess what kind of condition it really is. stockton is 98% junk/abused cars. its also not worth the risk of going there to deal with it.

i appreciate the effort you put forth to put down the original car i posted, but i've been searching CL multiple times daily for the last 1-2 months.

hands down i would check these 2 out above the others. if they were in the midwest i'd be at their doorstep today. good finds Shaolin Crane!
 
Nice find on that blue notch in Eureka, Guy! I might have to go take a drive, now.

VanD, I've never heard of that shop. The internet is a great tool...by looking up the shop and reading the reviews, I can say that I'm not impressed with it, nor would I go as far as classifying it as an expensive performance shop...it sounds like a regular repair shop. I do know a Vince that works for a high performance shop in the Bay, but that's not his car.

As for shops to take the car to, I don't know of any in the 925. I've only ever used performance shops for their dyno facilities. The shop I'd recommend you go to is Advanced Engine Development (AED). They have a shop in San Jose, and one in Cameron Park. Another shop I've heard good things about is Nextgen Auto Sport in Hayward.
 
Nice find on that blue notch in Eureka, Guy! I might have to go take a drive, now.

VanD, I've never heard of that shop. The internet is a great tool...by looking up the shop and reading the reviews, I can say that I'm not impressed with it, nor would I go as far as classifying it as an expensive performance shop...it sounds like a regular repair shop. I do know a Vince that works for a high performance shop in the Bay, but that's not his car.

As for shops to take the car to, I don't know of any in the 925. I've only ever used performance shops for their dyno facilities. The shop I'd recommend you go to is Advanced Engine Development (AED). They have a shop in San Jose, and one in Cameron Park. Another shop I've heard good things about is Nextgen Auto Sport in Hayward.
Ive been looking at that notch for a while. Notches just arent my thing, figure even if it needed a full rebuild it would still be worth it. I would toss a moderate 347 stroker kit in it and call it a day. Make 500rwhp and wish i went with an aftermarket block ;)

CL is your friend OP but you're gonna need to go further than 5 minutes away to find your car.
 
Ive been looking at that notch for a while. Notches just arent my thing, figure even if it needed a full rebuild it would still be worth it. I would toss a moderate 347 stroker kit in it and call it a day. Make 500rwhp and wish i went with an aftermarket block ;)

CL is your friend OP but you're gonna need to go further than 5 minutes away to find your car.

Meh, they aren't my thing either, but the Bay Area guys LOVE them. If I were to buy it, I'd part out the major stuff, throw in a good stock long block, then sell it.
 
VanD, I know you're new here, so FYI, Shaolin Crane is a little hard to get along with until you get on his good side, haha.

Isn't that right, Guy? :D

Also, don't be afraid of a t-top car because you assume it will be flimsy. Be afraid of it because you'll never get the tops to seal out water quite right. Throw sub frame connectors at it, and flex will not be an issue. I have a set of MM SFCs on my t-top car, and I can put it on jack stands at 3 corners, and the forth won't sag even a half an inch. Solid, baby. Of course, I have a puddle on each front seat after I wash the car...
 
VanD, I know you're new here, so FYI, Shaolin Crane is a little hard to get along with until you get on his good side, haha.

Isn't that right, Guy? :D

Also, don't be afraid of a t-top car because you assume it will be flimsy. Be afraid of it because you'll never get the tops to seal out water quite right. Throw sub frame connectors at it, and flex will not be an issue. I have a set of MM SFCs on my t-top car, and I can put it on jack stands at 3 corners, and the forth won't sag even a half an inch. Solid, baby. Of course, I have a puddle on each front seat after I wash the car...

I'm an ass hole, never disputed that :D
 
But go for that car you first posted, should be a winner

let me get more info + receipts and take some in depth pictures before we declare it anything :D

VanD, I've never heard of that shop. The internet is a great tool...by looking up the shop and reading the reviews, I can say that I'm not impressed with it, nor would I go as far as classifying it as an expensive performance shop...it sounds like a regular repair shop. I do know a Vince that works for a high performance shop in the Bay, but that's not his car.

As for shops to take the car to, I don't know of any in the 925. I've only ever used performance shops for their dyno facilities. The shop I'd recommend you go to is Advanced Engine Development (AED). They have a shop in San Jose, and one in Cameron Park. Another shop I've heard good things about is Nextgen Auto Sport in Hayward.

Thank You for the Info! I'll see if I can find a quality shop near me, traffic is a bitch to Hayward and San Jose but if it must be done then I'll do it for the good of my car.

CL is your friend OP but you're gonna need to go further than 5 minutes away to find your car.

the distance isnt a problem if I was sure of the car. thats why i've been searching from Sac to San Diego. but i'm not gonna fly or drive to go tire kick a car, if I make that commitment I'd need to be sure enough about buying it.

Meh, they aren't my thing either, but the Bay Area guys LOVE them.

i like both :nice:

Also, don't be afraid of a t-top car because you assume it will be flimsy. Be afraid of it because you'll never get the tops to seal out water quite right. Throw sub frame connectors at it, and flex will not be an issue. I have a set of MM SFCs on my t-top car, and I can put it on jack stands at 3 corners, and the forth won't sag even a half an inch. Solid, baby. Of course, I have a puddle on each front seat after I wash the car...

good info thanks! is there a way to repair the leaks tho?




sidenote - my daily search turned up this car today :notnice:

1990 Mustang 5.0 GT

:eek:

the interior looks kinda cool, and the digital guages might be cool too. but ****, that poor car :nonono: