cam and spring q's

[IntenseBlue]

I just turned 17 and I'm on very tight budget. I'll be getting my crank and flywheel back from the machine shop by Thursday and I'll be ready to start putting the engine back together for the most part. I've got a set of 950-16 dual valve springs from Comp Cams that were given to me free of charge. They've got 130lbs seat pressure. They're rated up to .600" lift. On the box it says 1.450". What does this mean? What I need to know is IS THIS TOO MUCH PRESSURE FOR THE STOCK CAMSHAFT? I also need to know if I would benefit from advancing/retarding the camshaft on a stock headed engine. I've got a new Cloyes three-way timing set to make it easy.

I'll probably slightly port the heads. Will I benefit from this even using a stock camshaft? I'm pretty sure I would, but I'm not sure. As soon as I get my engine back together I'm going to get my front end aligned and get some new tires. Then I'm getting a Tweecer so I can eliminate my speed density problems. This will work won't it? The reason I'm not going to get a cam is that the guy I was going to get my mass air swap components from has lost touch with me and vice-versa.

:SNSign: Thank for your help guys....that's if I can get any.

 

[795.0]

The 1.45 should be referring to the diameter of the spring. The 130lb seat pressure .600 lift rating would be good if you ever plan to go with a more aggressive cam in the future. Maybe a little overkill for the stock cam in a daily driver, but I don't think you'll have to worry about valve float if you use them with the stock cam.

Advancing the cam helps low rpm power where retarding it helps with the top end. I would degree the cam when you install it. Some cams already have some advance/retard ground into them already.

For a budget build and a street motor, the stock cam is a nice piece. Search these forums for dyno info using the stock cam. You'll be suprised. You'll also find some good articles on porting your stock heads and intake on here as well.

 

[IntenseBlue]

The 1.45 should be referring to the diameter of the spring. The 130lb seat pressure .600 lift rating would be good if you ever plan to go with a more aggressive cam in the future. Maybe a little overkill for the stock cam in a daily driver, but I don't think you'll have to worry about valve float if you use them with the stock cam.

Advancing the cam helps low rpm power where retarding it helps with the top end. I would degree the cam when you install it. Some cams already have some advance/retard ground into them already.

For a budget build and a street motor, the stock cam is a nice piece. Search these forums for dyno info using the stock cam. You'll be suprised. You'll also find some good articles on porting your stock heads and intake on here as well.

http://www.armstrong.edu/ron/auto/e7.html This was a source I was looking at for head porting.


What I was mainly curious about with the springs is if they will hurt power due to the stiffness.

 

[IntenseBlue]

TTT for more opinions.

 

[IntenseBlue]

It appears no one else on this forum has any intentions on providing input on this subject. I figured I'd get better responses in a tech section.

 

[IntenseBlue]

TTT, does anyone know if these springs will hurt power production?

 

[IntenseBlue]

Nevermind.

 

[bluevenom867]

WTH??

Be patient,not everyone can post in your thread.

There better than old worn out stock springs.It wont hurt power production (should help).It will help with valve float,and of course let you run a larger cam later on.

:SNSign: