Camshaft Help...

[zZsKyZz]

When I was planning my motor build I originally wanted to stick with a Steeda #19 camshaft because it would get along with our stupid ECUs... But the more I think about it, either way I'm gunna have to buy a Tweecer and toy with it if I want to get it to work properly. So here's what my setup will be:

88 5.0 GT Block
Pro. Prod. Upper/Lower intake
GT40/GT40p Heads port matched to the intake manifold and gasket ported
30lb injectors
70mm Throttle body
100-150 shot of dry nitrous from ZEX
And the rest of the stuff in my sig.

What cam do you guys suggest? Are the ford letter cams really that bad or should I stick with the steeda cam or the crane 2031? I wanna get as much as I can outta this lil' 302 while sticking to a budget.

 

[BlackVert]

is it primarily a race car or a daily driver?

 

[99FiveOh]

Your car idles ok with that cam? I went on the Steeda website and they have no specs on it. And they say it takes a "Qualified Technician" to install.. funny...

Why don't you try that cam and see what happens?

 

[legalize420]

there is nothing wrong with the letter cams. i am happy with mine. the ilde is perfect. the only problem i have is it acts up a little bit when you start it when hot. it surges for a couple seconds but then settles.

 

[20new5.0]

what are the specs on that cam, 30lbs injectors seem a little big for your setup unless your going a bigger cam?

P.S. I have many friends running letter cams and they love them. They do ocansionally surge when there running hot though.

 

[zZsKyZz]

It's a car I drive in the summer as a daily driver... In the winter I drive my beater.

 

[zZsKyZz]

what are the specs on that cam, 30lbs injectors seem a little big for your setup unless your going a bigger cam?

The reason I'm going for the 30lbs is because I'm scared of running lean when I hit the nitrous.

Btw, Foamy rocks.

 

[reddy351]

Subscribing! I have almost all of the same parameters. (Even the 'winter beater' one!) What would a custom cam manufacturer (Ed Curtis?) charge to come up with an "optimum" cam? I was considering that option. $200-$300? How much flexibility is there with custom cam design? Do they ask a million questions to come up with exactly what you need or just line you up with a "pretty good" cam for your combo?

 

[gmkillr]

Take 20-30 minutes & talk to Jay Allen, & he will get you the best matched cam for your combo. www.camshaftinnovations.com

 

[zZsKyZz]

Take 20-30 minutes & talk to Jay Allen, & he will get you the best matched cam for your combo. www.camshaftinnovations.com

I'd rather not get a custom ground cam due to me being on a budget... I'm looking for something under $200.

 

[BlackVert]

i think under $200, your options are pretty limited. the tfs stage2 is $160 tho on summit. it is probably pretty streetable

 

[JJ95GTID]

I am seriously considering the FRPP 'F' cam. 114* LSA and .512" lift I/E with 1.6:1 rockers and 226* duration I/E. Should work well with original Ford intakes and heads and the 94/95 EEC. There are better cams out there for sure. But, for $180 new I doubt you will find a better cam.

FYI--For those looking up this cam on SummitRacing the LSA spec is WRONG on the website.

 

[wytstang]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford...ItemQQcategoryZ33614QQihZ019QQitemZ8071749845
This is the old Wolverine 1190 cam (now made under Speedpro) not a big power maker but it's duration gives you almost no worries of piston to valve clearance issues. Giving you a chance to mill the heads to gain compression power instead. When you mill the "V" becomes smaller calling for shorter pushrod and angle milling the lower intake to match the ports. Good street cam and you don't have to mill anything if you don't want to.

 

[reddy351]

$450 for a cam. Ouch. I was kinda planning $300, so it's not too much more. I guess the cam choice is not a place to skimp. When you do this, you had better make sure that your combo is not going to "grow" in the future.

Maybe I'll spend the $50 and see what Jay recommends for an off-the-shelf cam, instead.

 

[final5-0]

When I was planning my motor build I originally wanted to stick with a Steeda #19 camshaft because it would get along with our stupid ECUs... But the more I think about it, either way I'm gunna have to buy a Tweecer and toy with it if I want to get it to work properly. So here's what my setup will be:

88 5.0 GT Block
Pro. Prod. Upper/Lower intake
GT40/GT40p Heads port matched to the intake manifold and gasket ported
30lb injectors
70mm Throttle body
100-150 shot of dry nitrous from ZEX
And the rest of the stuff in my sig.

What cam do you guys suggest? Are the ford letter cams really that bad or should I stick with the steeda cam or the crane 2031? I wanna get as much as I can outta this lil' 302 while sticking to a budget.

You see my choice of cam
soooooo
I don't think I'd be a lot of help with your choice of cam
but
I have learned a few things about
What ....... they ....... say .... about narrow lobe center cams
and
How pcm access can make that info ... not valid in all cases

You use the word budget
and
You talk about self tuning

Thats kinda funny as I've not seen any low cost way to do it

You will not be able to really get ... down and dirty ... in self tuning
without a wideband.

Just wanted you to know that ... right up front
and
You don't necessarily have to be afraid of a low lsa cam
IF
You Tweecer tune

At least ... It worked for me ... that is

Grady

 

[blksn955.o]

the 2031 cam is used more as a blower cam.

The iron factory heads (even ported) will prob. still like a split patt. cam that favors the exh. side. Going with that the letter cams are out.

From the reading/asking/searching I had done in regards to my stock gt40's the TFS1 came to be a good choice as to what they would like (this was at least 3-4yrs ago), I am sure there are more cams out there now that also fit this bill...I wanna say comp XE/XR? cams has one that is well suited to gt40 heads. I asked on hardcore about a year or two ago about adding 1.7rr over the 1.6's with the ported heads and TFS1 cam. The answer I got (Jay A. replied) was the added lift might help, but if any gain was to be had it would be from the speeding up of the valve action from the added ratio in the mid lift area.

With a tweecer you can really get it to work with any cam...so just focus and find out what numbers whould be best for the port work done.

1. do you know who ported the heads? ask them.

2. is there any data you can get/ask/find on your heads or VERY VERY sim. ones...like if an online guide was used what do they "suggest" are the gains?

3. Ask around as to what cam #'s to look for with X numbers from heads.

Find a cam that is close or as close to what is recomended that is in your price range.