Cam worth it?

[streetstang67]

I'm seriously considering getting a cam, probably the Comp Xtreme Energy 262. And I will most likely pay for it to be installed, prices are:
cam intall (includes carb tune and timing adjustments): $250-$350
To degree the cam: $50 an hour
My first question is, about how much hp will this put me too? And second, Is this a reasonable price?
Is it worth it?

 

[rbohm]

that is a good cam choice for a stong street engine.

 

[streetstang67]

Anybody know of a good site with pics and accurate info showing a cam change...I might do it myself if it doesn't seem too hard.

 

[69stanger]

check out this website

http://fordmuscle.com/archives/2002/03/clevelandcam/index.shtml

 

[D.Hearne]

Wow, your looking at $350 to install it, another $50 to degree it, plus the price of the cam, lifters, timing set, you're looking at $600 easily, for a gain of 30-40 hp? Better do it yourself. If you buy a matching set of the Comp Cams 262XE, the timing set and lifters, you can really skip the degreeing part. Otherwise, you're just looking at removing the intake, water pump, timing cover, fan, and radiator to access the cam. Not a difficult job. I'd upgrade to a better intake while you're at it. The performer is just an aluminum version of the factory cast iron intake.

 

[streetstang67]

check out this website

http://fordmuscle.com/archives/2002/03/clevelandcam/index.shtml

You have to have a subscription for the rest of that article

you can really skip the degreeing part

How important is that step? I want to do this right.

 

[D.Hearne]

I've built 10-20 motors and have degreed none of them, and all ran fine.If I was using components from several different manufacturers ( like cam of one brand and a timing set from another) then I'd consider it. But getting matched components from the same mfg. greatly reduces the chance that the cam timing will be off. This may happen in 1 in a 100 motors.

 

[DarkBuddha]

How important is that step? I want to do this right.

Degreeing cams used to be more important because the cam grinds that manufacturers made were less accurate than today's grinds. Degreeing ensured that the cam operated at the specs indicated on the spec card. It was/is important if you intend to advance or retard the cam for any reason, but if you're installing it "straight up", its probably not as necessary.

I think more of a concern my be piston to valve clearance issues related to the amount of lift the cam provides... be careful here, or the cost of this cam swap could end up being the cost of a new motor. And be cautious about doing this swap on an older motor (or even an older rebuild). Newer late model motors are better engineered and have better wear characteristics (with roller cams, better machining, bearing quality, quality oil options, etc.) making them more tollerant of a cam swap further into their life. Older motors can suffer with lousy tollerances, mediocre bearing life, etc., and doing a cam swap can shorten its life, kinda like the saying about "a candle that burns twice as bright lasts half as long".

You should definitely check (i.e. actually call and talk) with someone at the cam manufactuer. They should be able to answer any questions and reassure you on any concerns you might have. That is what they're there for...

One last thing... about the quote you provided... it seems reasonable considering the amount of work involved, but I also think this may be something you could do yourself and save a ton of cash... All it takes is a bit of courage and patience, and only a modicum of mechanical ability and tools. Break out the ratchet and go for it...

 

['69Stang]

The price being quoted is fair for the labour. Having done several cams, it is definitely a bit of work. Regarding piston to valve clearance, I wouldn't worry about that in the least unless you have pop-up pistons and Twisted Wedge heads, the cam duration numbers are way too small to have any concern. Don't bother ripping the heads off for that.