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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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Cam: hydraulic, solid, or roller?

  • Thread starter Thread starter streetstang67
  • Start date Start date Apr 30, 2005

streetstang67

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Mar 5, 2003
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Lexington, SC
Apr 30, 2005
#1
  • Apr 30, 2005
  • #1
I've decided on CompXE256 cam for my car, or something similar. I've been looking at hydrualic, but what about hydrualic roller? or solid? or solid roller?
What should I get, what are the pros/cons of them? Does one or another make more hp or torque.....??????
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
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Antelope Valley, SoCal
Apr 30, 2005
#2
  • Apr 30, 2005
  • #2
A hydraulic flat tappet will be the easiest since there is no conversion involved, but a hydraulic roller will have the broadest torque with at least the same power. A solid roller will deliver all the above plus more rev potential.

My recommendations for a street engine in order of preference:
1. Hydro flat
2. Hydro roller
3. Solid roller.
 

streetstang67

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Mar 5, 2003
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Lexington, SC
May 1, 2005
#3
  • May 1, 2005
  • #3
Would it be worth it to change to a roller setup including roller cam and lifter? I mean, its not cheap compared to non-roller parts, but what all would I gain with a roller valvetrain?
 
M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
Founding Member
Feb 26, 2002
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May 1, 2005
#4
  • May 1, 2005
  • #4
A roller conversion is quite expensive. Roller will allow faster opening of the valves, a more aggressive cam while maintaining good idle, less friction, and therefore more power. You will also have to change the distributor gear.
 

brianj5600

Active Member
Sep 19, 2003
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Middle TN
May 1, 2005
#5
  • May 1, 2005
  • #5
In the range of cam you are looking at IMO there is not alot to gain with anything more than a hyd flat. More rpms, more spring pressure, more lift etc, then there is a bigger difference.
 

streetstang67

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Mar 5, 2003
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Lexington, SC
May 1, 2005
#6
  • May 1, 2005
  • #6
So my factory valve springs should be alright with a hotter cam (CompXE256H)?
 
M

MitchGT

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Apr 1, 2005
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May 1, 2005
#7
  • May 1, 2005
  • #7
streetstang67 said:
So my factory valve springs should be alright with a hotter cam (CompXE256H)?
Click to expand...
If the springs are fairly fresh you could probably get away with it.I had an unknown cam in my 289 when I bought it, and it had over half an inch of lift. The car still idled smoothly at about 700 rpm with a 600 holley and long tube headers.Higher lift cams also benifit from good rocker arms too.
From what I've read, roller cams open the valves faster,which can give a slightly stronger vacuum signal to carb. This way you can run a bigger cam and still get the car to idle, and have a little more low end torque (as well as minimizing friction with rollers. the more spring tension, the more friction). Also the cam is at or around max lift longer, flowing more air than an identicle lift non-roller cam.If the two cams have the same duration and lift, the roller will still have alot more flow. I think they are worth it.
 

streetstang67

Member
Mar 5, 2003
573
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Lexington, SC
May 2, 2005
#8
  • May 2, 2005
  • #8
I know the XE256 is a small cam, will you be able to hear any difference at idle or any RPM range?
 

PoliceInterceptor

Keeper Of Automotive Oddities
Founding Member
Aug 5, 1999
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Live in GA, But could be any where really.
May 2, 2005
#9
  • May 2, 2005
  • #9
streetstang67 said:
I know the XE256 is a small cam, will you be able to hear any difference at idle or any RPM range?
Click to expand...

I suspect not. If anything it will be a change of tone, I don't think it will have any "cam" sound at idle.

For such a small cam, I agree that the step to roller isn't warrented.

:twocents:
 
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