Calling all Mustang Gods!!!!! Please tell me this is a dream.

Kdubslugga

Active Member
Jun 7, 2003
1,515
3
38
Akron, OH
I posted a few days ago about how my Oil pressure dropped to 0 and it turned out to be the stock oil pump seized up and snapped the oil pump driveshaft. Well i tore the whole engine and tranny out to figure that out. So anyways after many hours later new oil pump and driveshaft were put in i fired her up tonight, oil pressure was right at 55 psi @ cold, and 25 ish at warm idle. I let the thing run for 30 min before driving i took it out and as soon as i got on her a little WHAM, no oil pressure again, came home took the dizzy off and the driveshaft is split in half AGAIN! What in the blue hell could cause this?? Is the motor shot? Bad luck and i got a bad oil pump? I need some serious suggestions here please!
 
you may want to check to see if the crankshaft is walking.what i mean is some times a crankshaft under load will move to far front to rear causing things to get in a bind which will cause other things to bind.weakest link goes.hip bone connected to the leg bone type of thing.also a friend of mine put a cam in his car crane 2030 i believe. as long as it was idleing it was fine but shortley after he took it out and got in it one time it did the same thing yours did.one other scenario would be the timing chain being worn. if the chain jumps a tooth from being worn loose when it reseats and it will it causes one hell of a problem on oilpump shaft.last but not least, if you bought it at autozone or advance auto or orieleys the pumps are remanufactured. i know this because i was a manager at a.z. for a long time and we were told which parts were reman, and you can usually tell by the 29.95 and lower price.when the products are reman they dont replace all the parts on the inside just the part that is broken. just thought i would give you some ideas.
 
one last thing. i have also seen and this actually happened on my factory stock nmra engine,the camshaft walked to the rear of the block and pushed the freeze plug out the back causing the oilpump shaft to break. yours could be walking a minor bit causing it to get in a bind under load but not at idle.i promise you all these scenarios are possible and i wouldnt give false info. now if you drove a camaro maybe........nah i like to fix problems not make them.
 
i know its a lot of work but there is three options that will rule out the cam walking.
1.pull the distributor back out and pay close attention to the teeth on the gear.check for any thing that looks out of the ordinary even a nick.
2.since you are obviously going to have to put another pump in,pay close attention to the oilpump pickup.i may even go ahead and put one in.
3.pull the cam. check everything.all lobes and ecpecially the teeth.

if all that seems fine i would get ready to pull the engine down.just curious do you have any oil leakage from front or rear mains at all?if so it may be the crank walking.this will require a rebuild anyway.go for the e 303. youll love it with the 4.10's and 1.7's.
 
if your going to put a blower on the car even at 9 lbs you'll want to rebuild for lower compression anyway.with the blower i would use anderson fords b-21 cam.one of my friends has a 93 cobra with a trim vortech and the b-21.it runs very well.drop your timing back to 14 deg btdc for now.16 is to much for street.
 
I just fixed all the leaks, haha, oil pan leaked like crazy and the front seal was bad to!! Im close to shutting it down for the season and saving for a 347. I dunno though, im so pissed right now it aint funny
 
Needless to say Im not to eager to tear out the motor AGAIN. Im convinced there is something wrong internally thats causing this. My engine does have close 150k on it, I know its time to replace but if I could only get a few more months out of her before winter. Honestly what are my chances of getting a bad oil pump?
 
When you pull the pump, open it up and look for small pieces of metal lodged between the gear teeth. There have been past posts where some small part like a piece of a broken snap ring made its way into the oil pump and made it seize up.
 
Kdubslugga said:
I posted a few days ago about how my Oil pressure dropped to 0 and it turned out to be the stock oil pump seized up and snapped the oil pump driveshaft. Well i tore the whole engine and tranny out to figure that out. So anyways after many hours later new oil pump and driveshaft were put in i fired her up tonight, oil pressure was right at 55 psi @ cold, and 25 ish at warm idle. I let the thing run for 30 min before driving i took it out and as soon as i got on her a little WHAM, no oil pressure again, came home took the dizzy off and the driveshaft is split in half AGAIN! What in the blue hell could cause this?? Is the motor shot? Bad luck and i got a bad oil pump? I need some serious suggestions here please!
dont feel bad about pulling the engine out for something stupid i once pulled a freshly installed(about3 months and 200 miles) engine because i heard something pop and it started running like it had a dead cylinder. we put the compression guage on the 8 th cylinder to find no comp. so we decided to blow air thru the spark plug hole and heard it in the valve cover. it turned out after i got it out on the stand that it was just a broke rocker.:bang: :owned:
 
i heard that sometimes with HIGH VOLUME oil pumps make more stress on shafts and gears. i am not saying this is your problem due to the first broken rod. cut open the filter and see if you find anything oit of the ordinary
 
jrichker said:
When you pull the pump, open it up and look for small pieces of metal lodged between the gear teeth. There have been past posts where some small part like a piece of a broken snap ring made its way into the oil pump and made it seize up.


+1

Did you open up the last pump to see if there was any trash inside of it? They usually don't lock up unless it sucks up something. Was there anything in the bottom of the pan? Metal, excess silicone, etc? Also take a good look at your cam gear and distributor gear for anything abnormal
 
Did some of this a long time ago.

Pull it and take the pan off. Take a close look at the oil pump pickup. At least older Fords, had the rear of the screen loose from the metal bottom of the pickup. If the screen plugs, suction lifts the screen and pulls in oil. It will also pull in trash that will jam the oil pump.

In my case it was pieces from valve stem seals.

Just clean the pickup into a pan and see what comes out.

Next guess after that is the cam walk thing, but your cam plate, under the cam gear should prevent that. You can check the clearance by installing the cam retainer plate on the cam, and then installing the cam gear, out of the engine, if needed to verify adequate clearance.
 
I checked the old pump "From the 1st break" I opened it up and there were only 2 tiny metal shavings in side, about the size of a grain of sand, im told this is normal and ok buy a mechanic, metal shavings have to be pretty big to jam a pump up, there where absolutley no shavings in the oil pan at all either. I guess im going to tear this one out and examine it Real good!!! The mechanic i talked to seemed very smart, and he told be never buy an oil pump that is a reman. He told me go to Summit and get a good one, not a full race pump but a higher volume pump with a hardened driveshaft
 
well there are mixxed feeling about those high volume pumps. people say they pump too much oil for the stock oil pan capacity. you have a mellings. that is a good brand and should be a new pump. it's not the pump, it's something else. what weight oil do you use.
 
Well Im getting a Standard Volume Ford Racing Oil Pump at summit with an ARP hardened driveshaft. If it breaks again i know its something more. And if it breaks its coming out and a 347 is going in plain and simple. Anyways i appreciate all the good tips and suggestions hopefully this works this time.
 
Ok well 2nd oil pump is now out and i inspected it and there was a metal chunk on the inside of the pump about the size of half a BB bullet. There is no way way wherever it came from could have come through the pickup screen i checked that out as well and all was fine. However, there are definetly some very very fine metal shavings at the bottom of the oil pan, what should i think of this??? Am i wasting my time reinstalling the old motor, or should all be ok if i use a good quality pump and driveshaft?? Should my motor be ok, from what im getting from most people is that it should be ok.