Cable clutch or Hydraulic?
- Thread starter steel1212
- Start date
Loup-garou
Founding Member
The cable is probably the easier to set up - and the cable can be shielded from header heat.
I'd actually prefer the hydraulic setup, but the aftermarket kits which use purpose-built components have one problem - they're not easy to repair in an emergency. If someone cooked up a kit which uses, say, the clutch master and slave cylinders from a Ford Ranger, that might be worth a look.
I'd actually prefer the hydraulic setup, but the aftermarket kits which use purpose-built components have one problem - they're not easy to repair in an emergency. If someone cooked up a kit which uses, say, the clutch master and slave cylinders from a Ford Ranger, that might be worth a look.
I'm about 200 miles on a cable clutch setup on my 66 w/T-5. In the past few day when I get into the car cold, the cable is stuck, I have to step on the pedal hard to break it loose. I think it will break soon. I'm running a Ford T-5 also in my 65 Cuda, and already started the install of the hydraulic clutch. I'm going to say, for the money, hydraulic is worth it. Going into the project I imagined it to be very intricate but now it is rather simple. Works just like brakes. I've already invested into the cable setup on the Stang. I will probably buy another cable now, and when I install it I'll run it through a section of rubber hose and metal pipe over that, to protect it from the headers. HYDRAULIC, save youself the trouble.
You don't need to go hydraulic. People have trouble with cables because they let them rest on a headder and GEESH....it melts!!! Surprised? Isolate the cable. Make small brackets to keep it off the exhaust and make a heat shield for it if necessary, that is all you need. There are many people using clutches with no problems because they planned ahead not to have those problems. Hydraulic clutches are TOO expensive and will leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere because you will not be able to get the parts or have the tools to tear the car down.
skywalker
Member
I'm with ronstang on this one. I have a cable clutch and I shielded the hell out of it. Voila, after couplel thousand miles w/ headers I've had no problems.
What I do like about hyd clutches, is that they get the engine bay a much cleaner appearance. Frankly though, I can do with it.
You could easily fab your own, but if you lack the tools to do so (like me) I recommend Modern-Driveline's cable kit.
What I do like about hyd clutches, is that they get the engine bay a much cleaner appearance. Frankly though, I can do with it.
You could easily fab your own, but if you lack the tools to do so (like me) I recommend Modern-Driveline's cable kit.
Both systems have their drawbacks, flip a coin and go with whichever you decide. Hydraulic systems can be prone to leaks, plus you can't easily adjust them, and yes, they do need adjusting sometimes. So do cable systems. And cable systems can be funky looking and hard to deal with header clearances.
skywalker
Member
My setup (linked above) uses a self adjusting hydraulic throw out bearing. It worked fine for a few thousand miles until I changed to a smaller master cylinder that moved the existing hydraulic line against the header. So I am now making new lines. If I had left the original clutch master cylinder it would still be going strong.
JMC makes a hydraulic kit that uses a slave cylinder instead of a hyd TO bearing. http://jmcmotorsports.com/clutchkits.shtml
JMC makes a hydraulic kit that uses a slave cylinder instead of a hyd TO bearing. http://jmcmotorsports.com/clutchkits.shtml
RajunCajun
New Member
- Nov 26, 2003
- 180
- 0
- 0
I think hes using one from http://www.mcleodind.com
They dont have a lot of info on them and I havent been able to find much info about it.
Im also interested in a Hyd. Throwout Bearing because of my motor header trans combo doesnt really allow for any room.
*edit* what the how the heck is my post before skywalkers since im responding to him
They dont have a lot of info on them and I havent been able to find much info about it.
Im also interested in a Hyd. Throwout Bearing because of my motor header trans combo doesnt really allow for any room.
*edit* what the how the heck is my post before skywalkers since im responding to him
skywalker
Member
I use the McLeod bolt on, self adjusting hyd. TO bearing assembly. You can find your specific part# here -> McLeod Bolt On Hyd TO Bearings
I use a Wilwood Master Cylinder. With a 3/4" bore master cylinder the hyd TO bearing only requires a 1" stroke of the master cylinder pushrod
I have my braided teflon inner hydraulic lines made at Baker Precision
I use a Wilwood Master Cylinder. With a 3/4" bore master cylinder the hyd TO bearing only requires a 1" stroke of the master cylinder pushrod
I have my braided teflon inner hydraulic lines made at Baker Precision
skywalker
Member
I knew is was from mcleod, I just wasn't sure what exactly he used.RajunCajun said:
I've been seeing that happen alot lately! I think there's a new version of vbulletin and it is having issues.
I'm also using the McCleod T/O bearing in my 89 Ranger with a Toploader 4 speed. The Ranger's M/C is a 7/8 bore ( there are also 3/4 bores available for the Ranger) The banjo fittings that the McCleod came with suck big time, they leaked after a month. I replaced them with AN style fittings. The AN adapter fittings came thru Summit Racing and are made by Aeroquip for brakes. The AN-4 lines were made up by the local parts house. This setup requires that the T/O bearing be installed first in the bell and the trans stabbed thru it. Not hard to do. I've had to adjust the bearing once for clutch wear after about a year of daily use. There is a narrow margin of adjustment in the way it works, the total travel isn't much, only about 1/2 inch. The other problems I've had with it stem from the firewall cracking and pushrod/pedal geometry in the Ranger. If I had used something like a Tremec or T5, I'd have gone with an external slave cylinder arrangement, they'd be a lot easier to adjust and fix leaks. But with the Topoader's external shifter arrangement and the Ranger's tight drive tunnel, make it impossible to fit an external slave.
D.Hearne said:
Yes, the first generation McLeod bearings had the crappy banjo fittings. The second generation have the AN swivels. Also, the bolt on TO bearings are self adjusting. Just make sure you measure correctly for the right fit. If you go the hyd to bearing route order direct from McLeod so you can get the proper one. If you get it from somewhere else you may need to send it to McLeod so they can swap the pistons. I describe how to measure on my website.
To spread the forces out I mounted the master cylinder using aluminum blocks on both sides of the firewall. This also made it easier to make it mount to the pedal.
BobV
20+ Year Stangneter 
I've got the JMC hydraulic slave setup. Easy install. I've put about 5000 miles on it this summer, no leaks, no problems, no adjustments required. TONS of room around the headers & exhaust. Very clean installation as far as engine compartment appearance.
I looked at the cable setups before I bought. The Tri-Y header tubes run right in front of the cable hole on the bellhousing. Looked like "trouble waiting to happen", IMO. Yeah, the JMC is about $400, but I'd much rather do it right and cry only once!!!
I looked at the cable setups before I bought. The Tri-Y header tubes run right in front of the cable hole on the bellhousing. Looked like "trouble waiting to happen", IMO. Yeah, the JMC is about $400, but I'd much rather do it right and cry only once!!!
skywalker
Member
Similar threads
