Calling all SSBC disk brake kit owners!

[reenmachine]

I've talked to a million different people and everyone agrees that a wheel spacer of 1" or less is perfectly fine on most cars. Some even say 1.5" is ok but I don't like going that wide. I agree that puting extra strain on the wheel bearing is not a good idea, but if it is such a small amount like 1/16" then I'm quite sure it is no big deal, especially since its only temporary.

There's a difference here between a spacer and what I call an adapter for clarity's sake.

A spacer is just that -- a simple spacer with holes in it the lugs go through. You may need to install longer lugs and it's generally considered acceptable safety-wise to go up to 3/8" in thickness.

An adapter is something that bolts down to your existing lugs with lug nuts and then has its own new set of lugs to fasten the wheel. A thickness of 1" is very common and perfectly safe and I've seen 1.5" ones as well.

Adapters are generally used to correct backspacing on a wide wheel made for a different application (e.g. a 17 x 8 w/5.72" BS late model Mustang wheel on an early model). In this application the overall load vector is in the same place relative to the spindle so there's no loading problem created.

 

[mikethebike]

I've talked to a million different people and everyone agrees that a wheel spacer of 1" or less is perfectly fine on most cars. Some even say 1.5" is ok but I don't like going that wide. I agree that puting extra strain on the wheel bearing is not a good idea, but if it is such a small amount like 1/16" then I'm quite sure it is no big deal, especially since its only temporary.

Well, after my son told me for about 5 years that said practice was safe...he had an awakening when his mechanical engineering professor (a PH'D engineer who for years was a nuclear weapons designer) showed the class the numbers for the increased stress on the lugs and the spindle when you move the wheel out by as little as .5" without changing the backspacing to put the load on the spindle at the proper location. Talk to Global-West about their 1 1/4" diameter rotor disc brake kit and how they designed it to put all loading where it should be.
You kids do what you want with your cars...but if your suspension fails and you are so unlucky as to hit a member of MY family....you will not live long enough to pay the law suit. Even if you live to be 200.
You need to do it right. Period.
The man need to buy the correct wheels.

 

[TC00GT]

is it rubbing the very front of the caliper (closest to the rotor hat)? I took a grinder to it to notch it slightly. there is a good amount of material left in this location.

Also, the SSBC conversion bracket I was sold was mis-machined and the caliper was not centered on the disc rotor surface. I added almost 1/16 f grade 8 washers to where the caliper bolts on to the bracket and it works great now. mount everything up and take measurements (with the pads out) of the caliper to the piston in this area to see if you need to move the calipers inward. I did

Yes it is rubbing slightly on the front of the caliper, near the rotor hat. It is NOT rubing on the top of the caliper (therefore the 14" diameter is not the issue.) I didn't think about spacing the caliper, I'll check that tonight. I will be getting new wheels, so I'll see if I have the same issue.

Don't worry folks, I won't be driving around with washers behind the studs, only pushing it in the driveway, so the blazing speed of 1'/sec shouldn't cause serious injury.

 

[mrmustangman357]

TC00, if you can space it enough that the pad still slides in OK, then you should be okay. The other side's pistons will take up the slack. Also, if it is a small interference, don't be afraid to grind a small notch in it and brush on some black paint. I had to use both techniques and it worked great.

BUT make sure to use RED loctite on the bolts. My car would have been done if the wheel locked up at speed!

 

[Rusty67]

The original bolts on the 4 piston calipers had holes in them for safety wire. At least I think the holes were for safety wire....

 

[TC00GT]

Huh, I don't remember seeing holes for safety wire, but I will go back and loctite everything. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Rusty67]

Huh, I don't remember seeing holes for safety wire, but I will go back and loctite everything. Thanks for the advice.

You may not have the origninal bolts or the SSBC kit may not come with original style bolts.

 

[hurt]

You kids do what you want with your cars...but if your suspension fails and you are so unlucky as to hit a member of MY family....you will not live long enough to pay the law suit. Even if you live to be 200.

Drama Queen

 

[mrmustangman357]

the bolts in my kit didnt have provisions for safety wire. I just tightened mine down without loctite, drove for 100 or so miles, then took everything apart and used red loctite on it, bolt by bolt. Its easier than you think. Also, it may be a good idea to check the bolts on your front suspension after every driving season to make sure everything stays kosher. And then you'd be good to go

 

[TC00GT]

Sounds like a good plan, especially since the entire front brake/suspension system is new. I've got 2 weeks to get the car on the road. My fiance and I want it on the road for our wedding. So wish me luck.

 

[Jester67]

The original bolts on the 4 piston calipers had holes in them for safety wire. At least I think the holes were for safety wire....

