Cams and heads install now I'M FRUSTRATED, HELP ME!!! please.....

kpack5982

Yeah, it was pretty stiff, but eventually a buddy
Jul 13, 2005
325
1
19
Granger, IA
I was planning to install a cam and heads last weekend and now it's an ongoing project. I finally got it back together to have it not start up.

The problem is when it cranks over it sounds like air is being forced out or a backfire of air is coming out, over on the passenger side. I believe that I have all the rockers down right and have the timing chain to the cam set as dot to dot.

I'm wondering if maybe the distributor is off 180 degrees, but I don't think so. But how do I go about checking? For instance when the pointer under the cap is pointing at a cylinder, where should the rockers be at, closed? Open? Any help or suggestions are welcome, I'm just exhausted with this and want it to start up :nice:
 
When the rotor is pointing at a particular cylinder in the firing order, both valves for that cylinder should be closed. The intake valve is closing at the same time the piston is coming up the cylinder on the compression stroke, so if you're turning the motor over on the compression stroke by hand watching the rockers/valve springs, don't be surprised to see the exhaust valve fully closed and the intake valve closing while the piston is coming up on that stroke. When the spark plug fires, aka rotor pointed at x cylinder, both valves should be seated.
 
Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole, crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer on the engine block.

The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.

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Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing. If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that if it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range.

At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light and start the engine. Set the timing where your car runs best. Don't forget to disconnect the SPOUT jumper connector when you set the timing, and plug it back in when you finish.
 
So the dilemna continues... I restabbed the distributor and it was off a tooth I think, but when I try to fire up the car I have an after fire. It just doesn't want to crank over. Any other suggestions?

Mechanically everything is put back together correct I believe, but is there something I should check? I mean I aligned the cam dot to dot. The timing cover is on correctly, had to put that on twice because I must not have torqued it down and had a coolant leak in the passage running though it :bang: . So I think I'm trying to narrow it down to something electrical. I smell fuel when I pull the plugs so fuel is getting to the engine. The car started fine before the cam/head install too. Did taking the distributor out do something? I really don't know here! I don't wanna give up, but geez, I've taken breaks and it is so unsatisfactory having everything back together and things not runnin right:nonono:
 
kpack: Don't take this wrong, but have you ever done something like this before?

As for your istructions about setting the timing. He was 9/10th's rights but let me just make sure you know this. It's just not "turning the motor over until you feel compression on #1 cyl and that will be TDC."

It's make sure you bring #1 up in the compression stroke and BRING THE PISTON TO TOP DEAD CENTER. Next, make sure that in relation to being on TDC that the pointer on your balancer is on 0 degrees.

Question: Did you bring #1 to TDC before you put on the timing chain on???? Something in my gut tells me you screwed something up when putting the motor back together.
 
well i sure didn't hurry through anything, I've been working on it taking my time putting everything back together right. I'm sure the that I put the timing chain on right. The sprocket that went on the crank shaft was with the groove on it straight up, where I aligned the timing sprocket to the dot, where I then put the sprocket on the cam facing the crankshaft sprocket dot to dot. I don't think I am missing anything there. If I am let me know. As far as the distributor I was thinking about retarding and advancing it to see if it would start somewhere and go from there.

After working on it all week, hitting a snag I've "slept on it" quite a few times. A new outlook in the morning sure is pleasant but this little b**** of a snag is just frustrating. :bang:

Oh yeah I know the engine was at tdc because when I was putting the timing chain on, I had the heads off, so I could see the #1 piston
 
Liek posted before there are different top dead centers with a 4 stroke. You want to be TDC on the compression stroke. I have been in your shoes sir. Because your engine isn't cranking now makes me believe the dizzy is incorrectly installed. Pull your number 1 spark plug. In fact I usally pull them all so i can spin the engine by hand with a ratchet on the crank bolt. While cranking it have a friend or reach with your finger and put it over the #1 cylinder spark plug hole. While you spin the engine you will eventally feel air rushing out of the hole. I then put a piece of wire or a pencil down the hole (don't drop it in) and continue to crank engine till it is at the top. Then stabb the dizzy. The rotor should be pointing close to 1 o'clock. Then it should be set.
 
Thanks for all the help guys :hail2: I will check the distributor to make sure everything is right again and check the plug wires. Im sure the wires are good, but I have a sneaky suspicion that the demon lies in the ignition somewhere.
 
Sure does sound like a "static timing" issue. If that isn't the problem, then I would have to ask how radical of a cam did you put in? On the bigger race cams you will have to degree it in to get the proper cam/valve timing set.
 
Liek posted before there are different top dead centers with a 4 stroke. You want to be TDC on the compression stroke. I have been in your shoes sir. Because your engine isn't cranking now makes me believe the dizzy is incorrectly installed. Pull your number 1 spark plug. In fact I usally pull them all so i can spin the engine by hand with a ratchet on the crank bolt. While cranking it have a friend or reach with your finger and put it over the #1 cylinder spark plug hole. While you spin the engine you will eventally feel air rushing out of the hole. I then put a piece of wire or a pencil down the hole (don't drop it in) and continue to crank engine till it is at the top. Then stabb the dizzy. The rotor should be pointing close to 1 o'clock. Then it should be set.

That's almost exactly whatI told him...
 
when I looked through this post I didnt see any where that you said you verified that you had spark. When doing a job like that it is easy for wires to get bumped and pulled on. I mean if you dont have spark everthing else is wated time. If you do have spark make sure your plug wires are run correctly. Also I have an easy way to find TDC on the compression stoke. I have a small piece of hollow pipe threaded to match the sparck plug threads. On the other end I put a small balloon on. When the balloon fills you are on the compression stroke. Continue to turn the motor over by hand. When the ballon stops expanding in size watch closely for when it starts to decrease in size. Once it starts stop turning the crank and back it up slightly till the ballon is back to its largest size. This is TDC on the compression stroke. From that point on follow what J.Richer said and all should be good. I saw this tip in Hot Rod mag. and have used more than once to help out friends with the same problems your having. Good luck.