I did not know if that was original or not but when I bought my car it had safety wires on the original equipment calipers. A much better approach IMHO than red locktite as head is required to get that stuff to turn lose and you do not want to have to take a torch to your calipers to remove them.

 

[Blu-Steel]

Did you ever get the push rod out of the plunger? I had the same problem so I used a dremel cut off wheel and sliced through the old plunger very carefully. Since it was aluminum it was pretty easy. I didn't want to use the big hammer method for fear of breaking something.

 

[TC00GT]

Did you ever get the push rod out of the plunger? I had the same problem so I used a dremel cut off wheel and sliced through the old plunger very carefully. Since it was aluminum it was pretty easy. I didn't want to use the big hammer method for fear of breaking something.

Yes I did. What I did was clamp the end of the pushrod (where it mounts to the brake pedal) in a vise. I took a piece of plywood and cut a groove in it to slide over the pushrod. I put the plywood up against the plunger, and gave it one whack with a deadblow hammer, the plunger flew off like it was shot from a cannon, but it worked, with no damage to either piece. Worked like a charm.

 

[mikethebike]

Drama Queen

You're 'mad' vs. angry...well, that seeems appropriate. Angry being emotionaly upset and mad being mentally unbalanced.
Seriously though, I was attempting to make a point about doing the job with safety as your primary concern. You obviously didn't get it.
Modify your car, do it improperly, crash it, injure or kill some innocent person and the lawsuit brigade WILL bankrupt your ass.
You....or your parents if you are under 21 (depending upon your states laws) should give that very serious consideration. I do, with everything I do to the car.

Still 'MAD'?

 

[hurt]

I was attempting to make a point about doing the job with safety as your primary concern. You obviously didn't get it.

Still 'MAD'?

Yep, still pissed.

I and everyone else on here "got it". We didn't need to read your cry baby rant about suing someone for using products deemed safe by a manufacturer.

If someone modified their vehicle in a manner that they knew to be unsafe and that caused someone else injury then legal action should be taken. However, if a person uses a product in good faith and the manufacturer is to blame then sue the company that made it.

 

[mikethebike]

Yep, still pissed.

I and everyone else on here "got it". We didn't need to read your cry baby rant about suing someone for using products deemed safe by a manufacturer.

If someone modified their vehicle in a manner that they knew to be unsafe and that caused someone else injury then legal action should be taken. However, if a person uses a product in good faith and the manufacturer is to blame then sue the company that made it.

Still 'Pissed-off'? Well....Beats being pissed on. But here is something your mommy and daddy should know...ALL the hot-rod , go-fast parts you put on the car your daddy bought for you are labeled "OFF-ROAD use only"....why??? So they cannot be held liable if they break in use on the street and someone is killed or injured. Now, since YOU know so much....please...call a personal injury attorney and ask him.
So, go ahead and put the stuff on your car...just be forwarned, YOU...wait...your daddy will be held finacially responsible if those parts fail and are deemed the cause of the crash.

P.S.

the Air Force sucks...UDT-21 RULES.

 

[Rusty67]

Both of you please shut up. Settle this kind of BS with PMs. We don't all need to read it.

Your point about offroad use only is good, but companies also use that term so that they don't have to worry about issues such as CARB for emissions testing on their product. There is more then one reason they put that label on stuff.

 

[hurt]

Both of you please shut up. Settle this kind of BS with PMs. We don't all need to read it.

I believe discussing the use of aftermarket products on our vehicles that companies produce and the safety of them is relevant to our hobby and I further believe others would benefit by reading it.

I know the forums allow people to shoot off their mouth without consequences but my god, use some tact.


Mike – we’re done. I've said what I needed to and just because I'm not a seaman does not entitle you to speak badly about another branch of service. By the way - the AF has a higher cutoff score for entry - I've personally spoken with a Navy recuit that said he wanted to join the AF but didn't score high enough. Dumb-ass.:Zip2:

 

[mikethebike]

I believe discussing the use of aftermarket products on our vehicles that companies produce and the safety of them is relevant to our hobby and I further believe others would benefit by reading it.

I know the forums allow people to shoot off their mouth without consequences but my god, use some tact.


Mike – we’re done. I've said what I needed to and just because I'm not a seaman does not entitle you to speak badly about another branch of service. By the way - the AF has a higher cutoff score for entry - I've personally spoken with a Navy recuit that said he wanted to join the AF but didn't score high enough. Dumb-ass.:Zip2:

You're the one who started the personal bull****, son, all I'm doing is giving it back to you.
And the AF? This is what we said about it in my day:

"The Air Force is for guys who don't really want to be in the military."

 

[Steven Rupp]

Pull like hell or you can cut away (CAREFULLY) the retainer.. this will ruin the old MC but it works.

You can see how I did it here:
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0706phr_front_disc_brakes_install/